Blogs from East, Armenia, Asia

Day 12 Armenia. 900 Khachkars of Noratus, and Hayravank Monastery Noratus, a village south west of where we’re staying at Sevan Lake, is a town known to exist in the Mediaeval period, but a fort by it is Bronze Age makes it likely to be one of the longest established settlements in Armenia. We’re here to see 900 Khachkars from Mediaeval times (and after), all in one site next to the huge, present day cemetery. Khachkars are said in pre Christian times to be stones marking springs and water sources, perhaps erected to please water gods. From 9thC onwards they were adopted as a form of Christian monument, worship in stone. These Noratus stones are nearly all clones, as far as I can see: they carry pretty much the same image of an Armenian Cross and ... read more

Day 11 Armenia Hanging Out at Lake Sevan When we first arrived at our hotel / chalet accommodation last night I felt a little deflated. We’ve booked for three nights here, and the quiet remoteness of Nature Rooms has set a high standard. Driving is such a challenge in Armenia when you are used to consistent road surfaces and the Highway Code. Here, a smooth bit of tarmac for 20kms can change, without warning, into a deeply gouged mud bath where other drivers are still trying to overtake you ...... as on coming traffic is doing the same. And our Lavash Tearooms accommodation is only 50m from the main Yerevan Highway, so the traffic noise is a constant reminder that we’ll be out on another road trip adventure soon. But this morning I feel a change ... read more

The eco house was charming, set on a hillside up a long, winding, steep and very dodgy dirt track. There were wonderful views over the Diljan valley and I was able to wander happily in the meadowland surrounding the house, finding blue chicory, lemon yellow mallows and scabious, yellow rattle,knapweed and orange fritillarybutterflies. The owner lives ina house below and told us she is a trained teacher but works for the community...runs art activities for children Ithink. In the afternoon we drove to our next stop, Lavash hotel on the shores of Lake Sevan. It consists of terraced sets of bungalows with verandahs, a bar, a restaurant, and other rooms overlooking the lake - and what a lake. It goes on forever. Blue, blue water in the sunshine. Great clumps of swaying reeds by the shore ... read more

We stayed two nights in Goris in the clouds, rain and mist. Once a watery sun peered through, but only once. That was a bit sad as the guidebook suggests there are breath taking views to be seen. In the rain we walked to see the Museum of Bukants house, a famous Armenian writer. It reminded us of visiting the museum in Tusson in the Charente where there are similar rooms and household objects. The rain stopped so We did then visit the amazing rock pinnacles with caves that were habitations from medieval to recent times. It was a good walk out from the town. We were adopted by a small dog all the way. He just seemed to want company. No begging for food. During our travels here so far we have encountered many stray ... read more

W sobotę rano wyruszyliśmy na podbój reszty kraju. Punktem pierwszym było jezioro Sevan - jedyna większa woda w Armenii, źródło narodowej dumy, weekendowa destynacja, generator korków. Genialni inżynierowie sowieccy mieli pomysł, zeby liczące 1416 km kwadratowych powierzchni jezioro w znacznej mierze osuszyć, na brzegach posadzić drzewa owocowe i jednocześnie zwiększyć - w zmniejszonym akwenie - produkcję ryb. Szykowała sie katastrofa ekologiczna na miarę Morza Aralskiego, które praktycznie przestało istnieć. Tu jednak jakimś cudem - po śmierci Stalina i z braku środków - udało sie projekt przerwać po obniżeniu poziomu wody o 20 metrów. Teraz trwają prace, żeby wody znów było więcej. W wyniku tych zabiegów, Monastyr Savanavank, ktory kiedyś był na wyspie, teraz leży na półwyspie, malowniczo wcinając sie w jezioro. U jego podnóża udało sie jeszcze wcisnąć dom pracy twórczej radziecki... read more