What Else I Did In Zimbabwe

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Well it wasn’t all dodgy hotels and lion cubs…

Rafting the Zambezi

Adel wanted to take part in some of the adventure sports that were available, so I decided to tag along. After a weeks debate about what to do he finally settled on the tandem parachute jump and the white water rafting. I decided that I could only afford the white water rafting

First of all let me tell you some thing about my self. I’m not to keen on deep water, more out of a healthy fear of drowning than of actual deep water but I’m not comfortable in, or on, it any way. I also don’t like heights. Not because I suffer from vertigo but because I don’t like the idea of falling to my death (this becomes relevant later on).

So what the hell I was doing one day climbing into a bit of yellow rubber prone to flipping over with nothing but another bit of rubber to stop me from drowning on one of the worlds only commercially raftable grade 5 rivers? I have no idea.

The day started with the guys from the tour company picking us up at 9 am and driving to rapid number 11 (rapids 1-10 were closed due to the high water).

We then had a one hour walk, which was quite dangerous, down to the Zambezi and the start off point and after a quick break we were asked where we wanted to sit, as Adel and I were the only tourists on this trip. Before we saw the Zambezi both of us were up for sitting at the front, the place were your most likely to fall off ad get very wet constantly. When I actually saw the raft and the river all thoughts on actually handling a paddle went out of the widow. Instead I opted for the sit in the raft and hold on for dear life option.

First up was a swim in the river. Great I sat there and watched every one else jump in. Then I thought what the hell and rolled in my self. The life jacket helped. After a couple of minutes every one clambered back on board. I, on the other hand swam up to the side of the raft and tried. It took 2 people to haul me back on!!!

We then started to actually raft. First up was a grade 4 rapid called Creamy White Buttocks. Why? Apparently this is a rapid where people go in and get their swimming shorts ripped off by the Zambezi, exposing their buttocks, which haven’t been tanned. Then I got wet. Very wet. Some how I was actually drier when I was swimming in the river.

After the next rapid I was feeling emboldened and decided to take up one of the paddles, perilously balancing on the edge of the raft while trying to paddle. I was asking to be thrown in.

But it was fine. I managed to stay in the raft. Then came the first grade 5 rapid. And I managed not to fall in again. This was absolutely great.

We then had a nice gentle bit which found me gong for a swim again and contemplating taking up rafting as a hobby.

Then the next rapid came up...

Victoria Falls is over 2 km wide, and was up stream and had a flow rate of about 10 meters per second. The next rapid saw every thing that came over Vic Falls pass through a 10 m gap Apparently its about 90m deep in this spot. The guides words were “ This is not a good place to come of the raft. If we do flip just hang on for dear life.” Inside my head rung the words “I don’t want a paddle I just want to live!!!!”

I made it! Or should I say we made it! Then another gentle stretch. At which point we were asked if we wanted to jump off some rocks into the river. Adel immediately said yes. For both of us (I couldn't let him go and not go myself)

We got off the raft and climbed up the rocks along the edge until we came to two out crops. The first was 6 meters high. The second was about 11 meters. Adel chose the higher. My fear of heights meant that I would choose the lower. While Adel was climbing up we were joined by another raft of people, who I let over take me while I built up the nerve to make the jump Unfortunately there was this one person who was even more terrified than myself and she spent 5 minutes going ‘I cant do this’ etc. All the time making me even more nervous.

Eventually she came back and it was my turn.

Carefully I made my way out too the edge. I stood there contemplating whether or not I should actually jump. I realised that if I didn't jump I would probably fall in. Too myself I said out loud ‘Just one step’ then I remembered something about how war cries reduce inhibitions.

With one almighty yell I stepped off the edge.

The yell turned into a scream on the way down, as I help on to my life jacket incase it came off.

I hit the water and went under, and felt the river slow me down. Eventual I started to float back up. It wasn’t quick enough so I started kicking before I panicked for breath.

Up and up I swam. Then…

My head broke the surface of the water. I took one breath threw my arms in the air as I yelled “I’m alive” followed by laughter, out of shear relief, as I drifted down stream.

That was FUN.

After a short break from the exertions of rafting we were on our way again. This time it was rapid after rapid.

