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Published: January 6th 2012
Greetings from Battambang, Cambodia! I have now been in Battambang for 6 nights, each day and night filled with new adventures of exploration and discovery. The first 10 days of my trip was spent with the guys in Thailand, being a tourist, so I’ll let the Facebook photos and stories serve as a summary of that, but this is the experience I have been gearing up for since the summer!
I tore down my old life in Canada, and am attempting to build a new one here in Cambodia. One of the themes of this trip is to build something out of nothing, starting with only a backpack (and some savings), and building a life and a sense of belonging in a completely new place, culture, and life. This adventure starts in Battambang because I was offered a six month work term to work for a Microfinancec e Institution, CBIRD. So here is a summary of my trip so far…
Day 1 – Arrived in the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh late afternoon on the 1
st, after spending a nice New Years in Bangkok with friends and family. I immediately took a cab to the bus station in the
Tuk Tuk driver
Name was Brightcity, to try and catch a bus to Battambang, hoping to get there by midnight or so. I got to the station, and they said the next bus was at 7:30PM and would take about 5 hours. I had a few hours to kill, so a tuk tuk driver (imagine a couch on wheels with a motor) who was at the bus station offered me a 2 hour tour of Phnom Penh for $5. I agreed and was on my way! Initial reaction of Phnom Penh is very busy, crowded, and poor. Stopped at lights, children would come begging for money, reminded me a lot of India. Anyways, Phnom Penh was ok, not a place I’d spend too much time, as I prefer the less polluted cities with slightly more character. So, I arrived back at the bus station by 7, and my bus doesn’t show up till around 8:30PM. I then realize the last bust directly to Battambang was around 4pm and I was actually heading to Poipet, but it made a stop in Battambang on the way, and it was a local bus. Before I continue, let me tell you a story about Poipet. I came from Bangkok,
and the easiest way was to take a train to Poipet, which borders Thailand, and then take a bus from there. This way would have saved me hours of time, and would only cost about $15. The reason I didn’t do this, was because after reading about Poipet, I learnt that it is one of the sketchiest, most unsafe towns in Cambodia, and should be avoided at all costs if possible. SO, I get on the bus heading to this Poipet, I get up the stairs, and oh my, if looks could kill! Everyone went quiet, and just stared me down. The bus had seat numbers, and my seat was very last, in a dark crowded area with no lights, so I opted to just sit somewhere near the middle, and luckily a brother and sister who spoke English sat adjacent to me. The bus continued on, and kept making stops at smaller, seedier bus stops, filling the bus with more people heading to Poipet. I started talking to the guy, and told him I was going to get off the bus, and take a cab to a hostel, and attempt this trip again in the morning. He told me
CBIRD
place of work it will be ok, and to keep all my valuable belongings in my pocket, because when I fall asleep, they might steal my bag. After that reassuring talk, I put my passport and wallet in my pocket and held on to my belongings for dear life, preparing for the worst. So the bus finally filled up, and we were on our way. I was a little scared, but luckily the mood lightened when the TV on the bus started playing video karaoke, followed by a really strangely dubbed version of The God’s Must Be Crazy, and finally a weird Cambodian version of the Three Stooges. The bus ride was fine, I even managed to fall asleep for a few minutes without being robbed, although I was slightly disturbed by the fact that during the Three Stooges the most laughs came when one of the guys beat a woman with a gun. Well, I got to Battambang at 3am, so much for 5 hours, and when they made the stop I jumped out of my seat, grabbed my stuff, and jumped on the back of a motorbike to a hotel the guy on the bus recommended. Checked in, and watched Sunday
night football till about 5am on surprising great Cambodian public TV, who knew Cambodia loves the Vancouver Canucks and NFL football so much.
Day 2 – Woke up late, around 12pm, and wasn’t feeling the greatest. Made it to the lobby to connect to the wireless internet, send some emails to work and loved ones, then literally back to bed. Woke up around 7pm, and could not stop itching. My entire body from head to toe was itching like crazy, and I finally woke up and had these little bite marks all over my body. I freaked out a bit, checked the bed for bugs, and around my room but found nothing. I then switched rooms and pulled out a sheet that I brought from home, and took off all my clothes and wrapped myself in it and tried to fall asleep. I had a big day coming up, first day of work, had to find a place, among other things, but unfortunately I slept all day and laid in bed awake all night, or I should really say 5am, as that’s when music starts blaring in the streets and everyone wakes up to the roosters crowing.
Day
3 - I got out of bed around 7am, checked my email, and was waiting for a call from my employer to come pick me up. I felt really sick, and still had the marks all over my body, from head to toe. I felt really sick, and hadn’t eaten much in 2 days, and ended up vomiting in the bathroom for the first part of the morning. I then got in bed, and as soon as I put my head down, around 9am, I got a call from my employer. They were coming to pick me up at 10am. I dragged myself out of bed, showered, and packed quickly. Jumped on the back of the guy from CBIRD’s motorbike, and was on my way. I got to work, and felt better already, they showed me around the office, and showed me my desk, and then called the staff in for a meeting, only about 10 people total, to introduce myself and them. I have read everywhere that Cambodians are wonderfully nice people, and they did not disappoint. I showed them my bite marks and they told me I should probably go see a doctor, so Tevin, the guy I
have been communicating with and who eventually gave me the contract to go to Cambodia, took me to the skin doctor from Germany. I got to the doctor, and he diagnosed me with……….Sensitive Skin. So apparently, I had some sort of reaction to the sheets and that’s why I had the bumps everywhere. He gave me some anti-histamines and some soap for sensitive skin, and that was all. *UPDATE* I no longer have ‘bites’ all over my body, although I sometimes itch at night. Tevin, then dropped me at a café that served Western food, and I had lunch for about 30 minutes. Cambodia used to be French ruled, so lots of French architecture and café’s, which means great bread and coffee! Tevin picked me up from lunch, and took me to look for places to live. The first place he took me was brand new, opened the day before, very modern, clean, and appealing. Had a gate, with 24 hour security, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and AC. The downside was it was a bit far from the city, and work, and the price was pretty steep, he was asking for $200 a month, which is pretty much all I make!!!
