Myanmar 4: Inle Lake, and...

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Myanmar Part 4

This 'blog' is the fourth describing our time in Myanmar (Burma to some).


If you missed earlier 'episodes' in this series, you can find #1 here , #2 here , and #3 here .

We've previously described the horrors of trying to use modern technology at 'dial-up' speed in Myanmar. We initially wrote this 'blog' while in Myanmar, and published it without pictures. Since our return to Australia, we've uploaded pictures to show aspects of our adventure.

As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, Left Hand 'click' on it to enlarge.

Sunday 13th March 2011.

...Inle Lake

We 'ended' blog 3 with the comment that we were pursuing options to go view Inle Lake. Like so often, there were a variety of prices, with each advocating they had the best option. From our perspective at NyuangShwe, all the wooden canoe style boats looked the same, all had the same little Ikea style wooden seats, and the motors all looked the same. Mmmmm, what to do?

We'd befriended a Munich couple as we entered NyuangShwe and we together chose to opt for a more expensive option offered by the accommodation owner who claimed her 'tour' was better than the cheaper options. We asked that the driver not join the throng of other tourist canoes, but try and keep us away from the crowd.

Departing at 8am, the overcast grey morning was decidedly cold. So, with extra T-shirts and all our cover on, the boat-driver headed down the river to the Lake. 20 minutes later, the river opened up to a vast waterbody. The scale of the waterbody caught us by surprise. We'd been told that the trip from the end of the river to the first 'attraction' a local 5th day market would take about an hour so we all huddled down to take in the vast view and minimise the impact of the cold air.

Along the way we observed the 'famous' one oar boatmen (see also the little video, link above). The Intha peoples have devised a way for a boatman to use one leg to paddle the canoe, while also using a fishing net. With two arms needed for the fishing net, the boatman uses one leg for stability while standing on one of the (approx) 900mm square platforms located at each end. He then wraps his thigh and shin around the oar, and uses it just like a canoeist would use a paddle. Strange, but effective.

After a while, the boatman steered our motorised canoe into the floating gardens.

Inle Lake is known for the floating gardens. The Intha peoples have developed a method whereby they can harvest flowers and vegetables from garden beds floating on the top of the lake surface. We observed that by placing bamboo poles around floating weeds (much of it water hyacinth), they spread on the surface a water weed harvested from the shallow waters. This appears to set like an impervious layer. On top of that they spread silt also harvested from the wetland shallows. This 'bed' is then tethered to the wetland floor by the use of long bamboo poles stuck into the mud below. Clearly, the development of these floating gardens has evolved over years, and the area under 'cultivation' is immense. As we motored gently along canals through the 'gardens', we could see rows of flowers, tomato's, corn, beans, and all sorts of food/flower plants. It appears that once the plant seedlings have emerged, the 'owner' needs to water the gardens to establish the plants. Once established, the plants appear to then get their water from the lake water below the garden.

Eventually the boatman 'parked' the canoe in a now very narrow waterway. Ahead, was a major logjam of canoes. Here, we were told, was access to the Thandaung market. Alighting, we walked along embankments for a while before eventually coming to a bridge and then a formed path. Local hilltribe peoples - Pa-0 - had clustered, selling small bundles of chopped (fire)wood to the marshland residents. Interestingly, the preferred wood is Eucalypt; there is much planted (and emerging from seed). Eventually we arrived at the market. For us, these markets have many commonalities. But, special was the blacksmith, the gambling tent, and the split yellow pea tofu.

The blacksmith had a charcoal fire fed by bellows constructed from two bamboo tubes with rooster feather wrapped plungers. The blacksmith's aide would slowly pump the bellows as the blacksmith heated up the farmers' various cutting instruments; scythe blades, choppers, knives, spades, chippers, axes, etc.. When compared to the western approach, these blacksmiths were really efficient in the way they approached their task.

While the women got on with trading/buying, the gambling tent was the drawcard for the men. A large mat comprised six huge squares, each painted with a day of the week symbol; pig, chicken, dog, etc. On this mat, gamblers would place their bets in cash. Beside the mat was a 1 1/2 metre high wooden shelf on which rested three 300mm sized dice; each face holding one of the corresponding symbols. When all bets were down, each of the dice were singularly rolled off the shelf. It appears that 3 different matches meant bets in corresponding spaces doubled the bet value. Two similar signs meant a tripling, while 3 corresponding signs was the 'jackpot'. We didn't see this occur so don't know the prize. At each dice roll there was a loud hoot, and after the third dice roll everyone joined in. While it seemed pandemonium to us, the locals were all cheerful, happy, and seemed to all know the setup.

