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Published: April 21st 2012
Yes, I was high not only because almost all of Tibet is above 3 500m and most often I felt extremely light-headed but on a natural high admiring this land of great beauty, of vast landscapes, sundrenched peaks, high altitude desert, densely forested gorges, brilliant skies, and crystal clean green rivers. Tibet, the “forbidden land” or the “roof of the world” is protected by the great Himalayan chain in the south and west, and even more inhospitable mountains to the north and east. It is hauntingly bleak and mysterious and has peaked (pardon the pun) the interest of so many outsiders for centuries. It is only in the last twenty years that more than a handful of foreign travelers have finally explored this sacred land. Although there are now frequent visitors to Tibet the allure is still there. The remoteness, the inaccessibility, the banning of freedom of political expression and independence and photos of the Dalai Lama were all reasons that lured me to this land of so many “forbiddens”.
Tibet is currently an autonomous region of the People’s Republic of China, situated west of China proper and covers 1 225 000 square miles. It is mostly a high plateau
and wilderness of mountains, little of which is below 3 000m. The heartbeat of Tibet is its religion which influences almost the entire way of life. The religion is a highly developed form of Buddhism which was introduced from India and evolved from the traditional Bon religion. The focal point of all communities was the monastery and this traditional way of life was devastated by the annexation of Tibet by China in 1959, and the departure of the Dalai Lama. The Cultural Revolution and the modernization of Tibet have resulted in the dismantling of the religious institutions such as monasteries and religious schools. Fortunately, centuries of tradition cannot be changed in a few years, and even after years of the Chinese trying to impose communism, and the terrible effects of the Cultural Revolution, the traditional way of life has somehow managed to endure. Political expression is kept strictly in check by the Chinese authorities as we experienced the endless checkpoints along our daily travels. Tibet guidebooks, pictures of the Dalai Lama, any “Free Tibet” paraphernalia, photos of the military and even “political talk” are strictly forbidden. Our tour leader seriously warned us to be very careful to follow these rules
as failure to abide by these guidelines would result in the “deportation” and “blacklisting” not only the guilty tourist but the whole group that travels under the same special Visa. We were even warned not to write or say anything disparaging in our emails and during our phone calls as the “authorities” were surely watching and listening.
The Chinese influence is evident in the “new” infrastructure and architecture in the “new” cities. There has been considerable land reform and an increase in crop development. The Chinese government has developed hydroelectric and geothermal plants that are not always environmentally sound and has begun the mining of rich minerals much to the devastation of the natural landscape. Many believe that China annexed Tibet simply because it is rich in mineral resources.
Before choosing to visit Tibet, I asked myself whether it was justifiable for me to visit an occupied country. In the Lonely Planet, Tibet edition, the Dalai Lama, His Holiness himself has written a forward encouraging people to visit his homeland. By visiting Tibet, the people do not become isolated and they view the tourists as a positive influence.
The journey into Tibet began with a short flight
from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Upon arrival we transferred to a small coach and drove for approximately 100km to Tsedang (3 400m) to visit Yumbu Lakhang, the oldest building in Tibet, a beautiful castle-like monastery that is perched high on a ridge and overlooks a fertile valley below. The next day we were supposed to take a ferry across the river to Samye monastery on the north bank however the water level was too low and we ended up taking the long way round by bus instead. Samye Monastery is Tibet’s very first founded in Trisong Detsen in 779 A.D. This building was damaged substantially during the Cultural Revolution and although it has been restored it is not as fine as the original.
The next two days were spent in Lhasa which is the religious, cultural and economic centre of Tibet. Lhasa is home to the infamous Potala Palace, the winter home of the Dalai Lama until 1959. During the Cultural Revolution, Potala Palace was used as a kitchen for the military but has since thankfully been restored. We visited the Palace by day when hundreds had lined up to enter. All tourists now have a one hour time limit
to view and visit the palace restrictions which were imposed since 2006 due to the increasing number of tourists. The highlight however for me was the unknown Potala Palace, the Palace by night. It appears so postcard picture perfect at night time that it doesn’t even seem real. It truly appears otherworldly as the photos will prove. However the most sacred temple in Lhasa is the Jokhang, where Buddhists come from all over Tibet to visit and pray in the spiritual heart of the country. The most holy statue in Tibet is the the Jowo Shakyamuni which is housed here. Pilgrims are seen prostrating outside the temple and en route to the temple. Many make the journey prostrating themselves once in a lifetime. These pilgrims are supported along the way by other fellow Tibetans by offerings of money and food. Each morning, the faithful make their rounds, always clockwise, as part of the Morning Prayer ritual and always under the watchful eye of the military. The military and police in Lhasa are at every corner. Most Tibetans go about their daily business ignoring this ever present occupation but tourists must be extra careful to never photograph them otherwise it could
lead to serious repercussions. We stayed in the Tibetan quarter of Lhasa Bharkor which is probably one of the few areas in the country that reflect the traditional way of Tibetan life.
