Blogs from Burma, Asia


Part 1 Travel by its very nature transports us to a different place. However there are fewer and fewer places that have the power to transport us to a different time and in doing so, give us a glimpse of a very different way of life. Burma (aka Myanmar) is one of those rare remaining countries that makes the visitor feel as if they have not just left their home, but also the present time. In fact all the guidebooks and articles I've read, inevitably use the phrase "time warp" to describe this place. And while the 21st century is banging at the door, it is still very easy to imagine that you are in British colonial times or even earlier. My visit here has left me with images that I will remember forever. Dry plains ... read more

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After what has seemed like months of successive, agonisingly long journeys which have taken us from A to B on our travels, we opted for the less scenic, but certainly more manageable six hour bus ride from Mandalay to the town of Nyuang U in Bagan. Originally, our plan was to taken the government owned and operated slow boat down the Ayeyarwaddy River to Nyuang U. However, in this instance we simply did not in any way desire the 5am start nor the fifteen hour travel time. I could have fabricated a falsehood at this juncture, painting ourselves as democracy demanding crusaders who would not allow a penny of our hard earned money to fall into the pockets of the tyrannical military Burmese government, thereby giving them the proverbial middle finger – but we all know ... read more

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The third and final stop of January: Burma(officially Myanmar now according the the military dictatorship currently in charge...the locals still call it Burma) This is going to be a long one, it was an amazing trip with tonnes of little stories. Once again i'll put the topic of the sections in bold in case you want to pick and choose what you read. OK, so the evening of the 18th my father and I (he had decided to join but a couple of weeks earlier) settled into a hotel and headed for the night market for dinner. We settled down at a non-descript stall with some rather delectable looking grilled fish and pointed at them emphatically. They were very good and cheap, and as we tucked in, from the group of locals we were sharing the ... read more

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K - We traveled from Bagan to Kalaw on the worst bus of our trip to date. We are used to uncomfortable chicken busses but they are usually cheap. This bus had cost us $14 each and my seat was collapsing (poor guy behind), there was no suspension to speak of and to top it all it left at 4.30am – and we were stuck on it for nearly 10 hours. One of those days when you question the decision to travel on a budget! It was worth it though. Kalaw was the start point for a 3-day trek to Lake Inle and it was fantastic. Our group of 3 French people, a Lithuanian, a Swiss and 3 Brits - all of different ages (21-58) - gelled really well and we had a great laugh. The ... read more

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The awkward moment when a saffron-clad monk approaches, stoic in tranquil surroundings, he looks you straight in the eyes and asks, without joke or jest: “Excuse me sir, what is lovely jubbly?” “Mandalay” has been a known entity to me since who knows when, the same way as Timbuktu is known by name but other familiarities such as depiction and, most importantly, place remained vague. What I had created as a picture of Mandalay sometime in my childhood; a vivid image of the Orient painted in shades of gold, must have been inspired by cheap, oil on canvas depictions found throughout Asia and far beyond. In hindsight, I seem to have unconsciously married the exotic name “Mandalay” with equally exotic images of the many-templed Bagan. In truth, Mandalay exists as a dirty, busy city devoid of ... read more

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To say Inle Lake is breathtakingly beautiful just doesn’t do this place justice... We had arrived in Inthein just after midday, seeking refuge from the scalding sun and its seething heat after what had been a gruelling three day, 60km hike across the Burmese countryside from Kalaw. Coincidentally, the local market was scheduled to be in town on the morning of our arrival, so we had rose early from our monastic (literally) lodging and hiked at a decent pace to reach Inthein market on the western shores of Inle Lake. When we arrived however, Amy and I and indeed our fellow hikers were simply too exhausted to really take everything in around the hustle and bustle of food vendors and souvenir stalls. Rather, we settled ourselves with what reprieve a local restaurant could provide and quietly ... read more

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In perhaps any other country, being swindled out of $100 (and almost another $100 further) on your very first day in a new country may set an early tone for an unpleasant stay, but then Burma isn’t just any other country... After a short stay in Yangon, a frigid bus ride later we were abandoned roadside in the icy chill of Kalaw, a former hill station retreat made popular by the conquering British Empire in the late 19th century. Today Kalaw exists as a peaceful town, centred around a market where locals from surrounding villages make daily visits to buy food for their families and partake in some neighbourhood gossip. For foreigners, Kalaw exists as a starting point for treks to those surrounding villages hidden away in the hills or for the more ambitious trekker, for ... read more

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Now traveling with Julie, we met Christoph and Elizabeth in Bagan. The two of them from Austria were backpacking together taking a five month holiday from work. Over dinner the four of us decided we would head to Kalaw and do a three day trek to Inle Lake. The direct bus to Kalaw was sold out so we decided to catch a bus to Meiktila where we would then transfer to another bus to Kalaw. It sounded simple enough. The first fifteen minutes of the bus ride were normal, no problems. But it soon became apparent there was not enough space on the bus to fit everyone. In the main cabin there about 50 or more of us piled in, and on the rooftop climbed another twelve, all of whom happen to be monks. For six ... read more

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Le groupe de pèlerins de l'Orient s'est aminci considérablement, je suis restée toute seule! (je sais qu'il y a de centaines de milliers de jeunes qui font ça, mais c'est une première pour moi!). L'arrivée a Yangon s'est fait a la noirceur (évidement il y a eu du retard, 1,5 h, mais j'étais avertie par les guides de voyage; le vol aurait même pu être annulé). Il y a une invasion incroyable de touristes, tout le monde se réjouit des récentes ouvertures et tout le monde a peur que les choses vont changer trop vite entraînant la perte de l'authenticité birmane. Alors c'est l'invasion. ce que fait que les prix ont augmenté, le taux de change a chuté et les "backpacker's" sont pleins a craquer. J'ai du poser ma tète dans des hôtels de catégorie moyenne, ... read more

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Leaving Mandalay, I opted for the slow ferry heading to Bagan. With a 5:30 am departure, it was only $10. The ride should have been between eleven and fifteen hours, though it slowly turned into seventeen hour cruise down river. Lined with Burmese families, they spread themselves across the floorboards laying on their mats. Families huddled together draped in their handmade blankets to stay warm. I wasn't expecting Myanmar to be this cold. Roosters crowed and the sun beganto rise as we slowly pulled out of the dock leaving Mandalay behind. As the morning progressed I could see the families were very interested in the handful of foreigners along for the ride. The people I met were kind and generous. Sure, some of them wanted to sell me blankets, and food, but how else would they ... read more

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