Near this village, we were told a community of Tuang Yo people grew yellow peas (as we'd use for soup). From this, they make a tofu. Once made, the tofu is cut into pieces and encrusted with ground pea. We noticed a Shan woman pouring a white thick liquid into undersized egg rings on a hotplate. Feeling peckish, we bought a couple on spec. As they were very hot, we had to wait for them to cool before trying. As it was time to return to the boat, we carried them with us.

As the boatman 'poled' the canoe out of the narrow waterway to a point where he could turn around, we tentatively tried our purchase. We discovered it was made of rice flour and condensed milk. The cooking process had allowed the flour to rise, and the milk made them lightly sweet. They were great and we secretly lamented only having bought two.

The boatman again travelled through the floating gardens and made his way to a pagoda, and a lunch stop. Here was a tourist bottleneck. Lunch over, we inspected the pagoda. Inside were three 'blobs' covered in gold. They looked more like golden elephant poo than anything worthy of worship. Apparently, a long time ago 3 small jade Buddha's were placed in the shrine in the centre of the building. Over the (hundreds?) years, the application of gold leaf has resulted in a totally misshapened set of Buddha's.

The boat driver took us to a 'silversmith' shop. We'd read there were a plethora of these types of attractions in this area; silversmith's, goldsmith's, an umbrella factory, etc. Ushered into a room we found several bench-tables, each with the token silversmithing equipment. At 3 of the tables were people fiddling with silver. For us, what a con. After this we were ushered into a room full of tables dripping with overpriced jewelery. Around the tables many westerners oggling at the spectacle! There was no way the 3 'silversmiths' made the gear, and it appeared more likely the jewelery was imported from goodness knows where (China perhaps?). We collectively decided we wanted no more of this chicanery and asked the boatman to avoid the rest.

Fortunately, the boatman heeded our request and took us quite far south to a temple area on the side of the hill at Thuang Tho. To get here, we had to leave the expanse of the Inle lake area, and follow the rivercourse through the marshlands. This rivercourse was cluttered on each side with houses resting on 15 metre teakwood poles. For us, this was another highlight. From many houses, children would lean out and wave 'hello'. Locals were getting on with their daily lives and it appeared as though we were voyeurs into their lives.

At Thuang Tho, we climbed the countless steps under the shaded roof cover to eventually get to the temple. Here were many Stupa's. Most were the round form we'd become accustomed to in Myanmar. But a couple were based on a square platform. And, unlike the plain cement form, these square ones had figures adorning the faces; some nude, some clad. Clearly, these represented a form of Buddhism different to the current Theravada form. Perhaps they were styled on Hindu tenets? Or was it Mahyana Buddhism?

The view from the temple area revealed the dimensions of the lake area - both in the wet (now cultivated 'farmland') and the dry.

Our return was just as interesting, with a diversion to a temple where monks had trained cats to jump up about 600 - 900mm through a ring (for food). Perhaps the most entertaining aspect were the faces/attitude of the various (western) spectators. The remainder of the journey 'home' in the light of a Myanmar sunset 'made' the day'.










[h3 left]Monday.

...cycling

After a breakfast of toast'n'eggs for one, and Shan noodles for the other, we headed off to rent a bike. Shan noodles are made of a combination of regular rice flour and sticky rice flour. Hence, they have a very good body. We were told the Shan typically serve the noodles at breakfast in a light chicken broth, with chopped greens, and a spicy nut 'dressing'.

After the rigours of bus travelling, etc., being back on the bicycles made us feel comfortable; we could choose our travel 'destiny'. With a little map provided by the hotel owner, we wandered out of NyuangShwe and further afield. Passing sugar cane farms, and the occasional (very small) sugar factory, we eventually came across a winery. Leaving our bikes at the gate, we trudged up the steep hill to the 'winery' and cafe. After the full-on sunshine, the air-conditioned cool of the winery cellar was extremely enjoyable. We were told the proprietor is a wealthy businessman (Junta member?), who began about 8 years ago with a Frenchman as vintner. We found the recently produced white and red wine vintages generally fruity, but shallow in palate. Aged wine appears not to be pursued here (maybe need to make a quick return on investment). Perhaps the most enjoyable attribute was the vista across the Inle Lake 'plain', and a remarkable Avocado & Lettuce salad.

Tuesday.

...more cycling

Tuesday opened up quite bleak, so we were less than quick to 'hit the byways' on our bikes. After the drizzle cleared, we headed for what we were told was a much visited monastery. Despite the weather, it was a pleasant ride there. The 'attraction' is an aged large teakwood (central) building with large round (light) openings and corresponding round shutters. And, it was constructed in the Shan style (which now means much to us).

