First impressions of Beijing

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I thought that, coming from Japan, the culture shock might be smaller. I realised my Mandarin was woefully inept (read: non-existent) after the 4-hour flight sat next to a charming couple who made repeated attempts to communicate with me but, even with copious use of the phrasebook, didn't get far. About the only thing we agreed on was: kempei-cheers!

Beijing aeroport was as most aeroports are: spacious, largely white and functional. The city itself is pure chaos, much like London - certainly the traffic is a little like London, although the traffic rules are flexibly enforced which makes for some interesting car journeys!

There are thousands of bicycles here, often laden with passengers or goods - anything from building equipment to laundy, sometimes with a trailer and sometimes not. I was struck by how the chaotic streets still somehow remain stress-free. Horns are used frequently (by comparison with the UK - those who have been to the Middle East or India will laugh, I know) but to alert other road users (of whatever description) to your presence; they are not used in anger, or rarely.

The people are on the surface more unfriendly. There is a lot more open staring, but no smiling (unless they are trying to sell you something). There is a lot less small-talk (not that I would be capable of it anyway) and more wordless miming or just pushing aside. After the polite, curious and approachable Japanese society, my initial impression was one of a slightly hostile people.

In fact, the Beijing-ers have been friendly and helpful. The younger generations especially have good English, and all generations are usually willing to help you. Even if you are not asking for help, eye contact and a friendly 'nihao' (hello) usually win you a smile and their whole face softens.

I also find the people in Beijing pleasantly laid-back. It has all the promise of London's bustle, but without London's self-important I-need-to-be-here-yesterday. Yes, there is a lot of pushing, but it's mostly entirely justified, in a city with so many people. And it somehow, even to my British trained mind, is never malicious. Other than that, people leave you alone and there is very little physical contact.

My last observation is that there are few beggars around - at least around the touristy areas. I put this down more to strict policing (there are policemen every 200 meters or so and bag scanners everywhere: to get into TIanamen Square, to get on the tube etc etc).

All in all, I like Beijing - it doesn't have any of the bright neon you associate with Tokyo or Shanghai and manages to be a bustling metropolis without being a soul-less hive of drones as some cities can become.

One disappointing and bizarre thing: "old Beijing" doesn't exist at all. Not because the city doesn't have centuries of history, but because most of it was destroyed (much of the damage was done by Anglo-French troops during the 1890s Opium War - well done us). Therefore all the "old" buildings are in fact reconstructions from the 1980s.

The architecture makes me laugh: I had always thought that Chinatown in London (and in every other city I've been to) was intentional kitsch to please the tourists. Instead I find that the steep roofs that curve up at the edges, the bright colours and the red lanterns are a feature of most of the architecture here (although there are a few obligatory bland, square, Communist buildings) - 'here' being the city centre. Sometimes it feels as though you're living in one big Chinatown...

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