Blogs from Guizhou, China, Asia

After arriving back in Kaili after a disappointing night in Chong An I hopped straight on the bus bound for the Miao tourist town/village of Xijiang. The trip took about an hour passing some nice scenery along the way and then we were dropped off at the entrance gate at the top of the hill. I paid the $16 entry fee and joined about 100 Chinese tourists to have a look from the viewpoint over the town. The view was pretty good and after taking a few photos of the Chinese tourists dressed in traditional clothes I walked down the hill, across the river and eventually found a nice room in the main street above a candy shop for $11 a night. That night whilst I was having dinner at a cheap barbecue place I started ... read more

Woke up this morning and headed staight for the nearby Dong Village. The village seemed deserted, so we hopped in our cars and drove through the mountains from Rongjiang to Sanjiang, stopping off at the Basha Village in the Qiandongnan Miao-dong Autonomous Prefecture of Guizhou. The 499 households of Baisha folk live in harmony with nature, worshipping the tree and the sun. They believe their race was born from the stem of the maple tree. They are distinctive from other Miao cultures with the men bearing shaved heads except for the top middle piece which is grown long and twisted into a "Hugun" knot. These are the only people in China aside from the police and military that are allowed to carry guns. More like muskets, they were readily willing to discharge their firearms to the ... read more

Today was truly a special treat. As fate would have it, the Kaili Ethnic Minority Museum was closed for refurbishing. Leaving Kaili we headed into the mountains to visit the secluded 1,000 Family Miao Village. Access to the village required some real off roading, but fortunately we befriended a govt official who allowed us to drive through the villagers entrance to this magical place. If you ever visit China and could only see one place, I would choose this village. I could easily spend a week here, chilling out with the warm Miao villagers. The Miao women are known for their spectacular costumes and headdresses. Their houses and bridges were very intricate in design compared to the Baima, Naxi, Yi and Mosuo and Bai ethnic minorities we had encountered. And this village of just over 1,000 ... read more

I do like traditional folk songs. But I didn’t think I like the folk songs in this area. I prefer the songs in northwest of China, which seems more powerful and primitive. Songs in Guizhou’s minority groups are more resonant by high pitch. I used to think it is a little bit ear-piercing when I listened through TV. But I completed changed my mind when I enjoyed the live performance in Xiaohuang, a small ‘Dong’ village which is famous by its songs. I was late. Every year there is a big singing competition from 13rd to 15th August according to Luna calendar. In that day, many choruses from ‘Dong’ villages come there to compete. It is not a formal competition. The key point mostly focuses on the fun. It is a big party for these ‘Dong’ ... read more

20/11/11 I woke at 0530 and was coming on for a cold. 50p taxi to the bus station. 0640 Tongren-Junko City, the nearest city to the 2.4km high Fanjing Mountain and surrounding nature reserve (with wild monkeys). Junko City bus station had photos of bus crash victims and their bodies. Didn’t know why. I got on a bus identical to ones in the photos and which dropped me at what looked like Fanjing Mountain base camp. A quiet little market of marquees selling either food or gifts. At one food marque a woman seemed to give off a good vibe from a distance. Unlike so many middle aged women in China, she had kept her youthful smile and often laughed loudly and heartily in her hoarse voice. I ate too much and set off on the ... read more