Jiankou to Mutianyu

---

Great Wall Mission

Me and my sister Virginia had been in Beijing for a few days and decided it was time to check out the great wall. We were hoping to see an authentic section and while we didnt want to travel too far from Beijing we were prepared to put in a bit of foot work once there. We checked out the different options and the Jiankou section stood out due it's apparent amazing panamoric views, un restored sections and lack of tourists. All of this would turn out to be true.. Although after a bit of research we had almost put ourselves off after reading other travelers reports of dangerous sections, very steep and difficult paths and the easy ability to get lost. For those that know me, I am a bit directionally challenged, so we decided to try and organize a local guide to get us to the top of the wall and wing the rest. The nearest village to the Jiankou section of the wall is Xizhazi. Unlike the other great wall sections where a cable car or road takes you to the wall, the Jiankou section starts with a 45min up hill slog through unnamed tracks. We found the name of one of the only guest houses in the village (Zhaou's guest house) and through an interpreter (our hotel staff), we were able to organize a guide to get us onto the wall. We decided once on the wall we walk the 5/6 hours to the Mutianyu section. We organized a driver to pick us up from our hotel, drop us at Xizhazi and pick us up at Mutianyu.

Our day started with a 6am pick up and by 8:30am we met our guide. Our guide was really just a local farmer but a lovely guy with zero englisH. After walking for a bit and taking a few different turns we were pleased with our decision to get a guide. On the 45min walk up to the wall we only passed one other group of people who were returning after taking some sunrise photos. The walk, while difficult, was not overly strenuess. Each time we would round a bend we would get a peak at the wall which looked stunning. Once we reached the first peak we were a little tired but were rewarded with the most amazing landscape. The wall stretched out into the distance adjulating up and down the mountain. We stayed up there for a while photographing and checking out the watch tower. Our guide then pointed which way to follow the wall and left us for the rest of the journey. We knew if we followed the wall we would make it Mutianyu and our ride home. The section of the wall we walked was completely unrestored, crumbling bricks and overgrown with weeds. It was hard work but we were rewarded with the most amazing scenery and zero other tourists. We walked through and explored long abandoned watch towers, clambering up to get a better view of the horizon. For 2 hours we followed the wall towards Mutianyu and didnt see a single other tourist. It wasn't until we made it the next peak and Mutianyu became visable in the distance that we had company. After a steep down hill section we joined onto the Mutianyu section of the great wall and the contrast was incredible. All of a sudden we where hit with thousands of tourists, hawkers selling water, a section great wall which had been restored with hand rails, new bricks/ steps and rubbish bins .... And loosing a lot it's charm at the same time. However you can see why this side of the wall is attractive as it is more accessible for the elderly or those wanting a more relaxed trip. After our 5 hour walk we decided to ride the luge to get to the bottom of Mutianyu for our waiting driver.

Our full on day was absolutely worth it and we were glad we went against the advice of others to try an unrestored section of the wall. In hindsight it would have been cool to explore the Jiankou section a bit more (going the opposite way to Mutiamyu) and even staying over night in one of the watch towers



CheerAb

---