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Published: July 22nd 2011
So that was that at 4am I briefly trudged along the dark streets of Cotonou with my backpack and found a moto taxi to take me to the airport. It was only a 3 minute ride but not worth finishing Africa on a bad note. In all truth Africa has been one of the safer places I have traveled but still it’s not worth getting robbed so close to the end. I never felt in danger but always in the back of my mind I thought if something goes bad it can really go pear shaped. So after 10 months traveling 29 countries and 23 Visa’s paid for (ranging from $8.10 - $120) its time to summaries my African journey.
I waited in line at security check before I headed into the check in area. You show your ticket and passport and go through. I’m about 3 back, it comes to my turn and some rich black guy who’s paid some guy to wheel his luggage tries to push in. I’m sorry, this may happen in other places in Africa but not at Cotonou airport at 430am. I’m thinking for old time sake lets have one last blast off with
a local!!
I block the path of the trolley with my trolley (well it was already in the path, I chose not to move it) and hand my papers over, get checked and allowed through. The drunk rich man in a suit starts arking up of which I reply. “Who are you to think you can push in in front of everyone else? What makes you so special?” He curses at me “Yeah fuck you to” as I walk on through ahead of the dickhead (now both of us). He will end up on the same flight, waits behind me at check in, at passport check and sits on the row behind and opposite me.
See this was my last chance to have a go at rich Africans, which class themselves as superior to the normal African. Okay I maybe rich in world terms but I think I generally show respect to people no matter what class. The rich class of Africa don’t. Plus I have been travelling like a poor African most of the time so it was a word from the people (… you know.) I can see why rich Africans are the way they are.
You need to hold your position in society, before you know it you are back in the squalor.
And that is one of Africa’s problems. I’ve said it before but it seems like it’s a look out for number 1 type community than if there is time maybe some other people. A lot of rich people get educated overseas and either stay there or come back and not really advance the nation. Maybe the next generation there will be an academic that will have enough balls to sort out their nations problems.
Maybe for starters the Presidents of nearly every nations should not call themselves Dr. whoever and have the national symbol or flag in offices. Instead of the portrait photo of some Dr. which is more than likely corrupt or is the head of a corrupt government which he hasn’t been able to weed them out.
What I am suggesting is that the Presidents are perceived as heroes when they aren’t really doing anything. National pride is not high. It was rare to hear true positiveness whilst travelling here. So its high time these countries promote the beauties that each country has. Africa is not all
bad… frustrating at times but it is so unique.
Travelling Africa is like nowhere else. Unlike most places in the world you travel a day and you get to somewhere else interesting. Africa sometimes is like 3 or 4 days between something truly interesting. In Africa’s case they are special because of its remoteness
Like the worlds largest sand dunes in Namibia (I will list my must see’s later) Camping in Congo on the crater of a live volcano. The pristine beaches of Sierra Leone. There has been some incredible sites but to do that, boy there has been some tough times.
I am unsure how much more I will travel in this lifetime but it will be hard to beat the uncomfortable experience this continent provides in public transport. I swear my body has aged a few extra years. Easily the worst buses in the world (I’m at 105 countries now) is Mozambique who have no place to put luggage so it’s in the aisles, under the seats, on your lap all whilst sharing a seat. Then one of them caught on fire. It took over Bolivia who had that title for 4 years and was
never beaten in the rest of my travels. Although that could be because most of West Africa doesn’t have buses.
From Mauritania to Sierra Leone I had one bus, which took 20 ½ hours to travel about 250km from Guinea Bissau – to Guinea along the worst road I can remember in Africa. The rest of the time I was scrunched up for 4-8 hours every 3 or so days in the trunk of a station wagon. Physically it was exhausting especially towards the end as I was in West Africa heading towards summer.
My first 6 months or so was in African winter, which was quite cool, I was wearing a jacket probably 70% of the time. So because of that, travelling was slightly more comfortable than it could have been. I do have concerns for the future though.
