Blogs from Chittagong, Bangladesh, Asia
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According to astronomers the red ball sun is only medium-sized. Among stars it is unimpressive yet to our planet it brings life. It’s a standard arrangement, in Hatiya, in Bangladeshi villages, the central courtyard area of dirt surrounded by several modest houses of wood and tin or thatch. There are the mud verandas the women have patiently patted into place at the front of each house, where the roofs overhang the building; and the small windows of carpenter’s hands with frames that aren’t entirely square and shutters that don’t absolutely meet. There are trees including coconut palms and bananas in the patch of ground carved out away from the road amongst the rice fields. It’s typical, the household where Nobir and his extended family live. In the evenings when the hurricanes are turned down in each ... read more
Beach, boats, tribal people and fish Here comes the first blog entry from my latest travels. This time the destination was Bangladesh. This is my first visit to Bangladesh and it is one that I have looked forward to for many years. Unfortunately the photos on this and the two following blog entries are less good than they usually are. First there was hazy and cloudy weather some days and that made the photos a bit less colourful than usual. I also had a mishap with my camera on one of the first days in the country and that messed up many of my photos. I hope you still think the blog entry is worth reading. I landed in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. My plans were to see the rest of the country first and ... read more
It was business. The company had sent their guy from mainland Noakhali to liaise with Situ’s distributorship. He thought he was doing it tough in Hatiya, without unabated electricity, without all the mod-cons. There was a big chair for the office in which only he sat and from there, in manner and clothes, and not least with his preference for the English language, he sought to put his stamp of town-man company-man quality on display, presumably for the islanders to take benefit from. Although he was Bangladeshi, he spoke only in English and on that account Situ responded only in Bangla. He showed some degree of sympathy about it: he must have known it can be hard for people living in the deep islands to polish their English. It happened while I was in Sydney: he ... read more
In a new language, words are like stepping stones across a stream. The more words you have the easier it is to cross, the less you have to jump; the more words there are, the easier it is to make Bangla-shaped friendships in a village. So it was when first learning Bangla in Hatiya; even now there’s a limit on what can be expressed. And when words are few, they have to count. ‘Goru Chor’ or cow thief: under normal circumstances it’s not a term of endearment. It started with pointing in the beginning. The tea shop customers would indicate something and name it. I’d parrot. There were the easy words: chair, table, hurricane, glass and cup, with only the different pronunciations to master. There were the three versions of ‘you’, aamne, toie or tui in ... read more
Cousin Arif knew there were guests and on that account the likelihood of tasty food was high. Stepping through the doorway and without a word by way of greeting he positioned himself on the chair beside the table and said, ‘give rice.’ His predictions proved correct and a rice and fish lunch soon appeared from the back room. In Bangladeshi villages including in Hatiya, doors are most often open. I don’t remember Kohinoor but she remembered me. She was just one amongst the flock of children thereabouts whose childhood memories feature a bit of ‘staring at the foreigner’ as a not irregular past hobby. She was Monir’s sister she said and I’d eaten lunch at their house. It was years ago but an occasion I can recall. Kohinoor’s become a woman with her family of her ... read more
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It was not random. It came about from the first visit to Bangladesh in 1996, three weeks, as a backpacker. Bangladesh was my fifteenth country. I still can’t explain why it was so, but on leaving at the end of the three weeks, my heart was so heavy with regret and my mind so weighted in the certainty Bangladesh would be of importance in my life, that it remained unfinished, that it’s surprising the tyres of the bus didn’t burst as it rumbled towards the Benapole border. I can say this: it shouldn’t have been so. Of the other fourteen, of course Australia was home and Norway, where I’d spent a year, I called my second home. There was a day far from me now when I’d wandered across the tarmac in a small Norwegian regional ... read more
The Virtue of Giving, the Art of Receiving
Published: March 31st 2011Asia » Bangladesh » Chittagong » HatiyaI remember so many invitations, though it was in later years that it really got out of control. There were occasions when someone would want a time for lunch or breakfast or dinner and, flicking through the mental obligation list, after some minutes I’d suggest a week into the future: the earliest vacant meal slot. I remember the demands from my friends in the village to the south for a fixed time. For many years I used to refuse to nominate one, knowing all the trouble that would result: five courses minimum, slaughtered chickens, no expense spared. It was the same with Selim who used to invite me to a banquet every single year. Initially I used to refuse him too: all the trouble his wife would go to, the finances of a rickshaw driver and ... read more
I faced the days of May without the luxury of a fan that year, living in a tin house transformed into a mini-furnace by the season. I would wake drenched in sweat and as soon as possible pull up a chair under a tree, the coolest location available, for inside was hotter than out. There wasn’t the joy of the pond in that stifling pre-monsoon month when water levels are low and the water of a dubious freshness. Most days there wasn’t even in the air the slightest stirring. Now too, post-solar, barring the handheld pencil-battery-powered variety, you won’t find an electric fan in Hatiyan village households, and May punches still, with all its brawn. There were not infrequent, not common bouts of diarrhoea as my stomach became Bengali-tough, and usually some measure of skin irritation ... read more
Well, its nearly time for me to pack up all my things and leave this wonderful city that has been my home for three months. Its a time of the entire cacophony of emotions - i feel sad to be leaving such wonderful people that have become my family and friends, but also i feel happy to be seeing the UK again. Overwhelmingly i feel a sense of acheivement and joy with everything that i have done here in Bangladesh. This week has been one of two things; Goodbyes and Shopping!! Each day of teaching has been difficult, with each successive class that i have had to teach asking the same question, 'Why do you have to go Mr Will?'. I have been inundated with gifts (seven mugs at the final count - not all of ... read more
Well, this week was the week of the ADF! And what a full on week it was. Sunday, i was back at school rehearsing from 5pm until 8pm, Monday i had half a day at school then rehearsals from 2 until 6. Tuesday we had the day off due to a national strike organised by the BNP for some political reason i can't get my head round. Then, Wednesday was a normal day of school and finally, i had Thursday morning off until 1:30 where i went into school for the performances!! I really didn't know what to expect from the shows. My piece was only a small part of a much bigger 2 hour show - all based around the concept of Festivals of the World. I was directing a short drama based around the ... read more
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