Guilin's Parks and Xi'an's Terracotta Army


Advertisement
China's flag
Asia » China » Shaanxi » Xi'an
September 22nd 2012
Published: September 22nd 2012
Edit Blog Post

Day 12 (Mon 17thSept)



I decided to visit Guilin’s local parks and tourist sites today. What I didn’t expect was quite as much walking or climbing up stairs as I got, which I can tell you was plenty.

First I headed on the Number 1 bus to Diecai Hill, A park located at the top end of town. I bought the ticket that allowed me access to all 3 parks/hill areas. This cost CNY 95 (£9.50), bought individually this would have come to CNY 140 so saved a little on that, although in hindsight I probably could have saved more.

Diecai hill is probably the largest, with a series of paths and 3 large peaks, very very steep stairs to get up them. I’d had enough of steps to Tourist sites in HK but seems they’re back. The views however once at the top of any of the 3 peaks, of which I went up them all, were stunning. Being able to see the Limestone Karsts all coming of seemingly nowhere is lovely. The actual view of the city itself is pretty ugly, there isn’t too much to look at but the view of the hills makes up for this. I wandered around Diecai some more and found an Aviary in the middle, one you could actually go inside. I went in and was met by 3 large peacocks, sort of stood looking at them wondering whether to try and pass or wait. I felt the time was right and went for it and to my delight, I wasn’t attacked. Although I did feel every bird inside the Aviary was going to try to attack me at some point, felt on edge permanently.

Off the 3 peaks I found the 2 quiet ones to be far nicer as the tour guides must only take tours up the main one as that was rammed and not hugely enjoyable, after seeing the view from the other 2 peaks I could have missed this one out really. Headed down and back out.

Next was Fubo Hill, this was 15 mins or so down the road. Just one peak and to be honest the view doesn’t change much in a mile down the road, it was nice enough but not as impressive as Diecai. I had an incident on way between the two with a Chinese Army Officer I think he was. Stopped to take a picture of a entrance way, must have been into army land and he was straight across the road to have a word, albeit in Chinese. I knew what he wanted, it was obvious, so I had to delete the photo and move on, spoil sport!!

Last stop was Elephant Trunk Hill, only really went there as it was part of the package. CNY 75 to get in on its own was steep but as it didn’t seem so bad I went. It was exactly as people told me. Totally over-hyped and full of tourists from all over. Considering 100 yards down the road you wouldn’t spot a tourist. Turns out they’re all here. It’s ok, the trunk sort of does look like a trunk drinking from the river, but too save money I’d just look at a photo in future, they’re on every advertisement board in the town. The viewing platforms at the top are obscured by trees, simply put, it costs twice as much as Diecai which alone would have been CNY 35. In hindsight, I’d have just gone for the 1 I think and spent more time there. Legs are now killing after what must have been thousands of steps both up and down.

Took a dumpling cookery course in the evening at the hostel, already supplied with the dough, we just had to flatten it into shape and fill it, not something I’ve ever done but I’ve been enjoying eating dumplings since I’ve been here so made sense to have a go, between us all we made loads, waited for them to cook and then ate the lot. Very good evenings entertainment.



Day 13 (Tues 18th Sept)



Today has been a lazy day, just took one last walk around Guilin to make sure I hadn’t missed anything, I hadn’t. Took in the moon and sun pagodas and sat around the lake for a bit during the day, then headed back to the hostel to pack and relax for the rest of the afternoon. After tea I headed back out to the Pagoda’s to see them lit up. On the way to the city centre I said goodbye to Austrian Daniel who was off to Hong Kong. Shortly after this I heard a bit of a commotion as I was walking up the street, round a corner and straight into an oncoming Anti-Japan protest. Luckily I had my Lancashire cricket shirt on so I fit right in.

After the protest had passed I carried on towards the square. I’d read a waterfall occurred at 8:30pm. Got there and waited, nothing seemed to happen so went to leave. Realised I was slightly in the wrong place. A hotel turns into a huge waterfall, with water falling from around 14 floors up, it was very impressive and not what I was expecting, thinking more a few fountains but this was good.

Went to see the Pagoda’s lit up and at night the Pagoda’s and surrounding lake area are very colourful and pretty. Headed back to the hostel for an early night.



