Siem Reap

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Back to Cambodge (26 January 2010)

It is 6 years since we were last in Siem Reap and although the humidity, flat landscape, green fields and water logged floodplains remain the same, the frenetic energy and rapid pace of development was startling.

We were warned by Cambodians at the airport and on the way into town that there had been many changes and this was evident by the heavy construction everywhere. Siem Reap is no longer the laid back little town that it was not so long ago with many of the dirt roads and shacks replaced by some monolithic hotel constructions.

We have been told that there has been heavy inverstment by the Chinese and the Koreans which has led to the construction of better roads to allow the myriad of big bus tours coming through a smoother passage. Development - is it good is it bad - who can say.

W thought for our fist day we would simply reaquaint ourselves with the heart of Siem Reap town centre, the old market and the market at Psa Char. The proliferation of restaurants was astonishing and also very appealing. We stopped off for a Khmer massage - the best $6 for one hour. The cultural attache passed out during the massage snoring his head off much to the concern of the little lady working on him.

On our first day back we discovered that although there has been a rapid expansion to accommodate the new wave of mass tourism from China and Korea, Siem Reap still maintains much of its idiosyncratic charm and paradoxes. With all the sights, sounds and aromas, Siem Reap is truly sensory overload Cambodian style.

The Dead Fish - where on can see Apsara dancing and live crocodiles and by the way they do not serve dog, cat, rat or worm

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