China has put in big with new roads being built almost the length of the east coast from Mozambique to Ethiopia. Continued rumours were that Chinese prisoners were sent to help construct and once their sentence is complete they are free to stay in the African country.
China’s involvement means a smother ride but what about
the buses. They will be getting the buses of the western world in 20-30 years. I can’t see this sequence changing so what are they going to get? Have a look at the new breed of buses going around. They are all A/C – with enclosed windows… How’s that going to work in Africa? Maybe they won’t buy them but some poor African nation will buy it eventually because it will be cheap and they won’t be able to keep the A/C going. They won’t have enough money to change the windows so a section is able to open. Ooohhh God that could be torture!!
Generally there is a lot of respect from the locals when you travel the local’s form of transport. This is mainly because the rich people are in either the black cars with tinted windows that beep whilst not slowing down. Either government figures or other ‘important’ people. Or UN or NGO workers that drive around in overly expensive 4WD’s.
It is seen as a special bus ride when a white person catches the same transport as them. I always suspect it’s their chance to feel like they are travelling themselves. It would break
up the monotony of the trip they have been doing for most of their lives.
Public transport is true Africa - you can do the tour groups and see the fake tribal dances that are put on just for the tourist but that is not what Africa is about. It’s its heritage but it’s the day to day stuff where you get to witness their lifestyle.
The struggles of a mother with 3 children, the luggage and stuck with only 2 seats, the many people trying to sell fruit, biscuits, drinks on the side of the road. Back to the A/C buses, what are they going to do for money if they can’t sell food or drink through a bus window? If we really want to say we are concerned about Africa than we need to consider the simple things. I can’t believe that buses are now being designed with no windows. If it continues this could be a problem down the track how are these people going to survive?
Each region is different in its subtle ways. Easily the friendliest region was Southern Africa, which always could afford a smile. With such a high HIV/AIDS rate
they could easily be the opposite. Zimbabwe is still the friendliest nation I went to. Maybe English helped but from offering of food, to laughing on the bus, to helping a mother out who had her hands full. Each mother felt it was their duty to help another mother out.
Maybe that has been brought upon by the HIV/AIDS crises but it was incredible to see. That was generally for most of the region but Zimbabwe was beyond the call of duty. Especially their eagerness to make sure I was safe and my belongings were safe. So many times I had locals informing me that “don’t worry I know your bag is right next to the door and you are stuck in the corner but we are keeping an eye out for it… The whole bus is” and these big eyes with big white smiles from around the bus look at you.
Southern Africa did have a lot of influence from South Africa, which did provide a slightly generic feel to it. Whilst further north heading into East Africa you could sense a real tourist scene. Starting from Malawi into Tanzania it’s the only time apart from Tofo
in Mozambique that I hit tourist Africa.
With safaris aplenty and diving it provides the cliché Africa. Lake Malawi is a unique dive, which despite only seeing small Cichlid fish has provided the most vicious survival of the fittest I have seen. Day and night dive is a must. The safari’s were good and I hope my external hard drive is not broken for good otherwise I have lost a lot of photos of these experiences. Each safari provides something different but I was still unable to witness a kill.
I briefly ventured into Central Africa and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) to witness something that volcano specialists only get to see. Lava rising and falling, bubbling up inside the crater of a live volcano than sleep at the lip. It was a small taste of Africa that I didn’t get much of, that was true adventure – VISA problems at the end prevented my grand adventurous finale.
I am proud to say that in 10 months I only paid 1 bribe and that was to enter DRC. $50 that is all – I see that the only way to stop the corruption is to not
support it so I held out and used this call “No? Then fine I don’t have to see it, that’s okay.” And more times then not I was allowed through in time. From my experience the corruption is not that bad if you have patients it must be just idiots that are making deals with these people.
Which leads me to NGO’s, I stopped my sponsorship with World Vision during my travels here. Just go back to my Swaziland Tourist Minister story I typed up in my Kenya blog. There is this mentality that Europe and America owe them and they are just waiting for the handout. This tourist minister said that basically, Swazis just need to be nice to tourists so they can come back and bring money during an opening of a school I went to. No mention of how thankful they are for this gesture that will help us in the future to develop our initiatives to become more self sufficient and not have to rely on these overseas funds. I think Africa is taking the world for mugs sometimes.