Day 14 (Wed 19th Sept)



Up at half 5 to get a taxi out to Guilin airport, was joined by a Swiss couple I met Monday night making dumplings so saved me a few quid in a fare. The flight to Xi’an was pleasant enough and so too the shuttle bus into town. Straight away it strikes you as a much larger place, skyscrapers lining the road into the city. I’m staying inside the City walls and at some point plan on cycling and walking around them, but they’re closed today much to my disappointment.

Did my usual of wandering around the city maples to try and get a feel for the place as well as my bearings, I find sometimes you find the best things when you don’t know where you’re going. Back to the hostel for an afternoon snooze and tea. I then headed up South St which sounds wrong as I write it towards the bell tower. The bell tower is a pretty impressive tower, located right in the middle of a roundabout in the centre of the city. It is the focal point of Xi’an and best place to get directions to or from as the 4 main roads run from it. The larger building of the Drum tower is a mere 150 metres away at a push and is also an impressive structure. I may go inside them at the weekend, depending on time. The Drum tower does however have one slight disadvantage to it. A 24hr McDonalds is right in front of it, and at night is actually lit up better than the tower itself. There’s also a fair few trees blocking good photo opportunities but I got there in the end.

Got some street food, although I couldn’t say what it was. One looked like a chicken breast but blatantly wasn’t, maybe a vegetarian type of meat, but was nice anyways. The other was meat on a stick, I presumed chicken and it could have been. It was heavily seasoned which blew up in my mouth, was like eating a vindaloo. Managed about 90 percent of both and headed back to the hostel. Those 2 items cost around 30 pence each so now I’m thinking street food is definitely the way forward, even if its rank its cost very little so why not.



Day 15 (Thurs 20th Sept)



Today is Terra-cotta warrior’s day, the day I’ve been waiting for since my river cruise down the Li river last week. Decided to go on a tour from the hostel as getting the bus seemed a little complicated and my lack of any Chinese hinders everything it seems.

What should have taken an hour to get there took 4, due to stopping of at a factory here, a souvenir shop there, and a small village museum also. The factory was where they make replica army members and was ok. One small room with people making things, 4 or 5 rooms of stuff to buy, I did want a lit up globe made from jade I think it was. The hefty price tag and lack of baggage space stopped that though. On to the village, called Banpo. This was another ancient village that the Chinese have recently uncovered and excavated. Was a bit rubbish and very little to see, all I did learn was that should a child die in this village they were put in a vase/bit of pottery to be buried, unless too big and they’d use 2 joined together, bit weird. There were also some skeletons of Banpo residents on display, none of which seemed very big. No I know Chinese people are generally shorter than us in the west but these couldn’t have been more than 4 foot if that.

Left Banpo and onto Terracotta Army, after a short stop of for lunch. There are 3 pits so far but I imagine more will be discovered in time. The Army were made to protect Emperor Qin, the first emperor of China, a man who throughout his life sought after immortality. Obviously he never got it and died at 50 after conquering China. The dynasty didn’t last long after he died either which can’t have impressed him much. He was also the man behind the great wall, which had I think 2 million people labouring on, although I’ll find out more about this in Beijing in 10 days time.

The Army themselves are amazing. Pit 1 has the main bulk of the soldiers’. Pit 2 is a works in progress pit I think. Now whether it’s meant to look like it has not been excavated I don’t know or whether it will be only time will tell, our guide wasn’t sure either way. Pit 3 is a small pit with only a few soldier’s and 4 horses.

The statues themselves are brilliant, so many over such a vast area. The time and effort that went into making them must have been huge as this was some 2200 years ago. The factory workers were struggling now so then must have been very hard indeed and all credit to them. They are also working to restore broken ones and give them back their rightful place. I’d imagine in years to come there will be even more terra-cotta soldiers in the collection. Definitely a must see in China, although a tour isn’t necessary. Our guide did one every time we went into a different pit and let us roam around, bit pointless having her really.

From here we went to Qin’s Mausoleum grounds although this was a letdown, we drove around in a golf buggy, going into various work in progress pits where there was pretty much nothing to look at. Started getting bored and fed up at this stage. Once this was done we got in the minivan and headed back into town. A quick McDonalds stop because I was craving a big Mac and back to the hostel to do some washing, not the evening I had in mind but its hammering it down with rain.



Coming Up – Big and Small Wild Goose Pagoda’s, Shaanxi History Museum, Cycling the City Wall, anything else I do in Xi’an


Additional photos below
Photos: 45, Displayed: 29


Advertisement



Tot: 0.108s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 13; qc: 44; dbt: 0.062s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.2mb