Mystery at the Giggling Tree

The location: Yangshuo, China. The culprit: Bacteria or virus. The victims: At least 10 guests and staff of the Giggling Tree, having what they are describing as either the worst stomach bug or case of food poisoning of their lives. Very, very fortunately for me, I have been spared. Jeremy, however, succumbed around 3am this morning and has been sick ever since. So, instead of kayaking the Li River as planned for today, I get to play nurse to sick hubby and catch up on some blogging and reading, I suppose.

It’s quite an odd thing. At first everyone thought it was food poisoning, as the first several people to get sick all ate chicken. Then people (such as Jeremy) started getting sick who didn’t even eat dinner here last night (we went to see the Light Show, and by the time we got back, the kitchen was closed, so our dinner consisted of Snickers bars)! Now we’re wondering if it’s a virus of some sort, though something bacterial could be likely, too, as I’m one of few who isn’t sick and I’ve been taking antibiotics for three days because of my sinus-head-cold thing. At any rate, the first ones to get sick are already feeling better, so at least whatever it is, it’s virulent but short-lived. Hopefully Jeremy starts feeling better as the day wears on and we have no further bouts of sickness…

But, on a brighter note, we had a great afternoon and evening yesterday before the epidemic swept in. Jeremy spent the afternoon after our bike ride sketching and relaxing here at the Inn, while I hopped back on the bike and headed out for a sunset ride amongst the mountains and water buffalo. I just can’t get over the mountains here. I don’t know if everyone feels the same awe that we do, or if we especially appreciate their beauty since we’re Floridians who rarely get to see any mountains at all. Regardless, this is a beautiful spot, truly one of the scenic wonders of the world, and I’m so thankful we had the opportunity to visit it.

After some confusion about when the taxi was picking us up for the show (and what to do once we got there), we were finally picked up and driven into town, sharing the ride with an unfortunate Brit who’d needed emergency dental surgery in town the previous day and was going back in for a check-up. After dropping him off, we get to a “theater” that is impossible to fully describe in words (but I’ll do my best). It’s situated at the natural junction of the two rivers in the area, which forms a cove of sorts, surrounded by about a dozen soaring karst peaks. A stand of about 2,000 seats lines up along the water’s edge, and all is black except the moon shining overhead and some background lighting against the peaks, which makes them look even more surreal than they do in the daytime. Somehow, though we didn’t reserve special seating, we were in the FRONT ROW, almost dead center. We couldn’t believe it!!

Then, lights. Singers. Dancers in traditional costumes. More than you can count. Then you realize that there is no stage at all; rather, all the performers are balanced precariously on the same bamboo rafts like the ones we crossed the river on earlier that day. They line up in long rows, the lighting turns bright red, and out of nowhere they are lifting gigantic red sheets up and down out of the water in dizzying rhythm. Then giant props start floating out…a half-moon that begins gently swaying back and forth, and you see there is a lone girl dancing gracefully along the top of the moon as it sways like a rocking horse. Then more village people in traditional attire appear, leading behind them real cows and water buffalo. Hundreds of beautiful little girls rush out right in front of us, clasp hands, and sing at the top of their lungs. All of it is in Chinese, of course, so you can’t understand the plot or a word they’re singing…but it doesn’t matter a bit. It’s extraordinary to witness, almost brings tears to your eyes at the sheer magnitude of it.

And they saved the best for last. Hundreds (literally hundreds) of performers start trickling out from the far end of the black cove, and all is pitch black except for their costumes of white Christmas lights. Slowly they float out, a mass of white lights zig-zagging across the bay in perfect time to the music, and you swear you’re dreaming some bizarre dream of another world. We read after the performance that the director of the show is the same man who directed the opening ceremonies of last year’s Olympics (which were similarly incredible).

What impressed me the most, though, is the cast. They aren’t actors. They didn’t study at Julliard or take any formal acting classes. They are the same people we’ve probably cycled past and photographed this week, working in their gardens, fishing on the rivers…heck, the woman who ferried us across the river that morning was probably one of them!! They’re common country folk by day, toiling under the sun as farmers and fishermen, yet turn into Broadway-style sensations when the sun goes down. It’s the coolest paradox ever. It was a total splurge at just under $30 a ticket - by far the most expensive luxury we’ve enjoyed here - but it’s worth every penny, and you can only imagine what a similar show would cost in the states!

So, we had quite a lovely day and evening until the strange bug that swept through last night. Hopefully everyone here starts feeling better, and we’re hoping Jeremy is well enough tomorrow to reschedule our kayaking trip…but that remains to be seen! This afternoon I went for a solo bike ride while Jeremy rested; a few miles down the road is "The Old Banyan Tree," a 1400-year-old tree!! I had to laugh when I saw it - while it was pretty, the banyan in North Palm Beach is probably bigger and much prettier. But hey, I didn't come to Yangshuo to see trees after all...

Now I've just arrived back at the Inn to find that Jeremy seems to be over the worst. Unfortunately, the Inn is completely out of water. Yes, actually OUT of water, if you can believe it - no running water. They've had somewhat of a drought here and asked us all when we checked in to watch the amount of water we use, but with 10+ people sick, flushing toilets and washing up every few minutes, it was bound to happen. We're thankful this is our last night here; while it's a lovely place and the staff has been wonderful, we definitely are in the proverbial wrong place at the wrong time!!

---

---

Part of trip: Phase 1: Life on the Road - Asian Style!

---