Cambodia Connections

After looking at the social and political situation in Cambodia, a traveller could be left with a disturbing perception of this tiny country. After all, Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in the world. So poor, in fact, that over 40% of the population lives under the poverty line at less than US$1 per day. There is over 1,200 street kids in Phnom Penh alone, and many more that are street working children. In the countryside, 25-40 land mine victims are claimed by the 6 million mines still hidden underground. The mines also hampers agricultural production, obviously because a field covered in mines cannot be used. Add this to a horrific modern history, where 2 million Cambodians were brutally murdered, and a grim picture of this country is painted. I did not know what to expect of my travels here before I arrived. But as a local shop owner told me that: "Cambodia is one of the poorest nations, but it's because these people are so full of humor, kindness and love that they are some of the richest people on Earth." I couldnt agree more...

I started my journey at the Poipet border crossing, also known as the dirty armpit of Cambodia. Tourists either knowingly or cluelessly pay a bribe to officials to obtain their VISA quickly. Me being me, I refused to pay...which ended up being a pretty funny introduction to the people of Cambodia. The ten officers behind the counter, who were of course sitting on their asses doing nothing, brought out hundreds of passports and told me that I would have to wait unless I paid! I started laughing so hard (of course, it was a nervous kind of laughter), and then surprisingly some of them did too! I was waved the extra fee, only after one man asked me "Why you not pay?". Still laughing and very nervous, I stupidly blurted out "Because I dont want to!" He replied "Is ok, you laugh very funny!". So if ever in a sticky situation with Cambodian officials, just start laughing like you took too many 'happy shakes' in Thailand and youll be just fine.

I then took a pick up truck to Siem Reap so I could explore the temples of Angkor. Even though I was already templed out after 8 months in Asia, it was impressive to see how great and powerful Cambodia once was. Now the temples almost signify dollar signs for a select few of Cambodian eleite, as profits seem to come before preservation. The Apsara Authority (responsible for protecting the site and its development) only get 10% of the admission revenues, and many of the professional employees are being replaced by people with the right connections and wrong credintials. Another 15% of the revenue goes to a petroleum company, and the other 75% dissapears into the black hole of government corruption.

The main reason behind Cambodias poverty is this government corruption. For example, out of the $US50 million health budget, it is rumored that only 2 million reach the hospitals and clinics. Doctors sell medicine to the black market because they are not paid enough, and some desperate patients have to sell all their belongings in order to pay for mediocre health care. Where the rest of this 50 million goes is anyones guess. In Phnom Penh, the capital, you can walk by mansions on one street and crumbling shacks on another. The state of the ministy buildings also give hint to where the money goes, as the Ministry of Finance is a glorious compound and the Ministry of Education is in less than perfect condition. Just today, I heard sirens and police escorting two black Mercedes; my moto driver said it was Prime Minister Hun Sen which he followed by making a face and then bursting into giggles!

With all the money floating around in grey space, there is little money for the welfare of those in need. At the beaches of Sihanoukville, dozens of amputees crawl past sunbathing tourists with hopes for some spare change to get by, along with children and women selling food or crafts. They always manage to strike up a conversation and the next thing you know you've bought too many bracelets and warm mangos! In Phnom Penh I was lucky to visit a small orphanage, where the leader told me that he gets no assistance from the government. Fortunately, Cambodian volunteers run the place and foreigners help fund it. After a week there, I began to feel that even though these children were orphans they had a brighter future than most children their age. They had a chance to go to school, food on their tables, a safe place to live and didn't have to work. Once entering the walls of the orphanage, all you could hear was the laughter and screams of excited children. THey love having visitors, and I reccomend stopping by if you're in Phnom Penh, even for a day.

My entire time in Cambodia was an interesting time in my travels. Never before has a country sent me into such thought and emotions. The locals that I met were facinating and allowed me to share their troubles, hopes and laughter. Almost all of them expressed that they would like to visit Canada someday and spend time in the snow-capped mountains. We both knew they could never make it, but I have to wonder what it would be like for them to see how much we have at home. My visit to Cambodia has definetly made me more aware of how lucky I am to travel, go to school, visit my family and friends, and most of all, that I can giggle with such wonderful people from such a beautiful country.

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