Armenia can't get along?

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June 2011
Armenia doesn't get along with Azerbaijan to its right or Turkey to its left -borders closed. With Iran to the south, that leaves a US passport holder with Georgia to the north.

Moscow–Yerevan, Armavia Airlines
I felt like the only non-Armenian on a plane full of super-sized families. At the airport in Yerevan, as the ONLY person at the visa window, it was fact. Yerevan had lots of character. Kind of rough, but nice architecture characterized by reddish-brownish stone construction on most buildings. Nice parks, good restaurants, Cafesjian Center-Hanging Gardens very nice with great view. Found a great place to sit on the street and sip beer on a perfect evening. Watched Armenians walk by for a couple of hours.

Yerevan
Hotel Villa Delenda was very cool, an old residence, in an ally in the center, full of antiques and books. Owned by an Italian doctor, the proceeds go for restoration projects in the city and for children’s art programs.

Armenians are very nice people. Some young people speak a bit of English, but everyone speaks Russian as a second language. People were helpful and don't look at you with suspicion like in some former Soviet countries.

At breakfast the day after arrival, I met some French people about my age from Paris- 2 women. They invited me along on their day trip to the Monastery of Geghard (4th C), with a stop at Garni Temple (3rd C BC), the only Hellenistic structure in the Caucuses. On the public bus to Garni, came to road construction. The flagman looked like some sort of court jester and was. There was a small horn and drum band, and to our delight, a tight rope walker – all at roadside for… donations? No actual construction work but it was a Sunday.

Garni temple was surprisingly Greek and grounds included Roman baths and great views of the river canyon.
After Garni, we walked to the street to find a bus to Geghard. A tubby older guy offered to drive us around in his old Lada taxi. The French guys spoke English but no Russian. The driver spoke Russian but no English. This left me as the interpreter. I wouldn’t sign any contracts based on my Russian skills, but I did okay. Armenian’s speaking Russian are slower and simpler than native speakers, giving me a fighting chance. The driver invited us to his house for tea and cookies and then drove us to some other sites (to avoid a ticket, he asked me to pretend-use the seat belt: strap it over me, but there was nothing to buckle it into). He took us back to the B&B, all for 20,000 Armenian dram.

The next day again joined the Frenches on a day trip to a monastery and medieval church in the mountains and then later went out to dinner with them. They were cool and live in the historic center of Paris. There was some political discussion about, as usual, US foreign policy all the way back to Vietnam. I said, well what about Napoleon? Not really, though I did feel constrained to point out that (according to the NYT) Sarkozy had spearheaded the Libya intervention and also that he had the hottest First-Spouse in politics.

Yerevan: the first city I’ve ever been to with NO McDonalds, a small relief.
Armenia is pleasantly affordable, about 50-70% of US prices.

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