To a villge that hasn't changed much in 100 years and back...

I've been laying low ovr the last couple of days because I haven't been feeling very well but now that I'm better i can finally do some stuff!

Wednesday: to the suburbs

Today me and james went out to the ancient (1000year old) fire worshiping temple in the suburbs of Baku. Indians used to travel here on foot to worship at the constantly burning natural gas flame (which has now since burned out, due to a drop in pressure caused by drilling)
The museamum was still intresting and it was a pleasent half day out of the hustle and bustle of Baku

Thursday: Quba

James left this morning to catch his ferry to Aktau in Kazakhstan but i still have 6 days before i can leave so i decided to head right out of the city.
I took a 3 hour bus ride to the town of Quba.
The town is really peaceful and full of treelined streets with small russian houses either side.
I can't remember a time recently when ive been able to walk down the middle of a street in a town and not nearly get run over, it was that quiet.
The main reason I was here tho was to try and get to Xinilq.
After my first run in with the police of the trip, (he just wanted to see my passport and know where i was going) the adventure could begin.

Xinilq: 4 break downs later....

So after managing to secure the services of a driver who

A: Knew where Xinliq is (it's not easy to find)
B: Had a car up to the challange
C: Wasn't trying to rip me off

we were off!
To get to Xinliq you have to travel for 50km down a windy mountain road that is often only wide enough for 1 car. This road travels through some spectacular scenery and I didn't mind the fact we broke down 4 times (mostly due to radiator overheating from driving the whole way in 1st gear) as the scnerey was so great.

So, an hour and a half later, we arrive in Xinliq. This little village perched on top of a hill has changed little in 100 years (apart from the TV satalite dishes). Everybody farms the sheep and goats and water is bought down from the hills from a spring in pipes to a fountain in the square, where the overflow just runs off down the hill again.
We took a walk up to the spring that feeds the village as it overlooks the village and has a nice view.
Afterwards my driver, Eluag, went to visit his mate in the village and we were invited in for tea. The houses are all very simple but very nice. The people of the village have to walk up to the fountain for all their water and carry it back down to their house.

The way back down wasn't as eventful as the way up, due to the fact it's mostly down hill so the radiator didn't over heat.
When we got back to Quba about 9pm, Eluag invited me to his house for some tea and something eat. In the end it turned into a bit of a knees up with his family and i ended up crashing on their sofa and catching the 6am (eeeeeeeugggghhhhhh) marshrukte back to baku.


So 4 days before I can leave Baku and their probably won't be a lot to update in that time and the internet is banned in Turkmenistan so my next blog might not be for 9 days till i get to Aktau, Kazakhstan

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