After Lhasa, we climbed steadily to reach Gyantse. We drove to Kamba La (4 794m) which is recognized as the traditional divide between the front and back of Tibet. At this pass, there was a beautiful panoramic view of the Yarlung Tsangpo behind us and the stunning scorpion-shaped turquoise lake of Yamdrok Tso and the peaks along Tibet’s southern border. After this pass following the shore of the lake, we ascended once again to 5 010m to the Karo La pass which is close to a hanging glacier. Here unfortunately, we were basically assaulted by “locals” to pay 500 yuan to have the privilege to take a photo of this glacier. Needless to say, this stop unfortunately was not made memorable by the natural beauty but by the harassment of the locals. We then climbed to our third pass of the day, the Simi La, before heading down to the town of Gyantse. This town used to be an important trading crossroads and market town. Overlooking the
town is a great fortress that was captured and then destroyed by the British during their incursion into Tibet in the early years of the last century. Instead of the fort, we visited the Pelke Chode Monastery and the Kumbum Stupa. The stupa is believed to be one of the finest in Tibet filled with innumerable depictions of Buddha. From Gyantse we headed for Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest town at 3 900m via low hills and a landscape of fields. The town has many traditional low ceiling mud brick homes but now ugly modern Chinese buildings seem to predominate the town. Here we visited the Tashillunpo monastery, the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama, and one of the great centres of Tibetan Buddhism. This building was basically left untouched during the Cultural Revolution unlike many other sacred places. This temple houses the giant statue of Maitreya Buddha that contains 280kg of gold not only was the amount of gold used impressive but also the sheer size of it.
We traveled along the Friendship Highway for a while and then went off road for about four hours in order to reach Rongbuk. This road was resurfaced for the 2008 Olympics
so it was “easier” to drive. There were however many difficult sections but the scenery well made up for the bumpy road. We climbed yet another pass, the Pang La at 5 120m, from where we caught some glimpses of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Gyachung Kang and Makalu. We stayed near a monastery at 4 900m. In the afternoon we walked to Everest t Base Camp where we saw the North Face of Everest and a memorial to Mallory and Irvine where they were last seen en route to climb Everest in 1924. The ascent from the Tibetan side is apparently more difficult than the Nepali side. There were apparently three different expeditions at Base Camp two Chinese and one Russian. As per usual, our entry to Base Camp was under strict surveillance by authorities and we were not to take photos of any military compound or place any flags at the sight of political nature only prayer flags. This is where I decided to set my prayer flags and it is here that I prayed for many of my friends too. Our prayers are blowing in the wind at Everest Base Camp! We hiked back to our hotel which
took about two hours. I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to do this hike because I was feeling so poorly from a wicked cold and the fact that I hadn’t slept much at all of the last couple of nights. But somehow I found the strength and managed a lovely hike back to our hotel. ..Inshallah. This was the coldest night and most miserable night I have ever experienced. There was no heating whatsoever in the rooms only a bed and lots of blankets. Also due to the altitude it is virtually impossible to sleep as you awake every half hour to one hour with a headache and you experience some of the most vivid and wild dreams imaginable. I could no longer bear being in bed and got up at 5am only to check my thermometer and see that the room temperature was 0C. OMG! Yes, it was frigid!
After Everest Base Camp, one of the highlights of the trip we began our return to Nepal. Although long and difficult, this drive was one of the most spectacularly scenic drives I have ever been on. The Himalayas were still in sight in the south as we
crossed barren plains. As Everest receded from view, we were rewarded with more panoramic views this time of Shishpaangma as we dropped into a gorge until we arrived to Zhangmu, the last town in Tibet. From Zhangmu, we headed for the border crossing where all of our bags were to be searched. I had questionable photos taken in Dharamsala of the Panchen Lama which were very political and controversial in nature of which my tour leader was really concerned. I ended up deleting these photos so that in the event of my camera being scrutinized more closely I would not be blacklisted nor would it pose any concern to my fellow travelers. Of course, we arrived early enough at the border crossing to be the first group to be inspected and sure enough I was the only member of my group to have my camera searched. The customs officer said, “nice photos” and I said, “nice country”. He answered, “Tibet is not a country!” Yes, this is true. Tibet is more than a country. Tibet is pure religion, stark and contrastingly beautiful both in physical landscape and spirit. It is strength and passion, harsh and loving and Tibet although occupied
by the Chinese in many ways is still free! Yes, I was high not only because almost all of Tibet is above 3 500m and most often I felt extremely light-headed but on a natural high admiring this land of great beauty, of vast landscapes, sundrenched peaks, high altitude desert, densely forested gorges, brilliant skies, and crystal clean green rivers. Tibet, the “forbidden land” or the “roof of the world” is protected by the great Himalayan chain in the south and west, and even more inhospitable mountains to the north and east. It is hauntingly bleak and mysterious and has peaked (pardon the pun) the interest of so many outsiders for centuries. It is only in the last twenty years that more than a handful of foreign travelers have finally explored this sacred land. Although there are now frequent visitors to Tibet the allure is still there. The remoteness, the inaccessibility, the banning of freedom of political expression and independence and photos of the Dalai Lama were all reasons that lured me to this land of so many “forbiddens”.