And what about the NGO workers! From my experience especially in the English speaking African
countries it’s a sex romp. With 18-20 year olds from the UK going over for a few months to better their chances for Uni acceptance. Than they can say how good they are because they built a toilet in an African village whilst hooking up with other volunteers (not everyone obviously.) I’ve already stated that it’s shit because they are taking away jobs that could be given to African people. The local can than learn a trade that can be passed down to the next generation. Instead these people who think they are helping are just continuing the cycle… But anyway I am repeating myself.
West African NGO’s, which are generally French speakers I think are different as they are encouraging Africans to be involved in the organising of projects (from what I witnessed). I heard Ghana is different but Sierra Leone was of French speaking style. But that is the most complimentary I will get for West Africa.
I felt less welcome in West Africa apart from the heat, the poor transportation. I felt more of a moneymaking machine and they wanted it in small doses at every moment. Senegal is easily my most hated country in
Africa, maybe the world. They are abrupt, rude and charge ridiculous amounts for your bag. One day I spent $6 just to travel for half a day. That was almost the same price as my seat. It’s not much but it’s the principle.
West Africa did however feel like I was travelling Africa, it’s harsh, it’s the poorest region I have ever travelled to for such a consistent time. It had character, it’s off the beaten track. I only saw 3 tourists the whole time. There is little Chinese development going on which was a change, although the place is full of Chinese shitty motorcycles.
It is suppose to be the most dangerous part of Africa but I avoided most of the major problems but timed my run perfectly half way through my trip when I hit Egypt. The safest country for tourists turned into a hairy week as I tried to go from Alexandria to Sharm el Sheik during the revolution. Walking empty streets trying to find food and being asked for my passport by civilians with machete’s or broken mirrors cut in a sword shape with a cloth around the handle. Those memories will be hard
to forget.
I wanted to see more of North Africa but it wasn’t meant to be. I only saw Morocco, which reeked with culture. Two countries were at a crossroads between Arabic Africa and Black Africa. Sudan and Mauritania. Reading the history and it’s a realisation that wait hang on. We are all the same. Arabs can’t complain about Westerners trying to take over the world because they are doing it in these regions too and discriminating against the Black Africans. Which is why Southern Sudan has formed. Why many in Mauritania had to flee from southern parts of the country to Senegal.
You can learn so much about the world from Africa they say it’s the cradle of the world and it is really. African slavery was just a continuation in a way of African tribes ahead of other tribes. The human race is about trying to dominate and since the white man is above should we feel bad? Should we become more equal? I don’t think that will ever happen but we could try and breach the gap. But we are humans you give an inch we’d take a mile.
That’s what Africa is all
about its just with Africa when travelling that inch or attempting to give that inch it can feel like an awfully long mile. I may not be able to freely pee in public places anymore like on the vegetable patch next to the Senegal border post but the harshness of African travel is over. One day I will return. I envisage that Africa will be like India – the longer you are away the more rewarding your experience becomes and the more you want to return.
*****
I know these are lame but I suppose I should do this. I am still travelling and was mentally exhausted from Africa so I just quickly typed this up 6 weeks later. I could have summarised better so to compensate I have provided the lists below.
My Top 10 things to see/do (I have provided the links to the story for quick reference)
10 – Ethiopia – Look I hated the place because of the people but Christ it is unique. It’s not African or anything else. It’s Ethiopian. The food, the look of the people, the begging, the obnoxiousness of the people, the prostitution levels, incredible sites to see. It will stick
in the memory bank.