Despite the attraction of the monastory, with busloads of European visitors, it was a side building that attracted our attention (for no tourists were entering). Here was a brick temple with a mazelike internal configuration. Each of the corridors led to another, and held motifs or paintings of Buddha. Just as we entered the first darkish corridor, a few young monk 'trainee's' came running past us. They must have been about 10 to 12 yo. With robes flying, we were more attracted to the plastic facemasks they were wearing; spiderman, superman, etc., etc. It transpired that they were using this temple to play a juvenile form of cowboys'n'indians. One would be selected as the cowboy, who would wait the obligatory 100 or so seconds, and would then go sneaking around trying to 'air' shoot the others. Once 'shot', the trainee monk would have to writhe to the ground. Unlike Australian kids, there appeared no dispute as to the efficacy of the shot.

Wednesday.

...no cycling

During Tuesday night, we could hear the rain begin. The sound gladdened us as we thought it may remove the Myanmar smoke. Though the previous day presented with some drizzle, that wasn't enough to diminish the smoke filled air of Myanmar (or NyuangShwe). We'd been getting quite 'over' the continual aroma of smoke. The smoke appears to come from four major sources; the slash'n'burn activities of the hilltribe farmers; the burn of 'unwanted' timber following deforestational logging into charcoal for city households; wood cooking fires; and the burning of household rubbish each evening in the urban areas.

The rain continued throughout the night and into the day. And, it was cold and windy as well. For us, it was not a day to venture out. We even organised a Shan traditional meal 'inhouse' for dinner; spicy bean soup, avocado dip with puffed rice crisps (they're about 30cm across in size, with sesame seeds), rice with a beef curry and fried vegetables.

Thursday.

...to Bagan, and!!!!

We'd explored the various options to get to Bagan - which is due west from NyuangShwe (on Highway 4). After the previous experience of Highway 4, we didn't feel like a repeat episode. Instead, we had to go 25km to HeHo to catch a plane to Mandalay, and then on to Nyuang Oo (the airport for Bagan). The plane was scheduled to depart at 3:30pm (the only service) but didn't actually leave till about 7pm. Given that the rain had cleared the sky, we were really looking forward to the flight to gain a 'birds eye' perspective of central Myanmar. Oh, ...well!!!

We 'filled' time catching another view of several NyuangShwee sights - especially as it was a 5th day market day in town. The narrow canal access to the markets appeared to be filled with every boat from the Lake.

The leg of the flight to Bagan from Mandalay comprised only 12 people, all westerners. At the Bagan airport, we were asked to present our passports. For a domestic flight, we'd assumed this was unnecessary. But, then, this is a Junta state. When giving the passports we were then asked to give US$10 each. We protested, they flicked our passports at us, so we picked them up and walked out. We secured the last taxi to take us the the town of New Bagan and our pre-booked accommodation. As we settled into the back seats, a man ran over to the driver and said something. The driver told us we had to pay the $20 before he could take us. After some conversation, where we remained resolute, the driver went and sat under a big tree and began talking to another.

After a while (now around 9pm), we figured that the Junta would not let him drive, and as the town of Nyuang Oo was some 2km away we ought walk there and try our luck for a taxi. As we left the airport, a motorcyclist approached us and asked if we wanted a ride. We arranged for another to join him and together we'd go to New Bagan. Just as the other motorist arrived, a Junta 'man' came to warn them off. We continued walking. We noticed several Junta people come by. Eventually we got to Nyuang Oo, and went under a shoplight to look at Lonely Planet for directions to an hotel. The shop owner came out seeking to help. Just then, a Junta man arrived and went into the shop. Something was said and the shop owner went back inside. As we departed, we noticed a shady entrance to a property and ducked in there. We were afraid that every point of contact would be denied. We wanted to book into an hotel before the Junta man arrived. That way, we could get some sleep. Eventually we scurried out and down a laneway to try and avoid being followed. We must have given them the slip as we were able to get our way to a comfortable hotel (without hassle), book in and get a good night's sleep.


We'll leave our description of our Bagan trevails to the final 'blog' - located #5 click here .








Cheers


😱

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Photos

Mmmmmm! Are they safe?
Check out the size of the little \'seats\'!!

Buddha
Somewhere back in time these were carved images of Buddha. The application of gold leaf has altered the appearance.

Inle Lake village
After the rains, these houses will be marooned.

Fun Monks
Trainee Monks revert to 'norm'

Cheroot anyone?
Cigar-like products made of tree leaves (with some tobacco) are popular.