Jinan - City of surprises

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It was a warm early autumn afternoon when we flew in to Jinan International Airport on a “test run” with a host family. Earlier during the Hainan Airlines flight from Xi’An (I can recommend them - the service was excellent!) I was reading a travel guide which would turn even the most curious traveller off visiting Jinan. “Smoggy and dirty city which has little to offer the traveller - not worth the journey.” My excitement levels plummeted to zero.

The host family brought along cousins, aunts, uncles and anyone else that could fit into their 7 seater people mover. Naturally there were more than seven! We squeezed in and made our way along a quite unremarkable highway towards Jinan city. Smoke haze, factories and dust lined the horizon. I was beginning to think the travel guide was spot on.

As we reached the city we passed street markets which were setting up for the evening. I was immediately intrigued and asked our hosts if we could visit upon which they agreed. As we made our way through the narrow streets I began to feel a subtle allure whispering its secret.

The night markets were fabulous. The people were so very friendly. The wares were enticing. Silks, traditional crafts, delicious foods, old books, locally made clothing and more at ridiculously tantilizing prices.

The next day after a sumptuous welcoming meal that evening amongst the very extended family we drove to Baotu Spring Park in the centre of the city. The cost is 40 yuan to enter and is an exquisitely beautiful and tranquil location. There are several natural springs. According to experts' research, this spring has a history of 3,543 years, dating back to the Shang Dynasty (16th -11th BC). The park was also the former home of Song Dynasty poetess Li Qing Zhao. The park contains a full museum devoted to her life and work. It’s a great spot for some romantic photography.

Our hosts then drove us to another park where locals were playing some game kicking a badminton shuttle-cock. Fascinated by this skillful game I stood to watch but was soon invited to join in. As mu friends know me to be most uncoordinated I was amazed at the locals patience with me as I continually slowed them down by missing the shot. Again, another sign of ultra-friendly people.

Our next stop was in the centre of the city and were taken through a tour of old Jinan through its cobble stone back streets that have not changed in centuries. I was taken in with awe as I stepped back in time. The old shops were a travelers’ delight tantalizing and cheap. We recommend this walk through old Jinan. It is best if you can walk with a local, however, as you can get the most out of it. I am happy to give details if required.

The following day we drove to the outskirts of town to 1000 Buddha Mountain. Actually, compared to other mountains in China it is really a “hill”. Nonetheless it is full of ancient Buddhist history and survived partial destruction during the Cultural Revolution. Compared to many other temples we have visited and meditated in throughout China this one was relatively tourist free. Take time to visit the caves and the 1000 Buddhas carved into the rock face. It is an “active” temple and the monks are extremely friendly and helpful if you have someone with you who can speak Chinese. We were given a place to meditate in an ancient temple dedicated to Amitabha Buddha. Autumn leaves fell gently about us in this tranquil location away for the city bustle.

Back in the city of Jinan I needed to replenish the cash supplies from my Visa Travelex. Well, in spite of the numerous “Visa” signs at banks no ATM wanted to oblige the transaction. At one bank we had the Manager, assistant manager and four staff gathering around examining the Visa card as if it were some alien creature. Phone calls were made to the Head office in Shanghai but, alas, none knew what to do with this card. I was directed on to another bank. Similar gatherings of curiosity happened at another two banks until a young local woman joined the conversation and directed me to the Bank of China in the centre of the city. Oh, by the way1 Don’t expect shops to take credits cards in spite of the signage. Cash is the only currency, so beware.

Evening was announcing the close of the day and my partner and I walked aimlessly along the banks of Daming lake amid willow trees and old pavilions. We watched the swans come in to the banks to bed down for the night.

Jinan is a city of gentle and most unexpected surprises. If you are wanting to get away from the “tourist trail” and experience authentic China and true local friendliness and hospitality this is the city to visit. Our host family (who passed their test with flying colours!!) will welcome the most weary pilgrim.

Jinan tells a story of old romance and antiquity and holds its own amid the gritty industrialization.

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