Vic Falls and South Luangwa NP

So, from Lilongwe, we were heading into Zambia. More specifically, South Luangwa Nat. Park. This was supposed to take one day, but then again, this is Africa, and things never happen on time. We were lucky enough to make it across the border and into the first town (Chipata) by 7pm! We stayed in the worst guesthouse so far. No fan, ventilation, anything! But they did have mossie nets! So after a sleepless night, dying from the heat, we caught a minibus to Mfuwe, which is at the gate of the Park. The ride, which was supposed to take 3 hours, took 7, thanks to the slowest bus driver in history. In Africa, they either drive stupidly fast, or rediculously slow... there's no in between. We finally got to Mfuwe, and our driver gave us a lift to Flatdogs Camp as it was too unsafe to walk there due to the chance of being swallowed by a lion en route. And rightly so! On the 2km ride to the camp, we saw elephants, giraffes, and antelopes. Nothing that would actually eat us, but to be flattened by an elephant wouldn't be a pleasant experience.
Flatdogs was awesome! The campsite was located on the Luangwa river which borders the NP. The river's full of hippo's and crocs, and on the first night, we were woken by a loud noise outside. When we looked out from out tent, there was a massive elephant munching on a tree about 5 metres away! Anto couldn't sleep after that as she thought she was next on the menu. Next day, we did a game drive in the park. We came across a large herd of elephants that had stopped and were staring at our 4wd. Then one on the bulls started flapping his ears and began heading for the car. All of a sudden, 2 lions jumped up out of the tall grass in between the car and elephants and started running away. The elephant gave chase. There we were thinking that it was coming for us, little did we know about the lions hiding in the grass. That night, we did another game drive, but for the first time, under the cover of darkness. We set out before sunset, and as soon as it got dark, a leopard walked out in front of us. Our first leopard, and we finally ticked off the big 5!

After a few days at Flatdogs, we headed to Vic Falls, Livingstone, stopping for a night in Lusaka, the capital. Livingstone is cool, and we're at the best backpackers we've been at probably ever! So well set up, and the facilities are great. Good pool, bar, lounges, everything we went to the Falls on the first day, but unfortunately, as it's dry season, there's hardly any water. So there's only a couple of spots where water's going over. But as a comprimise, low water makes white water rafting great, so yesterday was spent rafting down the Zambesi River, radids 1 - 23! The day was great, and somehow we all managed to stay in the boat.

Next day, Anto threw herself off the a cliff. Luckily, she had a rope attached to her. I believe her screams could be heard all the way to Chile.

From here we head to Kasane, Botswana. A Country that seems to be forbidden for budget backpackers due to high prices and their obssesion with getting only 5 stars tourists. We'll see how we cope with that....

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AL fin en Zambia, especificamente en la reserva nacional del South Luangwa. Supuestamente estariamos aca en solo un dia viniendo desde Malawi, pero nuevamente, esto es Africa y nada ocurre en el tiempo estimado. Por suerte estabamos en la aduana justo a las 7pm y nos permitieron pasar, sin embargo tuvimos que quedarnos en la ciudad limitrofe de Chipata y alojar en el peor hostal visto hasta ahora.. sin ventilador, un calor infernal.. no se podia respirar. Durante la noche saliamos a tomar aire al patio!! asi es como despues de una horrible noche sin dormir tomamos el minibus hasta Mfuwe que el la ciudad en la que se encuentra la puerta de la reserva. Gracias al chofer mas lento de la historis el viaje de 3 horas duro nada menos que 7. En Africa manejan arriesgada y peligrosamente rapido o ridiculamente despacio. Lo unico bueno es que el chofer amablemento nos dio un empujon hasta el lodge, ya que el corto caminito que lo separa de la ciudad es incaminable dado los animales salvajes y riesgo de morir como carnada de algun gatito!! Durante estos solo 2 kilometros vimos elefantes, jirafas y antilopes.. casi arriba del minibus!! nada nos comeria , pero no seria agradable quedar aplastado debajo de la pata de un elefante..


Flatdogs lodge era espectacular!!! Ubicado a la orilla del rio Luangwa y limitaba con la reserva. El rio lleno de Hipopotamos y cocodrilos y en la primera noche fuimos despertados por un elefante gigante que se alimentaba de las ramas bajo las cuales pusimos nuestra carpa.. o sea!! casi nos pisa. En esos casos lo mejor es quedarse inmovil y que no te vean, por que aunque te huelen, no atacan si no pueden distinguir e identificar a la presa. y la carpa no es una presa reconocida como sabrosa!!

De todas maneras la Anto no pudo dormir mas pensando en que seria parte del menu!. Agotados al dia siguiente y tempranisimo en la manana hicimos un Game Drive. nos cruzamos una manada de elefantes que miraban fijo a nuestro jeep. Uno de los mas grandes empexo a mover las orejas y correr hacia nosotros. De repente, 2 leones que no habiamos divisado estaban camuflados en el pasto largo entre los elefantes y nosotros , y saltaron arrancando del enojado elefante. El show duro unos cuantos minutos y el elefante los saco del lugar correteandolos imponiendo su ventajoso porte y con las orejas bien abiertas. Nosotros, aliviados de darnos cuentas que su intension no era atacar el Jeep, sino defender su manada de los leones que en principio nunca supimos estaban ahi.
Ese mismo dia, hicimos nuestro primer Game Drive Nocturno... y en medio del peligro de la oscuridad, VIMOS EL TAN BUSCADO LEOPARDO.. Y finalmente le pusimos un tick en la lista al ultimo de lo 5 GRANDES que nos faltaba. (LOS 5 GRANDES SON: Elefante, leopardo, leon, bufalo y Rino)

Despues de un par de dias en Flatdogs nos dirigimos a las famosas CATARATAS VICTORIA, en Livingstone, haciendo una parada de solo una noche en LUSAKA, la capital de Zambia. El Backpackers de livingstone es el mejor de todos los que hemos estado. Excelente piscina, salas de descanso, bar, parrilla y gente cool!! Las cataratas fueron un poco desilucionantes porque es epoca seca y no cae mucha agua. Sin embargo es la mejor epoca para hacer Rafting porque aparecen mas rocas y las corrientes son mas fuertes. Asi nos atrevimos a la aventura de bajar el rio Zambezi en balsas de goma y pasamos por 23 rapidos de grado 5-6 y por suerte era un buen equipo que se las arreglo para mantenerse a flote.

La aventura en Zambia no terminaba aca. La Anto se tiro desde un acantilado. por suerte estaba amarrada a una cuerda, pero sus gritos seguramente se escucharon hasta en Chile.

De aca partimos a Kasane en Botswana.......un pais supuestamente prohibido para mochileros por temas de presupuestos!! al parecer estan obsesionado con solo recibir turistas de 5 estrellas!!! veremos que pasa,......

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