Tips for Cycling in Beijing

Cycling around Beijing is generally achievable - but not for the squeamish or feint hearted. The following observations are based on a visit to Beijing during a windy and (mercifully) clear last week of October 2008. We used our own bicycles, transported safely and within baggage weight limits by Qantas from Australian.

A Navigators Nightmare
We stayed at the North end of Beijing at the Crowne Plaza Wuzhou. A ride South to the Forbidden City seemed straight forward enough. In reality there were a few barriers to easy navigation. Some of the more major roads in Beijing are fenced and not crossable except for pedestrian overpasses. This was not clear on either of the maps that I had. All roads are not marked on the map. We found name similarities to be challenging. Parks and gardens block through roads and alternate routes need to be constantly found.

Bottom of the traffic totem pole
As a cyclist be prepared to rank last in the traffic priority order. Generally ranked by size of vehicle, buses, cars, motorcycles, trolleys, pedestrians and dogs exercise their right of way over the poor cyclist. Particularly watch for cars exiting side streets. Patience and peripheral awareness are the keys to survival.

Dedicated bicycle lanes
All of the major and minor roads around Beijing seem to have bicycle lanes. In some cases these lanes are separated by fences from the main thoroughfare. They are wide clear and everybody travels in the same direction.In other cases they are narrow, cluttered by parked cars and shared by a multitude of pedestrians, cars bikes, motorcycles, buses and other unusual forms of wheeled conveyance. People travel freely in either direction in bicycle lanes on both sides of the road, and there is no universal convention for passing on the left or the right. Traffic wardens who appear on the main roads around the city centre in the afternoon will enforce the direction rule. Some bicycle lanes around the centre of Beijing are cleared of bicycle traffic after 6:00 PM in favour of buses. Before 6:00 PM you just have to take your chances with the buses.

Ride your own Race
The locals approach cycling with a detached assurance that belies its hazards. Average cycling speeds are 10 to 15 kph (6 to 9 mph). Many cyclist do not demonstrate a peripheral awareness. They cross against lights. Many meander constantly while others doggedly hold their line against all oncomers. None use lights after dark. If you are comfortable with this detachment you will blend in well.

Keep Right
This will be obvious (at least from the point of view of the general traffic flow) when you arrive. For those cyclists used to the convention of riding on the left, right side practices will add to the general confusion of navigation. Cars seem to come from nowhere. The Turn right on red light convention is either applied or assumed. Cars, trucks and buses exercise this application or assumption to the exclusion of the rights of cyclists and pedestrians who may be crossing with green lights.

Cleats and squat toilets are a bad match
In fact cleats and Beijing didn't really work for us. Cleating and de-cleating becomes a constant activity. Cycling speeds in the city don't justify cleats (or even a full set of gears). Perhaps consider two sets of pedals.

Spare Parts
I thought I was well prepared for my trip until I broke a saddle post clamp stud while putting my bike back together. Fortunately there are numerous well stocked and equipped bicycle shops around the city.

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