Tibet is currently an autonomous region of the People’s Republic of China, situated west of China proper and covers 1
225 000 square miles. It is mostly a high plateau and wilderness of mountains, little of which is below 3 000m. The heartbeat of Tibet is its religion which influences almost the entire way of life. The religion is a highly developed form of Buddhism which was introduced from India and evolved from the traditional Bon religion. The focal point of all communities was the monastery and this traditional way of life was devastated by the annexation of Tibet by China in 1959, and the departure of the Dalai Lama. The Cultural Revolution and the modernization of Tibet have resulted in the dismantling of the religious institutions such as monasteries and religious schools. Fortunately, centuries of tradition cannot be changed in a few years, and even after years of the Chinese trying to impose communism, and the terrible effects of the Cultural Revolution, the traditional way of life has somehow managed to endure. Political expression is kept strictly in check by the Chinese authorities as we experienced the endless checkpoints along our daily travels. Tibet guidebooks, pictures of the Dalai Lama, any “Free Tibet” paraphernalia, photos of the military and even “political talk” are strictly forbidden. Our tour leader seriously
warned us to be very careful to follow these rules as failure to abide by these guidelines would result in the “deportation” and “blacklisting” not only the guilty tourist but the whole group that travels under the same special Visa. We were even warned not to write or say anything disparaging in our emails and during our phone calls as the “authorities” were surely watching and listening.
The Chinese influence is evident in the “new” infrastructure and architecture in the “new” cities. There has been considerable land reform and an increase in crop development. The Chinese government has developed hydroelectric and geothermal plants that are not always environmentally sound and has begun the mining of rich minerals much to the devastation of the natural landscape. Many believe that China annexed Tibet simply because it is rich in mineral resources.
Before choosing to visit Tibet, I asked myself whether it was justifiable for me to visit an occupied country. In the Lonely Planet, Tibet edition, the Dalai Lama, His Holiness himself has written a forward encouraging people to visit his homeland. By visiting Tibet, the people do not become isolated and they view the tourists as a positive influence.
The journey into Tibet began with a short flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Upon arrival we transferred to a small coach and drove for approximately 100km to Tsedang (3 400m) to visit Yumbu Lakhang, the oldest building in Tibet, a beautiful castle-like monastery that is perched high on a ridge and overlooks a fertile valley below. The next day we were supposed to take a ferry across the river to Samye monastery on the north bank however the water level was too low and we ended up taking the long way round by bus instead. Samye Monastery is Tibet’s very first founded in Trisong Detsen in 779 A.D. This building was damaged substantially during the Cultural Revolution and although it has been restored it is not as fine as the original.
The next two days were spent in Lhasa which is the religious, cultural and economic centre of Tibet. Lhasa is home to the infamous Potala Palace, the winter home of the Dalai Lama until 1959. During the Cultural Revolution, Potala Palace was used as a kitchen for the military but has since thankfully been restored. We visited the Palace by day when hundreds had lined up to
enter. All tourists now have a one hour time limit to view and visit the palace restrictions which were imposed since 2006 due to the increasing number of tourists. The highlight however for me was the unknown Potala Palace, the Palace by night. It appears so postcard picture perfect at night time that it doesn’t even seem real. It truly appears otherworldly as the photos will prove. However the most sacred temple in Lhasa is the Jokhang, where Buddhists come from all over Tibet to visit and pray in the spiritual heart of the country. The most holy statue in Tibet is the the Jowo Shakyamuni which is housed here. Pilgrims are seen prostrating outside the temple and en route to the temple. Many make the journey prostrating themselves once in a lifetime. These pilgrims are supported along the way by other fellow Tibetans by offerings of money and food. Each morning, the faithful make their rounds, always clockwise, as part of the Morning Prayer ritual and always under the watchful eye of the military. The military and police in Lhasa are at every corner. Most Tibetans go about their daily business ignoring this ever present occupation but tourists must
be extra careful to never photograph them otherwise it could lead to serious repercussions. We stayed in the Tibetan quarter of Lhasa Bharkor which is probably one of the few areas in the country that reflect the traditional way of Tibetan life.
