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Published: October 16th 2010
On Wednesday, I had a Bangladeshi style holiday to Cox's Bazar - the longest unbroken beach in the world, and Bangladesh's number one tourist destination. Now, in your mind, this may strike up images of golden sands, beautiful quiet beach life and cocktails by the sea. Let me assure you that this is not the case.
Cox's is an overdeveloped and pretty ugly beach resort that has all the charm of the Costa Del Sol, or my favourite, Sunny Beach in Bulgaria. It caters to the middle class Bangladeshis who wish for sun and sea, but without a care for the environment. Monstrously huge hotel complexes spring up at every turn, and the local people are left poor and without proper homes in the wake of this place. At the beach itself, as a foreigner, i was costantly stared at, asked 'what is your country' and offered all manner of tacky trinkets which i had to refuse with a 'lagbe na' (I don't need). Rickshaw wallahs accosted me at every corner, when i attempted a walk on my own, i was followed by a charming, yet annoying, wallah who demanded money just for following me. Suffice it to say, he
Inani Beach
A much more secluded and enjoyable beachgot no taka from me, just a polite telling off. The restaurants cater the same easy food, and without alcohol to numb the pain of a grim resort, Cox's isn't particularly wonderful compared to the beach resorts we Westerners are used to.
Saying that, however, i can see exactly why the Bangladeshis' love the place. It is completely different to anything else in the country, and being able to swim in the, albeit rough, Bay of Bengal is a novelty. The ridiculous enthusiasm with which middle class Bangladesh greets Cox's is something to be admired and loved. It was relaxing, and at least lovely to get out of the busy city for a while. Getting out of the town itself was even more rewarding. I followed the coast south for a long journey on a terrible road, but saw some amazing sights. Tiny huts and villages nestled among the trees; fishing boats that looked more like pirate ships ready to risk a trip out to sea; endless paddy fields almost ready for harvest and, everywhere on the side of the road, smiling and beautiful children amazed at the sight of a white man visiting their area. We even went
to Inani Beach, one of the many smaller parts of the long beach, which was totally underdeveloped. Were it not for the sun and heat, i could easily have spent a day there watching the sea and feeling almost entirely alone.
So, to sum up. If you fancy a beach holiday with all the trappings of Western tourism, head to the Costa Del Sol, you will be far better serviced. But, if you want to experience just how middle class Bangladesh spends it time, head to Cox's. The Buddhist temple and Burmese market are worth a trip, i certainly enjoyed seeing them, but don't plan on spending more thant two nighst there. The terrible hotel rooms (mine was particularly unpleasant) will put you off, as will the long, uncomfortable and terrifying bus journey.
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Bon-Dog
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nice review- tho i do think you were a little too positive about it haha. bus journey was the best bit, Will!!