On Top of the World in Lhasa, Tibet


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October 14th 2011
Published: October 15th 2011
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Hi Everybody!
The train journey from Beijing to Tibet was not a fun trip! We were bumped from our booked first class cabin by a delegation of Tibetans. Because of this, we were in a 6 person cabin and were very crowded. The cabin had no door so we had no privacy. We are just glad that part of our trip is over. I will have to say that the scenery in the mountains of Tibet was beautiful. We saw herd after herd of sheep, yak, horses, and cattle. Many of the mountains were covered with snow. The sky was so clear and the prettiest color of blue.
When we reached the modern new train station in Tibet, we were met by our guide Sat. He welcomed us to the "Roof of the World" by adorning us with white prayer scarves. We could immediately feel the difference in altitude. The air in Lhasa is very thin. Just the effort of pulling the suitcase, left me huffing and puffing.
We loved our hotel, Shambala Palace Hotel, in the old section of Tibet. From the rooftop terrace, we could look out over the entire town.
Tibet reminded us of Peru. The people looked
CavesCavesCaves

We passed many of these caves as we traveled to Lhasa. Our guide later told us that monks would take a bag of barley, go to one of these caves, and meditate for a long period of time (sometimes years.)
like the Incas with their tanned, lined skin and facial shape. They wore traditional clothing. Many of the men had their hair long, pulled across on one side, and pinned behind the right ear in a roll. They wore a narrow, knitted scarf across the top of their heads. The women wore their hair pulled up in a bun or in many narrow braids down the center of their back. The braids were often plaited together with ribbon. The women wore a dark colored blouse and skirt. The skirt tied in the back. They wore a striped taffeta type apron in the front. Their hats had a floppy brim in front but were cut up high in back to go above their bun. The men also wore cowboy looking hats out of many different materials.
Most of the people in Lhasa are Buddhists. Pilgrims come from throughout the country to visit Tibet's holy city, Lhasa. Some of these pilgrims wear wooden pads on their hands and knees so they can prostrate themselves every foot or two. When they reach the Jokhang Temple, the spiritual heart of the city, many of them prostrate themselves 108 times. They use prayer beads to
Earthen GreenhousesEarthen GreenhousesEarthen Greenhouses

For miles, I thought these were earthen bunkers. From the RR tracks, I could only see the earthen wall. Finally, I was able to see the other side, the metal frame, and the camouflage netting that was used over the frame. I don't know what was planted in these greenhouses.
keep up with how many times they have done it.
When I visited the temple, there was a very long line of Pilgrims waiting to enter. Some of these pilgrims come daily swinging their handheld prayer wheels. Others carry a thermos filled with melted yak butter. They pour this butter in many large round or rectangular vats. Burning wicks in these vats give off the only light in the temple. Incense is also burned throughout the temple. Large statues of Buddha are encased in glass. Pilgrims stuff bills through a slit in the glass as their donation to the temple and the monks. Small chapels are off of the main temple and they contain about 9 large Buddhas each. The smell of the yak butter, the heat from the candles, the incense, the large number of people, a guide that wanted to tell me everything there was to know about each Buddha = a claustrophobic feeling. I couldn't wait to get out. After this experience, I told the guide that I didn't want to go into every temple and monastery in town. I did agree to climb up to the top of Potala Palace. Only 2000 foreigners are allowed in each day for one hour, and you have to make a reservation the day before going. Walt and Jim were smarter than I and chose not to test the 1000 steps to the top.
The Tibetan people are friendly with big smiles and shining eyes. They have a sadness brought about by decades of Big Brother, China, controlling their lives. Chinese military and police are everywhere --5 on every corner with guns and riot gear, many more on rooftops with guns and cameras. This is human rights at its worse. The Chinese Communist block BBC, CNN, and other Western media. They also control email. Young people told us that they cannot get passports. The Tibetans don't look or act like Chinese or share many of their beliefs. Their belief in the Dalai Lama results in the human rights abuses. It is illegal for them to own a photo of the Dalai Lama.
We are glad that we went to Tibet, one of the most isolated areas in the world.
Take care,
Everette


Additional photos below
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Harvesting marsh grassHarvesting marsh grass
Harvesting marsh grass

Women were filling bags with marsh grass. They feed it to their livestock, but they also use the woody stems as a building material.
HerdsHerds
Herds

We saw huge herds of animals from the train. Occasionally, there would be a herdsman in sight.
Corn on PatioCorn on Patio
Corn on Patio

We saw corn spread out on patios and in courtyards.
Cabin MatesCabin Mates
Cabin Mates

The woman on the right is the mother of the two little girls. The young man was not related to them and was also a cabin mate.
Tibetan LadyTibetan Lady
Tibetan Lady

This lady was in our train car. She had on regular clothes until we got close to Lhasa. She changed into this traditional dress. The striped apron means that she is married. She wanted me to take her picture.
Prayer ScarvesPrayer Scarves
Prayer Scarves

When we arrived in Lhasa, our guide gave each of us a prayer scarf blessed by a Buddhist monk.
Tibetan LadyTibetan Lady
Tibetan Lady

I was sitting on a bench waiting for Walt to come out of a tea room. This lady approached and wanted her son to take our picture. She took off her hat and put her face right next to mine. You would be amazed how many people asked to have their picture made. I am just posting a few.
Tibetan Bride & GroomTibetan Bride & Groom
Tibetan Bride & Groom

This couple was having a photo session in front of the gate to Potala Palace. They kept jumping up and trying to click their heels.
Prayer WheelsPrayer Wheels
Prayer Wheels

These prayer wheels were at our hotel. I think the owner is a Buddhist. I read a book that he wrote on Buddhism.
A Sitting Area in Our Hotel RoomA Sitting Area in Our Hotel Room
A Sitting Area in Our Hotel Room

We stayed at the Shambala Palace Hotel. It use to be the palace of a Lama. An American (lawyer, author, economist) owns it and several more.
Hotel BedHotel Bed
Hotel Bed

The woven cords had beads worked into them. They drove Walt nuts. The bedspread had beads sewn at random across the top. The rock walls in the bathroom had the beads in the mortar.
Our Hotel BathroomOur Hotel Bathroom
Our Hotel Bathroom

The floors and walls were stone. The shower area was like a cave.
Another Sitting AreaAnother Sitting Area
Another Sitting Area

This sitting area was on the floor. Tibetan craftsmen had made all of the furniture in our room, wove the rugs, & painted the designs on the wood and walls.


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