Chicken dodgems


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Asia » Cambodia » North » Battambang
November 1st 2007
Published: November 1st 2007
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What a difference a more honest tour "operator" makes to a day out. We actually got to see what we wanted, plus more.

We are now in Battambang, having put ourselves through another day of bus rides. Remember what we the ride down to Kampot was like - the ride from PP to Battambang was worse. The bus was better - much more space, air-con worked - but the driver...well...talk about aggressive...and arrogant...he sat on the horn most of the way there, and the trip was about 5 hours. Not a nice little toot toot to let someone know we were coming, but long loud blasts, even when there wasnt any reason.

Still, we made it. After dark unfortunately, which gives driving here a new edge - head / tail lights seem to be optional. All those bikes and motos with no lights, and the cars and trucks coming the other way with theirs on full beam.

Yesterday we had a chill out day. But still got up early as its much cooler out. We wandered around, looked at a few of the old French colonial buildings, the Governors Residence, a couple of Wats, the river...Ate snack food from the market on and off during the day. Its too hot to eat a proper meal, but fresh corn on the cob, spinach fritters and spring rolls are not too unhealthy! Once again we found dinner in the market to be a fraction of the price of the rooftop restaurant here, and that is cheap enough already.

Today we risked another "tour". We got ourselves two motos (mopeds) with drivers through the hostel and took off to see a few locals sights. First stop was one of the many black market petrol places to fill the motos. Fuel here is about 500 riels / US$0.12 cheaper than at the petrol stations, but that can be a big deal to people. Its not the cleanest, nicest fuel though. We started our chicken dodgems by riding through small villages and rice paddys, dodging not only chicken but children and cows too. It took about 30 minutes to get to our first real stop, we werent going too fast as the roads are a bit pot-holed. We stopped at Wat Phnom Sampeau ("sailboat mountain") and the Killing Caves. We were required to hire a small boy to show us around the
Part of procession around the marketPart of procession around the marketPart of procession around the market

Love the back end of the tractor pulling this thing!
hillside as there were lots of paths and no signs. Keeping the locals in work I guess, and the kid assured us he did go to school in the afternoons. The Killing Caves were very peaceful considering their history - the Khmer Rouge executed at least 10,000 people there, bringing them in by the truck load. Apparently the locals living there at the time didnt realise what was happening. The main part of the cave now has a big buddha and a couple of shrine type things in, one of which contains quite a lot of human bones. The hole people were shot above before falling into the cave is now surrounded by bush and quite pretty. Further up the hill is the Wat - only three years old as all the old ones were destroyed during the civil war.

Another half hour through fields took us to Wat Banan. This is much older, over 1000 years old, and looking every day of it. The stones are worn and falling down, the carvings are becoming very weather worn, but at least it was old and not full of bright paintings and gold (or gold coloured). It is hard to describe to once again you will have to wait for us to be able to load up some pics. Both places were up the top of hills, and our drivers (Chin Chin and Ramsey) left us at the bottom. The second place, Wat Banan, you couldnt drive up anyway, only walk up the millions of steps 😊.

From here we went to see some fruit bats, loads of them loudly chirping away in a tree. Ramsey said people eat them, and drink their blood mixed up with something we couldnt quite understand. Yuk! The noise and flapping wings was because they had babies tucked under their wings and were cooling them and singing to them. Worst singing we've heard since the bus ride to Battambang!

Lastly was the most fun, and most relaxing as all we had to do was sit there. It was a ride on the "Bamboo Train". This is something people here have created to get them around along the railway line. Only one "real" train comes along each week, so they have gotten hold of some wheels and made a platform from metal and bamboo (hence the name). Its powered by a lawn mower sized motor, and bangs and clunks its way along the tracks. The tracks are a bit misshapen now, warped by age and lack of maintenance, but the ride was fun. There is only one track, so when you meet something coming the other way, the platform heading towards Battambang direction is the one that has to dismantle and move off the tracks. Not as hard or time consuming as it sounds.

So now we are back in town, thinking about where to go for dinner. Do we try the market again? Or the stalls along the river front? Or shall we just treat ourselves to dinner on the roof here?

Not a bad day out for a 10th wedding anniversary eh?!?!


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1st November 2007

Congratulations!!!
What a great way to celebrate! :) Josie

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