So I seem to be the only English speaker staying in the hotel, and have started second guessing my choice. So far, I still saved a good $400 USD by going through this hotel/hostel (Mr. Yak). The staff is great though, and make all my frustrations seem less important at the end of the day.
Anyways, today I woke up at 5am for no reason, and had trouble going back to sleep. I think I did just before my alarm went off at 8am, making waking up all the more difficult. I met my guide at 9am in the lobby, ready to see some of the sites of Lhasa. We took a taxi from the area in front of the hotel (past all the construction going on out front- I keep waiting to twist or break something on the road from the lobby to the main street). We went right to a busy shopping street with army guards posted on both sides of the entrance. It was a very busy street with lots of the typical tourist shopping stalls, with vendors calling, "looky this, looky that" all the way as you pass each stall, no matter how much distance you try to keep.
We walked until the street opened into a large square. Squads of 5-10 army guards could be seen making patrols of the area at any given time, something that always makes me feel nervous. Many Tibetans were making there rounds in the area spinning prayer wheels and chanting. It's beautiful to me to see a place, despite the tourism industry and flow of tourist from the West and elsewhere, maintain it's culture as best as they are allowed. The native dress, traditions and beliefs, are very much alive and well in Tibet. It is a beautiful sight to see. We made our way to Jokhor Temple, where the thick smoke from burning incense made it a little difficult to catch my breathe after walking at a fast pace to keep up with my guide.
I was surprised by the number of worshipers there... so many people were in front of the temple, many rising and going into a prostrate position again on the ground, with wood blocks on their hands that they would slap together and then use to slide their body straight as the went down again. The smells and sights were all so foreign and rich to me... I think there were many scenes today that will stick with me for years to come. We got into the temple and did our tour. It was crowded with Tibetans there to pray. I had heard there was some sort of festival going on, and I thought that was the reason for the crowds; but then my guide told me it's like that every day of the week! I didn't think to ask if it's new people every day or repeat visitors, but based on everything else I've seen, I wouldn't be surprised if it's many of the same patrons.
It really was a beautiful temple. I believe he said the oldest in Lhasa... but my memory is no good with such tidbits... I saw people on the roofs signing and I thought maybe dancing, but then as my guide tried to explain what they were doing, I remember a segment from last nights performance... they sing and work together when they are making the building material (clay or something). And I got to see it in real life. Quite impressive.
After the temple, my guide dropped me for lunch (all alone *sniff sniff*) at Lhasa Kitchen while he went to book my ticket to Potala Palace for tomorrow. They had a pretty good kitchen and we located right where the square opened from the street we took in. I usually lose my appetite during extensive traveling however, or at least when my system has some kind of shock... so I ordered a little veggie pizza and some masala tea. Barely touched the pizza, which likely contributed to my fatigue later in the day...
After that I did some browsing around Barkhor Street. The prices were ridiculous, and many vendors unwilling to negotiate with a foreigner. The best prices they would give me were still 4X what I would pay for the items in Shanghai. 200 yuan (kuai) for a single shirt or skirt. I laughed in the faces of many merchants, and hid my disappointment as I passed up several items I really wanted. I finally found one place with reasonable prices (supposedly "set"- the same for locals as for tourists). Bought two cute wrap skirts that will be great in the Vietnam and Thailand heat. Still feel like I paid way too much- just over 100 kuai for both... but I did want something from the market, and I think they were a good find.
From there we headed to the Summer Palace. We were going to take a rickshaw, but when the driver saw me and got a big toothless grin, I knew we were about to get scammed. He said he'd do it for 20 (taxi would only be 10). So I gave him my, "You're an idiot" eyebrow raise and hailed a passing taxi. I do so loathe how cities in developing countries breed this form of salesmanship and pricing scheme.
Anyways, we get to Summer Palace and I feel a little tired already. I drink water like crazy all day, and I still feel thirsty all the time! By the time we got there, I was needing a sit down break every half-hour or so. My guide continues to walk quite fast, despite the increasing breaks. I guess it's easy for a local to forget how hard it is to exert yourself until you fully acclimate to the altitude here...
The palace had huge grounds, filled with many buildings I learned the government had closed to visitors. The buildings we could visit were amazing though.
Got lots of good pictures I think and can't wait to be able to get them up on FB!
Later that night, back at the hotel, the boss many bought dinner (jiao zi dumplings) for me and two other foreigners staying here (and I thought I was the only one). They took pictures, and I realized that since they're just starting the pics are likely going to end up on the websites for the hostel... What a time to be without makeup or contacts :P
(yes, I can be a bit vain when it comes to photos that so many strangers will see)
Ah well... I'm exhausted and going to bed!