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Published: July 24th 2008
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Was up at 4am Monday morning to catch the bus to Livingstone. Stayed at Jollyboys backpackers', which was fine for my needs. Could boil up noodles for lunch in their kitchen and they do a basic filling meal for abouit a fiver each evening. They also had Savana cider even when the local Shoprite had sold out 😊
Tuesday morning got the hostel lift to Victoria Falls/Mosi-oa-Tunya, paid my entrance and wandered around the main part full of awe- have attached pictured and videos but not sure they can really do justice. Was a long way to go but definitely worth it.
On the way back went to the local crocodile farm; apparently the tail is the only bit eaten- the rest just becomes shoes and luggage..
Livingstone is famous for its extreme sports; many tourists are young and come to chuck themselves over gorges or down white water. This didn't really appeal. However, I fancied the trip description to Livingstoner Island, to which David Livingstone was taken by locals for his first glimpse of the Falls. Therefore, the next day, the hostel dropped me at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, a very posh joint with children playing croquet
on the lawn and I later saw arrivals being given hot towels as they rolled up. This was somwhat to the amusement of the other backpackers in the bus with me.
I was taken, along with an American family who had also signed up, the few hundred yards to the island in a motorboat, where we were greeted with glasses of maheu, the local maize yoghurty-type drink. We took off our shoes and socks and waded to the edge of the Falls to admire the view. Since there were only two parties, a guide took me around slightly separately and obligingly took lots of photos of me- on rocks, by the Falls, by the rainbow (two views!), in water etc- felt like a fashion shoot, or a 'Princess Di by the Taj Mahal' moment.
The trip description mentioned swimming so I had my costume on underneath but this is only possible in the dry season when the water's lower. But when it is, you can swim right to the middle of the river above the falls, where there is a natural hollow and which stops you going over the edge. Must go back for that one.
Having
seen the falls from every angle of the island, we walked back to the centre, where a gourmet three course meal (with drinks such as wine and even Pimms with all the trimmings) awaited. There was food I either knew was very expensive (like cheese) or which I hadn't ever seen in Zambia, like basil and couscous. Couscous! It was all cooked on the island, with a marquee, a big table and white tablecloth and proper crockery- the island licensing rules mean that all structures erected are strictly temporary.
The Californian family with me were most interesting. Three generations- grandmother, a couple and several older teens on the trip of a lifetime- from South Africa, through Namibia and now Zambia. Incredibly, they all still seemed to be on good terms after so long all together.
On going back to the mainland, I decided the Royal Livingstone hotel was so lovely that would stay a bit, so had a quick swim and then sat for a few hours with a couple of glasses of wine until the sun went down, and got some lovely pictures. Unfortunately, when the time came to leave, the ties in my trousers had loosened
while had been sat down so they fell down upon my standing up, leaving me with a slightly ignominous exit...
Was up again early the following morning for the first bus back to Lusaka. Arrivals at Lusaka bus station are manic. Taxi drivers were banging on the window and waving their keys at me as the bus drew up. I had been dithering about whether to get a taxi as was tired and had my rucksack, but on seeing the chaos decided to walk as I know the way and was only a half hour or so. While waiting for my luggage, several drivers started arguing among themselves over who would take me, even with me standing there repeatedly saying I didn't want a taxi- slightly surreal.
Flew home Saturday; think my flight must have been one of the very few late ones. The Friday night flight arrived an hour late and was compounded by the check-in computers crashing. When we finally boarded we first had to identify our own luggage on the tarmac and then, when everyone had got on, it was thought that there was an extra person on the plane who wasn't on the passenger
list. It took another hour to reconcile everyone's names. But we did eventually leavve, and turned up at T4 some hours later, having circled Bromley a couple of times.
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The first few weeks back have been about sorting out washing, going for long walks and remembering how to use Chip and Pin at the supermarket.
I may add something further once things have settled back at home but for the moment I haven't got my head straight as to whether I think I've changed as a result of this or as to any new perspectives and views on life, the universe and everything...
So that's it for now.
Trust you've enjoyed reading this as much as I've enjoyed writing it, and hope to see everyone again soon.
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Sheila Tomlinson
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What a fantastic trip of a lifefime!
Dad and I have thoroughly enjoyed the blogs and all the photos. It has been amazing and we felt we were almost in Zambia. The whole trip seems to have been a wonderful experience. Well done! Mum and Dad