Kingdom of Cambodia

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8 days, 3 towns, a couple of domestic flights, a few boat excursions, and miles of dusty roads have given us insights into a Kingdom far removed from anything we've yet experienced in Asia. Here we see the extreme poverty of today's society contrasted with the remnants of the lavish outlay of resources from the beginings of this Khmer civilization. The ancient temples of Angkor are why we came - and they indeed are amazing. Ranking as one of the "seven forgotten wonders of the medieval mind" right along with the likes of the Taj Mahal and the Parthenon. These homes for the ancient Hindu and Buddhist gods are a testimony to the grandeur humans can produce when inspired by the divine. But the trip would seem a bit one-dimensional if weren't for the excursions to the remote fishing villages, secluded national park beach, flooded forest and floating village, bustling markets, and seaside beach retreat. The people are resilient, warm and friendly despite having endured the worst imaginable turmoil over the past 40 years. Everyone and every place here is affected. Everyone has a story.

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Photos

Jayavarman
One of 216 faces peering at us out of the jungle in the temple complex known as Bayon.

What we left behind
The pool at Vizcaya looks about as inviting as swimming the English channel in January.

What we traded for
Ahhhh.....Tropical breezes, warm water, sand underfoot, cadence of waves against the shore. Shanghai and our busy city life seems a world away.

Setaawy
Our beautiful Phnom Penh guide, Setaawy, demonstrates her well trained fingers. Cambodian girls learn to bend their fingers backwards for traditional dancing. Her story is also tragic yet hopeful. Born in 1974, just before the killing fields of Pol Pot regime, she is still awaiting the return of her father who was taken for "training" years ago while fishing. He was a professor. Everyone retreated to the countryside - especially the educated or artistically talented - and tried to hide their identities. Her mother died when she was 17. She says Cambodians can not forget, but they must forgive and move forward.

Fit for a king
The royal palace in Phnom Penh is opulent and very open to the public. It consists of several buildings, all with similar color scheme and construction to this house of the king. From 1975-1979 the king was in prison here. While this government is considered a coalition type, our guides tell us it's actually a "family government". Corrupt with many of the offices of power belonging to family members. The winners of the next election are already known. The king is more of a figurehead.

Do I have to get up???
Jack fruit smoothies, tasty and spicy Khmer cuisine, colorful table setting, floor cushions, open breezes, and fragrant flowers - all typical and wonderful Cambodian dining experiences. If we'd stayed any longer, Ty would have been stretched out sleeping under the table.

Water of life
The Mekong river flows into Cambodia from the Himalayas in Tibet. During the rainy season it flows towards the sea and each year reverses its course during the dry season to flow away from the sea.

Floating Village
From our vantage point on the roof of a fish farm, we can see the layout of the village of Chong Kneas. This is dry season, so many homes are not seen here as they are on dry land elsewhere. Interesting how they group the homes together. Maybe like a neighborhood within a village. The people who live here earn their livelihood from fishing.

Moving day
Do they really have an antenna on the roof of that home? Do you think the duck is a family pet or this weeks dinner?

The efficiency model
If boats were like cars, this one would be the VW beetle. The boat captain was happy to greet us and accept a small gift of book/pencil/eraser.

Life on dry land
This is a boat home waiting for the return of the water. Near the floating village, this home is one of many lining a dusty road leading to the water's edge of Lake Tonle Sap near Siem Reap. This family will live a portion of the year here and a portion of the year somewhere out in the water, fishing for a living.

Our limo
It was so lovely cruising around Lake Tonle Sap on these comfy chairs with the warm breeze filtering through the open sides. We toured nearly 3 hours on our journey to the remote fishing village of Kampong Phluk and back again.

Kampong Phluk
In contrast to the floating village, this fishing village stays in one place year round. Typical of Cambodian homes, these are built on stilts to help weather high water and keep above the varmits. The orange looking blankets are actually boiled shrimp drying in the sun. Oh the smells of that stroll through town.....

Dugout fun
We decided to ditch the motor noise and cruise the small canal and a floating forest via dugout. Brought back memories of the days of canoeing on Bush Lake back in Michigan - only tipping in seemed a lot less desireable since we couldn't see an inch below the surface and of course there are crocs, snakes, and who knows what else lurking below!

River front kids
Cambodian kids were so friendly every where we went. But, why does this kid on the right remind me of my brother???????

Flooded forest
Grams would call this "natures art". These crooked trees withstand the rise and fall of the river. Look closely for the high water lines on the tree trunks. Even in this dry season, we saw many fishing nets inside this maze of trees.

Angkor Wat
This is why we came. This is one of several temples we visited and the most famous of the group. Built around 1100AD by more than 25,000 people over a span of 37 years, this temple is the largest religious building in the world. Today it is primarily a tourist fascination; but some still come here to worship.

Moat
Surrounding Angkor Wat is a very large moat. Once used for protection of the temple grounds, it now provides a scenic entry and a place for local kids to fish and swim.

Our guide Sophat
No, he's not "so fat", but rather we simply called him Phat (pronounced "pot"). Everyone has a story and his is one of perseverance, forgiveness, and unlikely love. A proficent english speaker, he was able to tell us the story of losing his father, a doctor, in the Pol Pot regime. He was raised in an orphanage so that he could get an education, survived starvation with the help of his future wife, overcame the resistance of his mother to his marriage choice (arranged marriages here), worked 3 years just to pay for a wedding, and finally, found a simple life with the love of his life and his two little boys. If I were a romance novelist, this one could be turned into quite the tale.

Gate guards 1200AD
Entering the Bayon temple from the south gate, both sides of the road are lined with these "gods" holding a long serpant.