9 – Playing golf in Zimbabwe – This is the cheapest place in the world to play on top-notch golf courses. Lush green fairways, pristine greens. Leopard Creek in the east of the country is the weirdest course I’ve played on and there is so much more. The Gambia’s course, which was made of sand, the greens and fairways included, had a nice touch of a bunker just in case you missed the sand. Don’t play this course.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Zimbabwe/Harare/blog-517885.html
8 – Whale shark snorkelling in Djibouti – My second time I’ve swum with them and a different experience to Donsol in Philippines. Max of 10 at a time and since the sharks come so close to the shore they swim up than turn back in packs. When one disappears another arrives.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Djibouti/East/Djibouti-City/blog-557217.html
7 - Go to a Hammam - no Arab country is complete without a visit to the hot tiles to get scrubbed down by some hairy fat Arab and feel smooth as a babies bum afterwards.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Morocco/Rabat-Sal-Zemmour-Zaer/blog-587596.html
6 – Being caught up in a Revolution or protest – As well as Egypt, Morocco is the silent one of the Arab Revolt and briefly I
was given special attention to take photos in the front of the leading pack of protestors assuming I was media.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Egypt/Mediterranean/Alexandria/blog-572633.html
5 – Sierra Leone – in general really but the beaches set the scene for centuries ago. Green hills, golden sand. Perfect place to relax and get away from it all
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Sierra-Leone/Freetown/blog-610012.html
4 – Ilha Mozambique – a trek to get to because the bus rides are horrible but this ex East African capital for the Portuguese is a great promotion for poverty with a smile on their face. Some of the best bread I have had ever too.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Mozambique/blog-520234.html
3 - Diving Lake Malawi day and night – Malawi (explained earlier) and Tofo Mozambique – My first ever negative dive entry and at the bottom I am shadowed by a huge manta ray
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Malawi/Lake-Malawi/blog-546340.html
2 – DRC – You have to get yourself here if you can bribe (unfortunately). Already explained before, the guide’s kids are amazing. Driving through UN infested city and watching an orange glow inside a cone an absolute must!
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Congo-Democratic-Republic/East/Goma/blog-553483.html
1 – Namibia everything about it. The changing colours, the sand dunes, the 2nd biggest canyon in the world, two cultures – from traditional
natives in the north to the staunch German culture in the south it is Africa’s best country. Just hire a car and drive! The endless road to the horizon not many places in the world can provide that but Namibia provides that everyday as well as some of the best food and beer the world has to offer.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Namibia/Etosha-National-Park/blog-539123.html
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Namibia/Swakopmund/blog-542852.html
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Namibia/Sossusvlei/blog-539120.html
My top 10 Overrated things
10 –Africa being dangerous that is the most overrated thing really. If you are smart and don’t go out at night by yourself than generally things are okay. You have to be street smart. You need to know when to talk up and when to shut up. Never look intimidated, always assume you are right even if you don’t know. Have that in your game plan and in the most stickiest of situations you should come out a winner. Okay I could have finished the list with a destination but I wanted to make a point. So here goes
Somaliland yes it was good to say I went to Somalia but its safe as houses and only really one site to see. You visit to satisfy your intrigue.
9 - Voodoo that spiritual
stuff that’s really hard to capture as a traveler traveling for a short time.
8 – Saying I need to Minimize my luggage when considering a purchase of African artwork– I was in Greece when I saw this backgammon set it cost 90 euro… I could have bought it for $10 in Africa. Artwork here is so good especially the woodcarving. Realistically in 3rd world countries you hardly ever carry your backpack more than 2 minutes. Generally it’s from the bus and to the taxi than from the taxi in front of the hotel to the room. I would have bought more artwork if I had my time again… Although easy to say now since I don’t need to carry it.
7 – Africans are starving because the land is dry – okay there are people hungry and some lands have desertification problems. But some parts like Uganda are flourishing with farmland. The fruits and vegetables are incredible, full of juicy goodness. Most of Africa (outside the villages not on the main trails) get the staples but that’s about it. The thing they are missing is real good red meat and dairy products.
6 – FIFA World Cup – Not
sure how the world were perceiving it but in South Africa they were crapping on about how it was the best world cup ever. Surely not. How on earth Tim Cahill got a red card and Harry Kewell our best two players in two consecutive games is beyond me. Still had a good time but surely not the best world cup.
