It had been 14 months since we were last in China, during the frenzy of the Peking Olympics. There had been a state inspired party atmosphere, during that time, where we felt that everyone had to be happy or else. It had been horribly hot, and polluted, and yet most things foreign and strange were forgiven. We had been to Sinkiang and seen the hard life that was lived by the minorities there, and our travel plans had been affected by the violence in the region. This time, the northerly winds brought down sub zero temperatures and clear blue skies. Beijing,
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