Blogs from Dhaka, Bangladesh, Asia
May 1st 2012
Many years ago when Hena realized she had to register the births of her two daughters she decided she would make it easier for herself. If she had to make up dates anyway (she couldn't remember exactly when she'd had either girl) she might as well be strategic about it: Johora's, May 1st, Rahima's, May 2nd. One cake, one party to arrange, twice the girly excitement. Everybody wins. In America kids are usually pretty pissed if they have to share a birthday with a relative or a major holiday--it means less attention for them. But for Rahima, who is turning ten, and Johora, two years younger, the formula somehow works. So much so that I'm pretty sure I just witnessed the most fun ever had in one birthday celebration. Dancing on the bed, balloon popping, glitter ... read more
April 23rd 2012
I have arrived--back in the warm, sweaty embrace of Bangladesh. I'm not sure that this trip will produce any proper blogs, but I thought that I'd share some photos as a start. I spent my first few evenings in Dhaka with Hena and her girls. These photos are what happens when you give a point and shoot to two snap happy camera novices--a view of their own home in Kairal slum, Dhaka.... read more
March 14th 2012
Today I visited the World Heritage listed mosques scattered around the town of Bagerhat, the drive was very scenic and the roads for the most part surprisingly good. Bangladesh is very clean and very green in comparison to India, the roads are almost deserted and pollution is minimal. I visited the Shait Gumbad Mosque built in 1459 and the largest and most magnificent traditional mosque in Bangladesh, the Singair Mosque and the Ronvijoypur Mosque which has the largest dome in the country still none of where a patch on the Mughal architecture of India. It was then on to Khan Jahan’s tomb and the Dargah Mosque which was surrounded by a solid wall and wasn’t very exciting despite the blessing I received from the imam and the pretty nearby lake with the crocodiles. It was then ... read more
January 20th 2012
'Tell me why are we, so blind to see, that the ones we hurt, are you and me’ - from the song ‘Gangsta’s Paradise’ by Coolio CNGs, four-wheel drives, pick-up drop-off cars, dogs, pedestrians, the tempos-of-death stopping suddenly, randomly and askew, and the seemingly out of control buses are there to dodge like bullets. Leaping over the median strip like a cheetah, slithering by the edge of the fence that’s proudly sponsored by a local bank like a boa constrictor, there’s the menace of the mega-conglomeration of choking smoking motorised mayhem once more to brave, on the far side. The trials that need to be overcome for a few groceries! The Bronx, Harlem or Dhanmondi: yo! We’re brothers living in the ’hood. The tea stall guy is on the corner. ‘You close up,’ I threaten him, ... read more
January 12th 2012
The Rocket, palaces and two world heritage sites This blog entry is about the second half of my journey in Bangladesh. If you would like to read about the first half but haven't yet you can follow this link. First I'd like to write a little about the traffic in Bangladesh. If I am to describe the traffic in Bangladesh the first word I come to think about is 'nightmarish', and after that the words 'noisy', 'crowded' and 'scary' come to mind. A bus ride could be described as a series of chicken races while honking the horn like crazy. To give you an idea of what it is like I have shot a short film from inside a car. The film is really bad, I know, but it really is the sound that is important ... read more
January 2nd 2012
Tra le poche informazioni di prima mano che sono riuscito a raccogliere su questo paese, dimenticato dai piu' se non in occasione del puntuale, catastrofico ciclone che lo investe in media ogni 5 anni, la piu' preoccupante e' senza dubbio il fatto di dover essere costantemente al centro dell'attenzione, il soggetto preferito di una moltitudine di sguardi allibiti, come se un extraterrestre fosse atterrato in piazza del duomo a Milano. Dopotutto come puo' non essere cosi' in un paese di piu' di 150 milioni di abitanti che raramente vedono passare dalle loro parti viaggiatori occidentali dalla pelle bianca, dal fisico imponente (i bengalesi sono alti in media un metro e cinquanta, lo si capisce dalla distanza media tra i sedili sugli autobus....) e soprattutto...turisti con molto tempo da perdere! Desideroso di passare il piu' possibile inosservato, ... read more
November 29th 2011
I can’t say I’m much of a hijacker, which in Dhaka means mugger.To the best of my recollection I did it only once, making a pistol with my fingers. I can’t look much like a hijacker either, assuming hijackers have a look, since even after demanding the money I had to announce what I was doing. But once the activity was established, my chosen victim reached into his pocket without hesitation and pushed a wad of change into my pistol cum hand. With chaotic Dhaka for a backdrop sometimes it’s the little instances of sweet madness that give so much sanity. For example: me and Karim. He was really rather innocent when he first came to the city, the doorman with the great misfortune of having been assigned to work on my building. He had all ... read more
October 1st 2011
It pulls to the side of the road at the start of a downpour. With a push and a click of the metal sidebars the hood is lowered and fixed into place. A plastic sheet of some impromptu variety is served across passengers’ legs just as a waiter spreads tablecloths in the expectation of diners. The motion re-starts and the journey continues, with the driver, often uncovered himself, giving in to the drenching delivered by the sky. There’s virtue in putting one’s own comfort second. There’s merit in caring for strangers. In the tyres and mud guards, from handlebars to hood and right down to the panel of imagination, the canvas of rickshaw art at the back, in the rickshaw is wisdom. Often called ‘rishka’ by the villagers, every day chapters of this vehicle’s sacred texts ... read more
July 27th 2011
Now that it’s apparent that CNG drivers were only using the meter as a special tribute to the Cricket World Cup and Dhaka’s back to her usual self, it’s hardly surprising when inching through the jams that one’s thoughts are sometimes given over to the metro dreaming. With the regularity of newspaper announcements on the subject I can’t be the only one. But what sort of metro will it be? The number and width of the rails, the carriage and platform dimensions, above ground, below ground: let the engineers tackle such trivialities. More important are the cultural dimensions, for in any city the nature of the mass transit system is a window into the community’s psyche. A metro system is far more than transport. It’s a cultural statement. In Switzerland trains have a habit of leaving ... read more
July 1st 2011
Mark Twain introduces the Robinsons After tourin' the Outback and Adelaide with the Noolans, I figure I'll stop a spell in Canberra to say howdy to Jan and David Robinson. I reckon if the Noolans be representing the typical, straightforward Australian Pete, than the Robinsons break just about every other Aussie stereotype. Now, I taught with these folks in Dhaka for two years-2007-2009- at an international school. Jan is a firecracker. Petite, bright and fresh, and brimming with life, this lady wore her students down to the bone with her curiosity and activity. On weekends she pull me along to the Australian Embassy for a sparklin' glass of Aussie champagne...or two glasses...or more. No Foster's beer for this lady, she'd lean against David, chirping about her weekly adventures while sipping her bubbly. David, a rector close ... read more
