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Published: April 18th 2011
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In a "family" teeming with women, there's bound to be one bossy, domineering brother. In a land where a male heir is cherished, it's only fitting that Beijing assume such a role. The political centre of this vast country with a population of 22 million, Beijing is not the oldest city (which I remember lovingly referring to as "Peking" as a child) but it is certainly rich in cultural treasures from the past and even more evident, has made a giant leap into the future.
This is not the city I had expected. But in many ways that's a good thing.
Before coming here, I had a wonderful opportunity to visit an Intrepid (the travel organization who organized this tour) sponsored charity that teaches mentally disabled people from ages 14-40, job skills, basic life skills and gives them an opportunity to interact with similar individuals. In a country where 1.3 billion people are squeezed together, I had wondered what happened to those who are not able to join into the foray. Previously, they were the "forgotten" people but now China is slowly beginning to work with these individuals and make their lives brighter. In comparison to organizations in the
Western world, they may seem somewhat "behind" in their approach to special needs people but it does bring one hope to see that some organizations have sprouted up and exist in this vast land. The Huiling Centre is a non-profit organization and relies on local businesses for financial assistance. The staff and "students" were so excited by our visit...we played games with them, we danced the "Chicken Dance" and most important of all, we gave them some time and attention. I am so thrilled to have had the morning with them...tourist sites can easily wait when you have the opportunity to bring a smile to a face.
This city is both maddening and quite endearing. It's absolutely impossible to get anywhere quickly...taxi's are a god-send if you are lucky enough to catch one as you are competing with so many other people waving their hands, buses are perpetually crowded and the streets are constantly teeming with people. The roads themselves are congested with bicycles, cars, buses, pedestrians and it seems as if we were always caught in some sort of a traffic jam. Cars with specific numbers can only drive on specific days but from what I experienced, the
"pot" continues to overflow. As a means to "decongest", the Beijing Municipality Government designed a subway network to carry it's 22 million citizens all over the city. Everything is in English and Chinese and runs with precision and punctuality. You can travel anywhere on the subway (there are over 15 separate and easy-to-follow lines) for a mere thirty cents!!! TTC for shame!!! Of course, you will always have to squeeze into the subway doors but I am becoming more and more accustomed to this practice for everyday living. My hotel room has become a most welcome respite as it's far from the maddening crowd!
If I feel like old style noodles, it's down the road. If I feel like a latte, there's a Starbucks around the corner. If I feel like some "Mao", I can go to Tian'anmen Square (he's in a glass coffin for the devoted!) but if I feel like some dazzling architecture I can go visit the 2008 site of the Summer Olympics. Beijing is like an enormous time machine...pick your destination and dynasty and enjoy the ride!
Of course, two hours out of the city I had the opportunity to realize another lifelong dream.
I have always been fascinated by the Great Wall of China and read encyclopedias and textbooks because it intrigued me so much. I am quite unclear as to the validiity of one fact: the Great Wall of China is the only man-made structure that can be seen from outer space...but when you are a ten-year old child, in 1969, who hears such a "fact", and when you dig and dig in the ground because you really believe that eventually you will end up in China...well, what can I say? A dream came true! I was quite overwhelmed when I saw it and after climbing it's serpentine walkways for nearly three hours, I bow down to this ingenious civilization that constructed such a wonder. I admit that at times, the climb was incredibly arduous, with a surprise afternoon heatwave, uneven steps and some staircases that were incredibly steep but who am I to complain when I consider the immense labour it took each worker to construct this marvel and the thousands of years it took to bring it to final completion? The Great Wall was definitely a highlight for me and the consummate metaphor of the brilliance of this country...a country
that is known to have "walls" of its own but seems to periodically open its doors and welcome you with open arms. How lucky I have been to be a recipient of this generosity!
How symbolic was my final evening when I went back to Tian'anmen Square to watch the nightly ceremony of taking down the flag of the People's Republic. With Mao staring intently in the background, I watched the military move with incredible precision as the crowd became quite excited by the whole five minute event. I looked at all the different people in the crowd, youth with coiffed hair and designer wear, families hoisting children on their shoulders, and elderly people wearing "Mao"-like clothing...all gathered together to watch such a simple but obviously important nightly ritual. I really can't imagine what anyone was thinking nor would I bother to conjecture in this complex and sometimes bewildering nation. As soon as it was over, there was an announcement from a loudspeaker that everyone was to vacate the square. At least, it appeared that way because suddenly everyone was rushing to the underground passage to the subway and the soldiers were marching around in perfect step. "When in
Rome..." (and not speaking Mandarin myself!) I joined the melee in the underground and tried to figure out what I had just experienced. Amazingly enough, people complied immediately and the subway was jammed with revellers from every generation. In a society that seems to thrive well on being told what to do and how to do it, it was quite an experience for one not so used to such conformity.
They say all families are complex and China is certainly no exception. I'm thrilled however, that they let me into their "home" and I only hope that maybe sometime in the not-so-distant future, they will extend that invitation once again. Mao himself carried out a campaign entitled, "The Great Leap Forward" and it was not a success at any rate. It would be interesting to see his reaction to the China I experienced. I don't think it is the China he envisioned but I do think the Chinese have realized that in order to take that "leap" they have had to open their "doors" and let the world peek in. Changes are afoot in China, and other changes need to take place...that is without question.
But the next
time I see a child with a bucket digging in the sand, I'm going to tell them to keep digging and digging...an amazing country awaits them on the other side of the world!
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Jude
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Peeking in Beijing
Oh Kevin, I love it so much. I so look forward to your stories and feel as though I'm there with you. You really do have a "gift" of writing and I could visualize every single thing and was so excited by it all, Especially you telling about the "Great Wall" so amazing and I felt a bit tired climbing all those stairs too lol! I love the symbolic evening in Tian'anmen Square. Exquisite and yes!! when in Rome as it goes, you get right into the subway pronto!! Ah I love the diversity, if you feel like Latte, there's Starbucks, or old style noodles, (that appeals to me about now). I look forward to seeing you but briefly between TO and NY Give me some dates ma dear, need to talk to Heather and we'll meet you anywhere, even the airport for a coffee lol Miss you terribly but absoloutely thrilled you are on this trip and enjoying these stories so much. ttyl luve Jude xo