Blogs from Xiangfan, Hubei, China, Asia

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Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan October 2nd 2011

It's a constant worry of mine that despite the fact that I've been doing this for a year now, I don't feel as though I have very many good stories to tell. It's that feeling of meeting other people who've done all these exciting or interesting things and somehow feeling all wrong because the only thing I have to add is that I sliced my back open in a Chinese waterpark. So, with that in mind, here's a story about how I spent my last night in China sleeping outside Kunming airport. We arrived in Kunming a bit after 1oclock in the morning about three and a half hours late on a delayed China Eastern flight (if you ever have the option, I'd suggest not using them if you have any particular desire to get the ... read more

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan September 21st 2011

It feels like quite some time since I actually talked in any great detail about Xiangyang, the city I lived in until very recently, so let's do that. Given where it's situated - 10 hours from Xi'an, 18 hours from Beijing in, truth be told, a fairly nondescript province in the middle of China - it's never likely to be any kind of foreign tourist Mecca, particularly given the competition there is for tourism amongst Chinese cities. This competition is, of course, one of the problems for any country where the development has been so rapid and vast, because villages that become towns and towns that become cities in such a short space of time can't do anything other than build a city-by-numbers. This is convenient in a Milton Keynes sort of way but it does ... read more
Zhuge Liang, overlooking his square
The men whipping the spinning tops
Pool and Ping Pong outdoors!

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan August 23rd 2011

Plenty of people who have lived here will enjoy snootily telling you that the Chinese food you eat back home is 'nothing like the food you get here'. Well don't listen to a word of it. Of course there are differences (as a quick scan of the last entry will tell you) and the range here is far bigger and less obviously palatable to Western tastes - wouldn't you expect that though? - but you can still get some of the British Chinese restaurant staples here, if you so desire, which bearing in mind that I live in a city that's about as tourist friendly as Rotherham, pretty much means that these things are eaten in 'real' China, despite what some will enjoy sniffily saying. Obviously this isn't to say that you can buy prawn crackers ... read more
Hot Pot-tastic

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan July 27th 2011

As you'd expect, one of the most challenging things to get used to when you move to China - aside from the spitting, the urinating and defecating in the street, the language, the noise, the fireworks, the haphazard approach to building, the traffic, the smog and the fact that everywhere is busy all the time - is the food. This probably applies to most countries, I remember after two months in Costa Rica I was literally dreaming about eating cheese on toast, but China is undoubtedly on the extreme end of that particular spectrum. As you'll know, the staple is either rice or noodles, which are fine and I think I have eaten at least one of these every day since I arrived here five months ago. The slightly peculiar thing is that some restaurants serve ... read more
Goose Feet two - One's trying to escape (thanks for that line, Jason)

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan June 27th 2011

Dragon Boat Racing has been going on in China since 250BC, although it took Xiangyang a little while to catch on and they started their own race here last year. Despite this, I have been told that Dragon Boat Racing started here in Hubei Province, but I get the impression that this may be a bit like the way half of the coffee shops in Edinburgh claim to be the one where JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter, or all those American towns who claim to have the largest toilet/longest hotdog/man with the biggest beard of bees. I didn't really have much of an idea of what a Dragon Boat was, so on the day of the race a couple of weeks ago, which was a day off here, I wasn't really sure whether to expect a ... read more
The fake finish line
The end of the third (and final) race - Finally, a decent view
Not a dragon boat

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan June 3rd 2011

KTV, or Karaoke to you and me, is massive here. I know the stereotype is of drunk Japanese businessmen singing along with Shakira songs until the early hours but that image applies just as accurately to China as it does to Japan or anywhere else. The KTV bars themselves are quite literally on every street, in this city at least. There aren't a huge amount of normal bars or clubs here and so often on work nights out, birthdays, or other general celebrations, KTV seems to be the go-to-place. The ones I have seen have entrances and reception desks that have a very real feel of a fancy hotel about them. Once you have booked your room, you go to the shop and buy whatever you think you will need to help you sing infront of ... read more

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan May 27th 2011

Haggling, much like card tricks, making cakes and tying knots in balloons, has always been one of those arts - for arts they are - that I have never been able to master. I have tried and tried in various markets at home and abroad but I could never do it, and I was always incredibly jealous of anyone I saw doing it well. I always consoled myself with the fact that my shortcomings in this field are because I'm not just not a business person and that my lack of willingness to be a hard bargainer about money issues was good in other ways. Of course, this is rubbish, and the reality of it was that anytime I went near a market in Costa Rica, or anywhere else for that matter, there was always a ... read more

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan April 29th 2011

As I write this, I'm in a cafe listening to a Pan-Pipe cover of 'I wanna know what love is' by Foreigner. I wasn't sure what to expect with the music here, but it is, perhaps unsurprisingly, largely pop or dance stuff. Most of it is Chinese, obviously, but if you are only half paying attention or you don't listen to the words, musically it could pass for generic Western pop music. That's not to say American and European music hasn't infiltrated these shores to some extent. On occasion I will be walking down the street and hear something familiar being played in a shop or on the radio of a passing car. Shakira, Coldplay and Lady Gaga all seem to be fairly popular - and last week I heard Chelsea Dagger by The Fratellis in ... read more

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan April 29th 2011

Two months ago, when I was in Jinan, it was snowing, one month ago here it was so cold that my hands swelled up and I could see my breath when I was lying in bed. Now, I write this having been sitting outside for the last two hours in 30 degree heat eating ice-cream in the square. Strangely, despite me having spent most of my time since last September in either Costa Rica or China I am not someone who deals with the heat very well, and worryingly I cant imagine that this is going to be like it is at home where the worst of the sun is over by the end of June, and I can look forward to overcast rainy days until a brief Indian Summer in the early autumn gets everyone ... read more

Asia » China » Hubei » Xiangfan April 13th 2011

Last Tuesday was Tomb-Sweeping day here in China. This is a festival where the graves of relatives are tended and visited in much the same way as we might do on the anniversary of a death. As well as being a day for this, it is also, in this part of the country at least, a day when people who have moved away from their home towns or their families, return to see them. Despite all of this, for me it just meant I had a few days off work. This all fitted in quite nicely as it came just as I was getting over my dependence on the toilet, as delicately described and documented last time, and it meant there was a chance to have a day or two exploring the city. So, day one ... read more
Part of the inner wall
The Han. Looking clean.
Halfway up to the Memorial, with no hint of what was to come




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