5 – Senegal – especially the beaches. I was wanting to learn French here for a few weeks but saw the beaches and left a few days later.
4 – African nightlife – I explained African nightlife in the last blog. The music is shit and that’s mainly because the modern stuff is taking on that American hip hop crap. I had higher expectations than what I got although I’ll give Senegal a wrap for once their music is good as well as Mali but never got to see a live act. I also managed to miss all the great music festivals. Malawi’s Lake of Stars Sep/Oct or Mali’s early January Festival in the Desert
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Benin/South/Cotonou/blog-620255.html
3 – Malawi – apart from the great dive in the lake a waste of my time. You keep hearing they are the
warm heart of Africa. That is a whole lot of crap. I heard a lot of yelling and arguing and apart from a few people I got no loving.
2 – Pemba Island Tanzania – wish I could have taken that back
1 – Gorillas yeah nice enough but I thought it was too much and plus Rwanda charging $80 for transport on top of the $500. I had seen a lot of animal life before that. Bare in mind I have spoken to about 3 other people who have the same opinion. About 1000 (over exaggerated) people I have spoken to think other wise
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Rwanda/Province-du-Nord/Parc-National-des-Volcans/blog-553481.html.
Best 5 public transport nations
5 – Zimbabwe – Am I getting desperate to fill in this list? Probably, but Zimbabwe still has managed to keep its rail system going and provides numerous overnight trips. In 1960’s sleepers you are provided with sheets and a pillow from happy workers. The north of the country is not well connected which is a problem. Still to keep a train running in their economic situation is pretty impressive and worth a mention.
4 – Rwanda – buses not fantastic but for this region to have a
schedule, a ticket with the time on it and the price is too good to be true.
3 - Burkina Faso – How on earth can a West African country manage to have a true western style bus company after all the other crap is beyond me. But even the bad bus companies had a schedule and ticket office. As well as that an overnight bus from Bobo to the capital. Overnighters are so rare in Africa. Well run.
2 – Morocco – Both buses and trains, which run smoothly. In Africa that is a rarity.
1 – Sudan – your own seat, A/C, baggage area under the bus, schedules plus they pick up a tourist when standing in the middle of the desert wanting to go home and the bus is full. The conductor will give you his seat until you reach the next busy town where they’ll drop you off for the next available bus.
Worst 5 Public transport nations
5 – Probably 1/3 of the countries who give half a seat to their customers to maximize profit. Actually Ethiopia could slot in here for their minimal leg room. Actually that 20 ½ hour bus after waiting 24 hours to leave in Guinea-Bissau to Guinea. I could make a list of about 24 nations so I’ll stick to just a list of 5.
4 – Senegal – Old shitty campervans from over-landers selling up before they head back to Europe and converted into buses. Need I say more.
3 – Namibia – there is basically none so the only way to see it is you either pay a ludicrous amount on a tour and only see half the place or go adventurous and hire a car and camp. Take the hired car option. The best decision I had done since deciding to take up diving.
2 - Malawi – there are more expensive options but I always ended up on the shit one. It helped me not like Malawi.
1 – Mozambique – already explained and probably won’t be beaten for a while.
Best Looking women
5 – Guinea Bissau – That cleavage I sat next to was incredible so just because of that I will put the whole nation of women in the top 5!
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Guinea-Bissau/blog-592640.html
4 – South Africans – Not to sound racist but the white South Africans. It has a lot to do with them having a different skin tone to the rest of Africa. Different is always good. But as most of Africa especially in the West say, “South Africa? Well that really isn’t Africa.” So much for ‘Africa United’ in the World Cup. The other thing I heard was that, “We are nice people we are not like the money hungry Nigerians. Nigerians are the ones who give African’s a bad name.” At least Africa were united mostly on those thoughts.
