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Published: December 6th 2007
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Plans change, deal with it
REPOST: I neglected to mention that the night before, in Xian, I went to a sound and light show at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and it was amazing. Then as we wandered back towards our hostel we came across a heaps of people doing exercises and dances, all following someone with an umbrella and waving fans to te beat of massive drums being played. It was really a good way to end a great day at the warriors.
Had my first rough day today.
I had booked a ticket to Lanzhou, nothing really there its just a stopping point to catch another train or bus. From here I was planning to catch a bus to two small towns; Xiahe and Langmusi - small Tibetan monastery towns that used to be on the border of Tibet and China before it was annexed. I was also going to buy my train ticket to Tibet for next week from here. BUT, somehow in my single-mindedness of getting visas to Central Asia, I forgot to organise a permit for travel to Tibet.
Now, this 'permit' is somewhat controversial as there is no real need for
it and many people just see it as a scam to raise money for the Government. Many travellers have reported getting Chinese nationals to buy their train tickets to Tibet so that they didn't have to buy a permit, and many have been successful in doing this. However, there is always the risk that you may get caught and even though you may only get fined you can possibly be kicked off the train. Knowing my luck, I don't want to risk this occuring so I was going to get a permit but as I said I forgot to organise one in Beijing.
So, this morning in Xian I got up early, got some breakfast, packed my stuff and headed down to the lobby of the hostel in order to organise a Tibet Permit, but by the time we all understood each other it was time for me to head to the train station to check in for my stupid train! Finally the girl said that all they needed to do was photocopy my passport and my Chinese visa and they could email it to me, 'are you sure you want the permit?' she asked. I looked at my
watch, time ticking away, train checking in time, I thought to myself that it was expensive and that surely I could get the permit in Lanzhou. So I told her not to worry and rushed to catch the bus to the train station.
I get to the train station and wait, wait, and wait some more until finally it is ten minutes before the train leaves and I am still sitting in the waiting room with everyone else! I checked with someone to see if they were on the same train or if they were waiting for another one, but lluckily we were waiting for the same train. Another 10 minutes go by before an announcement is made (in Chinese) that causes everyone around me to moan and complain. I figured the train is dealyed, highly unusual for Chinese trains. Eventually, 40 minutes after we were supposed to depart we board the train and 50 minutes after we were supposed to leave our train rolled out of Xian. This meant that i wouldn't get to Lanzhou in time for the last bus to Xiahe, I was going to be stuck in Lanzhou. I spent the majority of the next
6 hours of the train ride flcikcing through my Lonely Planet checking bus timetables, train timetables, hotel, restaurant and internet cafe locations. I passed some amazing scenery but in my panicked state didn't even think of grabbing my camera and snapping a few photos. Although we did spend a lot of time underground, as the train passed through 70 odd tunnels while I was awake.
So, here I am in Lanzhou...trying to figure out how I am going to get this stupid permit to Tibet. The current plan is to get up early tomorrow and catch a 3 hour bus to Xining where a lot of trains depart for Tibet and there are a few Hotels and tour agencies that can sell you a permit. But after that it would be easier if i could then catch a bus from there to Xiahe instead of coming back to Lanzhou for another night, apparently there is a bus but I don't know from when and where! I'm still working on that part.
Anyway, that has been my day. Sorry no photos, as I said I didn't take many today and can't upload them at this internet cafe.
Thanks
for reading and for the comments, its nice to hear from you all.
Matt out
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Michael
non-member comment
Ah the joys of travel, just let the panic sink in!