We were okay apart from one…

As I was paddling I noticed this wave coming towards us. I kept paddling wondering when the call to go down into the raft would come. I kept paddling as this wave became a wall in front of us. I shifted my weight so that I slipped into the raft while paddling. The call to go down still hadn’t come. I saw they guides go into the raft, but still no call.

I looked up and saw that it was no longer a wave but a wall of water in front of us. I ditched my paddle and grabbed on to the side of the raft.

Next thing I know I see Adel flying across the raft. I look to my left and see a mass of yellow rising to my side. This was it. The raft wasn’t about to flip it was flipping. I hung on to the rope around the edge. The raft came over my head and threw me into the river. My head surfaced and I saw a mass off yellow above of me. I knew I could still breath if I was trapped under here as the valves would let in fresh air. I relaxed a bit and took a breath in. Then panic set in as I was pulled under the water as I breathed in resulting in swallowing what felt like half the Zambezi. My head bounced on some thing as I came back up pushing me further under. Down I went again. Desperate for some air. It felt like I was under for minutes being tossed and turned by the power of the river.

When my head did surface, according to Adel, my eyes were wide with panic as I flapped to stay above the water. It apparently made an amusing memory. And I guess that if I saw myself I would laugh as well.

Eventually I realised that I should swim towards the raft. I grabbed on to the side as the guide and his assistants pulled me up After a couple of minutes to catch our breath we had to flip the raft back over and off we went…

The last three rapids were followed by a nice calm bit before the landing on the edge.

Then all we had was 200 vertical meters to walk up before lunch and back to the lodge for an afternoon knap.


Art Corner

In Lusaka I met an artist based in Vic Falls town that I travelled down to Livingstone with. I managed to catch up with him on my first day and every now and again when I had a free afternoon, or lunch time I would drop by and chat for a couple of hours or just watch him paint.

He really is an amazing artist and I wish I had an example of one of his paintings to show, that’s actually complete.


Elephant Safari

As part of the lion rehabilitation programme volunteers were also asked to help out with the elephants as well. As much as I enjoyed being around the elephants I didn’t particularly enjoy the safaris. What I did enjoy was following the elephants around on foot as they ate and bathed, as it gave me a chance to talk to the trainers...

I would have also have helped train them if it wasn’t for the clients. Damn clients. Grrrr.


Curio Shopping

Zimbabwe, in my journey, is one of the cheapest places in Africa to buy curio. If you haggle. Hard.

While I have no interesting in curio I did accompany Adel to the curio market towards the end of his visit. His ploy was to trade his clothes as he would never wear those clothes again and the people sad that they would trade.

Well that’s what they tell you to get you interested and then they start ask for money. It takes along time to haggle them down, when you don’t have cash.


Shopping in General

Was an interesting affair at times. I’ve already mentioned the economic problems with regard to inflation but that was only the start of it. When ever you buy an activity aimed at tourists you have to either pay in USD or show the receipt from the legal currency transaction that you carried out and then persuad them to take you.

Then there is normal every day stuff that you buy that you don’t need USD for.

Firstly imported goods are expensive any way. A tube of Pringles was over $10 US at the official exchange rate.

But then there are the price tags. They prices change so quickly that at times stores are hard pressed to keep up. I often bought a bottle of cordial only to find that the price they charged me was different to the price label or that there were 10 different prices on label.

It was still relatively cheap for me but at times it was abit of a headache trying to figure out how much cash to carry. So I just carried three bundles of 20,000 Zimbabwe Dollar notes, in a bag as there is no wallet or pocket bug enough.

And finally...


Impressions Of Zimbabwe

I like Zimbabwe, despite its problems and would recommend any one thinking of gong to Victoria Falls to stay in Victoria Falls Town on the Zimbabwe side of the border rather than Livingstone on the Zambian side.

However Zimbabwe does have its problems and apart from the usual safety steps a thick skin and a sense of humour is required when trying not to speak to the people trying to get some thing out f you.

Too any who would stay away because of the nature of the political relations I would say that staying away only hurts the average person trying to make a living and the people I met are some of the friendliest in Southern Africa.

If you do choose to go, take a lot of USD with you, and be prepared to enjoy yourself.

Personally I intend returning, hopefully soon. Not just for the Lions I worked with but there is so much I haven’t done like Rafting the whole of the Zambezi, gorge swing, parachute jump, micro-lighting as well as visiting the Zimbabwean side of the falls.

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