3 – Swaziland – well I had to put them quite high because I went to that boob-fest festival. Shame they have an HIV/AIDS rate of 40%
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Swaziland/Ezulwini-Valley/blog-530393.html
2 – Zambia – Really pretty girls and fit bodies but part of the southern Africa high HIV rate.
1 – Ethiopia – Beanpole legs but the rest is incredible – a reverse prawn you could say. But easily the prettiest in Africa I saw.
Best looking men – I don’t have a clue about this but I am trying to be as accommodating to both sexes that read my blog so I’ll go for physical presence.
5 – Rasta men of all over. I’m not sure how the women find them attractive and not annoying but some girls fall for them and even with rejection they still think they are the bomb.
4 – Sierra Leone – There is not an ounce of fat on these guys. The flattest feet I’ve seen but ripped to shreds
3 – South African – Again will single out the white South African because they have that Dutch height and the Boer physical presence. Nearly every white South African looks like they are in the Rugby squad for the World Cup
2 – Senegal apparently is similar to The Gambia with holiday retreats for the western woman. They are big strong men
1 – The Gambia – Just from experience of being there and seeing the western lady set herself up for a week-long holiday of passion.
http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Gambia/District-of-Banjul-/Banjul/blog-592638.html
Oh it’s not over yet I forgot about food and drink. I’m starting to really enjoy this! I think traveling Africa for an extended time does help you think about your life, how you’ve come to be, about life in general but I didn’t realise how much I’ve enjoyed myself. This is why I travel for extended periods of time!!
Best beer – Namibia followed by South Africa
Worst beer – Obama beer in Benin, my last African beer followed by a hell of a lot others anywhere north of southern Africa.
Best Meal – Eisbein (pork) with sauerkraut in Luderitz my mouth is still watering followed by the calamari in South Africa.
Worst Meal – Too many. Ethiopia depended on the mood I was in. Sometimes a fantastic meal other times a groaning experience.
My weight fluctuated from a peak of 84kg (I put on weight in South Africa) to a teenage weight of 72kgs. That’s a loss of 26.45 pounds in the old scale. Thanks West Africa!
Best Public Urinating spots… Okay I’ll stop now I already mentioned the Senegal border post where African women tried to grab a sneak peek of yours truly from the fields beyond. Africa was either a memorable public urinating moment or excruciating hold-ons. How on earth do these locals accept and do hold on for sometimes 8 hours or more?
Africa is not a cheap destination really in comparison to SE Asia or the Middle East. It is on par with South America, maybe more. Nearly anything exciting to do costs money. Safaris over $100/day, hiking has added fees for everything. Transport is not cheap either, some rides were $40 one way and internal flights were almost always around the $3-400 mark. So to finalise I will give you a tip with negotiating for places like Egypt, Morocco and Mali to help the budget a bit.
The Art of Negotiating has changed over the years. The old rule which I never adhered to was to always start off at half the first price they offer than negotiate from there. That is a ridiculous way to negotiate. In some parts especially Mali you start off at 10% of their first price than go up 5% increments two more times and stick to that price. Walk away, see what happens and most of the time I got what I wanted for 20% of the initial price… and I still felt I got ripped off.
The 2010 World Population data projects Africa will double to 2 billion people by 2050. But that could be even more if birth rates don’t decrease faster than at the moment. Africa's total fertility rate is 4.7 children per woman. Hospitals, better health care and maybe doctors being doctors instead of Presidents could help change peoples ways and not feel the need for more children. At this stage they need more children for a higher chance of having children reach adulthood to support them when they get older. There is no pension in these places.
I’m not sure if it is a mouth-watering prospect to return here one day. Whether it is sooner rather than later I’m not sure but I do hope that when I do come back I am not like other repeated visitors I saw throughout and say. “Gosh, you know. Nothings really changed since the last time I was here.”
### I’d like to thank all the people who have read my African blogs over the past year and especially those that gave up a few seconds of there time to make a comment. Especially that South African who said I was a ‘Another Condescending Australian’ Hope you all enjoyed.###
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Bravo dribbleman
Great summary of experiences. Loved the photos. Enjoyed the best of and overrated list.