After Lhasa, we climbed steadily to reach Gyantse. We drove to Kamba La (4 794m) which is recognized as the traditional divide between the front and back of Tibet. At this pass, there was a beautiful panoramic view of the Yarlung Tsangpo behind us and the stunning scorpion-shaped turquoise lake of Yamdrok Tso and the peaks along Tibet’s southern border. After this pass following the shore of the lake, we ascended once again to 5 010m to the Karo La pass which is close to a hanging glacier. Here unfortunately, we were basically assaulted by “locals” to pay 500 yuan to have the privilege to take a photo of this glacier. Needless to say, this stop unfortunately was not made memorable by the natural beauty but by the harassment of the locals. We then climbed to our third pass of the day, the Simi La, before heading down to the town of Gyantse. This town used to
be an important trading crossroads and market town. Overlooking the town is a great fortress that was captured and then destroyed by the British during their incursion into Tibet in the early years of the last century. Instead of the fort, we visited the Pelke Chode Monastery and the Kumbum Stupa. The stupa is believed to be one of the finest in Tibet filled with innumerable depictions of Buddha. From Gyantse we headed for Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest town at 3 900m via low hills and a landscape of fields. The town has many traditional low ceiling mud brick homes but now ugly modern Chinese buildings seem to predominate the town. Here we visited the Tashillunpo monastery, the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama, and one of the great centres of Tibetan Buddhism. This building was basically left untouched during the Cultural Revolution unlike many other sacred places. This temple houses the giant statue of Maitreya Buddha that contains 280kg of gold not only was the amount of gold used impressive but also the sheer size of it.
We traveled along the Friendship Highway for a while and then went off road for about four hours in order to
reach Rongbuk. This road was resurfaced for the 2008 Olympics so it was “easier” to drive. There were however many difficult sections but the scenery well made up for the bumpy road. We climbed yet another pass, the Pang La at 5 120m, from where we caught some glimpses of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Gyachung Kang and Makalu. We stayed near a monastery at 4 900m. In the afternoon we walked to Everest t Base Camp where we saw the North Face of Everest and a memorial to Mallory and Irvine where they were last seen en route to climb Everest in 1924. The ascent from the Tibetan side is apparently more difficult than the Nepali side. There were apparently three different expeditions at Base Camp two Chinese and one Russian. As per usual, our entry to Base Camp was under strict surveillance by authorities and we were not to take photos of any military compound or place any flags at the sight of political nature only prayer flags. This is where I decided to set my prayer flags and it is here that I prayed for many of my friends too. Our prayers are blowing in the wind at
Everest Base Camp! We hiked back to our hotel which took about two hours. I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to do this hike because I was feeling so poorly from a wicked cold and the fact that I hadn’t slept much at all of the last couple of nights. But somehow I found the strength and managed a lovely hike back to our hotel. ..Inshallah. This was the coldest night and most miserable night I have ever experienced. There was no heating whatsoever in the rooms only a bed and lots of blankets. Also due to the altitude it is virtually impossible to sleep as you awake every half hour to one hour with a headache and you experience some of the most vivid and wild dreams imaginable. I could no longer bear being in bed and got up at 5am only to check my thermometer and see that the room temperature was 0C. OMG! Yes, it was frigid!
After Everest Base Camp, one of the highlights of the trip we began our return to Nepal. Although long and difficult, this drive was one of the most spectacularly scenic drives I have ever been on. The
Himalayas were still in sight in the south as we crossed barren plains. As Everest receded from view, we were rewarded with more panoramic views this time of Shishpaangma as we dropped into a gorge until we arrived to Zhangmu, the last town in Tibet. From Zhangmu, we headed for the border crossing where all of our bags were to be searched. I had questionable photos taken in Dharamsala of the Panchen Lama which were very political and controversial in nature of which my tour leader was really concerned. I ended up deleting these photos so that in the event of my camera being scrutinized more closely I would not be blacklisted nor would it pose any concern to my fellow travelers. Of course, we arrived early enough at the border crossing to be the first group to be inspected and sure enough I was the only member of my group to have my camera searched. The customs officer said, “nice photos” and I said, “nice country”. He answered, “Tibet is not a country!” Yes, this is true. Tibet is more than a country. Tibet is pure religion, stark and contrastingly beautiful both in physical landscape and spirit. It is
strength and passion, harsh and loving and Tibet although occupied by the Chinese in many ways is still free!
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Agnès et Bernard
non-member comment
Beautifull Mina... Keep going! Much love