Tevin then took me to a second place, which was $80 a month, and it was a room with a bed in it. It was slightly seedier, but it was really close to the city, and really cheap. After my terrifying experiences the first few days, I wanted the safe option, and was able to knock the guy down from $200 to $150, and I spoiled myself with the nicer choice. I made the deal around 5pm, after work, and moved my stuff in, settled in a bit, then fell asleep around 8pm, as I had not slept the previous two nights.
Day 4 – As soon as 5am hits, music plays so loudly from everywhere, I have no idea how or where this is coming from, but the roosters are crowing, and the music is playing, time to wake up. Oh, I start work at 730am by the way. I’m up at 6:15, and it was not until then I realized I have no hot water. I took my ‘refreshing’ cold shower, and headed outside where it was raining! It never rains during these months in Battambang! The owner of the guest house is very nice, and offered
me a ride to work on my first full day. I spent the day at work, getting comfortable with my surroundings, and some of the projects I’d be working on the next few months. During lunch, I jumped on the back of someone’s motor bike, and I was on my way to the city to grab a quick bite. I ended up at the Smoking Pot Backpackers hostel, which I read a lot about in my travel books, they have Khmer/Thai cooking classes which I will most likely be attending in the near future. Had a traditional Khmer dish, got picked up, and back to work. I told Tevin at this time I want to buy a bicycle, and he said he’d take me a bicycle shop after work. After work, I picked up a new set of wheels, a second hand silver Japanese road bicycle with a basket for $52, the Chinese bikes were $42, but they warned against buying it because of bad quality, who knew. I paid the man and made a deal to re-sell it when I move on from Battambang. I then followed Tevin home on my bicycle, only almost being hit by a motor
bike twice, which I was pretty proud of. I got home, showed off my new bike to the guest house owner, whose name I forget, quickly changed and was about to hit the town and go exploring, mainly so I know how to get to work the next day! I rode in to town, took about 15 minutes, and ended up at Gecko Café, which was another place I had read about. Great place, great atmosphere, and location and had a nice dinner and beer. I rode my bike back home, didn’t get lost, got ready for the following day, and went to bed.
Day 5 – Woke up, cold shower, no rain, jumped on my bicycle, and made it to work in 15 minutes. I now understand why everyone works so early, it is so beautiful riding a bike at 7am here, perfect weather, and very refreshing. Worked all morning, followed the Raptors game online, and went to lunch at another café in the city, picked up some supplies from the pharmacy, and back to work. After work, I went exploring to the other side of the river, where there is a beautiful park and lots of people exercising in the park after a long day at work. I rode around, and ended up at the night market, where there are plenty of vendors and stalls selling all kinds of food. I went with the safer bet and had fried rice from a lady standing on the street with a wok . It was the best meal I have had in Cambodia yet. Every night when I come home, I am greeted by the staff with a fresh piece of cut up fruit, so good!
Day 6 – As you can tell, my days are getting a bit more routine. I’ve settled in by finding a place, getting a bike, and each day I continue to explore more places. Today, went close by for lunch to a gas station with a restaurant, and then after work I explored the other side of the river. I found a gym, and for $15 a month I am now a gym member. A lot of you may find that funny if you know how much I hate gyms, but I have a lot of time on my hands, and going to a gym in Cambodia seems ok to me! Plus, I need to exercise apart from bicycling everyday! (ok the real reason is they have hot water in the change rooms!!) Just kidding, although that was a definite factor in the decision. I then ended up at Riverside Café, an old two storey home that overlooks the river. It is so nice here, and I am currently drinking 80 cent beer during happy hour and writing this blog. The atmosphere is amazing, and has a beautiful view of the river, I think I’ll be spending a lot of time here in the next little while, following the gym!
So, that’s the update. I’m having a wonderful time on my own, but definitely miss all my family, and especially Claudia. Everything I do, I think of her, and think of how much she’d love it. She’ll be here soon enough, and I can’t wait to share this journey of starting fresh with her. I didn’t’ talk much about work, but I will in an upcoming blog, as I will be more immersed in it and have a better idea of what I’ll be doing the next six months! I love Battambang, it’s beautiful, and the more I discover, the more I appreciate it for its character and beauty. My first weekend is coming up, and I think I’m going to do some local touring, check out some of the more touristy things Battambang has to offer, like the Killing caves and some of the temples. Then Monday is a holiday here, so 3 day weekend, Happy Victory Over Genocide Day Everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Until next time….
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Alicia
non-member comment
Ola Amigo! I\'m so glad to hear everything is going well. Talon and I saw Claudia the other night and she pretty much gave me the gist, but I\'m glad you are blogging! I laughed so hard to find out that the bites were sensitive skin! Only you! I\'m jealous otherwise, it sounds amazing! Can\'t wait to read more and more! Love you! p.s. I cried at the end when you started talking about Claud...awww love!