Battambang

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It took me just over four hours to reach Battambang by bus from Siem Reap. Although a fairly easy journey, it would have been better without the blaring sound from a DVD in Khmer, followed by some equally deafening karaoke or the driver constantly using his horn, when overtaking! Much to my surprise awaiting at the bus station, was another tuk tuk driver with my name on a sheet of paper. I hadn't told the hotel where I was coming from or at what time, so I guess when guests are expected at hotels, they send out their tuk tuk drivers with instructions to wait until the relevant people arrive!

Battambang wasn't quite as I was expecting. I had read that some of finest preserved colonial French architecture was to be found there and although I did see some, there didn't seem to be a great deal in the actual town itself. I followed a architectural walk around and although it was interesting, to me Battambang had a real run down atmosphere about it.

I stayed in a very nice hotel about 15 minutes walk from the town, where there were so few guests, that the staff were falling over themselves to be helpful. I did meet some nice people staying there; a Canadian woman, a woman from the Netherlands and a couple from Australia, which meant I had company for meals in the evening.

Apart from my walk around Battambang (some photos of which I shall upload), I saw some interesting things around the area. In the inevitable tuk tuk through some lovely rural countryside, I visited a couple of temples, Phnom Banan built in the 11th century with its hillside location offering excellent views across the surrounding countryside. 358 stone steps led up to the shaded summit and I think my poor young tuk tuk driver, who accompanied me up there, was wondering if I was actually going to make it! The other temple was Wat Ek Phnom, which is partly collapsed and in a state of disrepair. Apparently this is a very popular picnic and pilgrimage destination for Khmers, especially at festival times, and for women hoping to conceive!

On the way to these temples I stopped at a house, where they make rice paper and saw it drying on bamboo frames by the roadside and a crocodile farm, the latter of which I found rather distasteful. Many of these creatures of different ages and sizes were kept in enclosures with little water. When I asked, I was told that they are no longer returned to their natural environment but in the main are sold to Thailand, China and Vietnam. The skins of the older ones are used for making belts, bags and shoes etc and the younger ones are sold for their meat and the Chinese, in particular, use them in their medicines.

Two other things I did worth mentioning are; firstly my visit to see a performance at the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus School. The circus is part of a multi-arts centre for disadvantaged children and young people, which performs internationally acclaimed circus acrobatic acts and secondly a trip on the Bamboo train, which was fascinating. Each bamboo train is made up of a 3 metre long wooden frame covered with slats of bamboo, that rest on wheels, which is then propelled along a single line track by a small engine. Up to 15 people or three tonnes of rice can sit on the bamboo slats and you can cruise along the overgrown rural track at about 15 km an hour!

For my next blog, it will be an account of my experiences in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand so keep on reading!

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Photos

The market
This is an Art Deco building constructed in 1936 but badly in need of renovation

Restored Shophouses
The shop is situated underneath with the living accommodation above and at the back

A Chinese temple about 150 years old
There are up to a million ethnic Chinese living in Cambodia

Battambang Cinema
This was built in the early 1970's and now mainly shows new Cambodian movies

Wat Ek Phnom
A partly collapsed 11th century temple

Spirit Houses
These are seen outside many houses, shops and temples etc. Cambodians believe they provide a resting place for the spirits.

Rice paper drying in the sun
The rice paste is steamed in family workshops before drying on bamboo frames

Two trains meet
When trains going in opposite directions meet on the single track, one has to be removed to allow the other to pass!

Comments

[Maur]

Battambang
Hi jul, Battambang looks really interesting. I see what you mean about the French colonial influence. There are some lovely buildings! Well it's onto Chang Mai now. Look forward to the update on that soon. Have a great time there, will Skype soon. XX