Blogs from Western Sahara, Africa
Free camping our way to the Mauritanian border
Published: April 17th 2012Africa » Western Sahara » South » DakhlaThursday Day 33 Woke up to a very wet tent and we waited until after breakfast to see if there was any chance of them drying. Of course it started raining and it ended up being even wetter, the gravel and sand sticking to the fly sheet as we rolled it up. We took off towards Agadir for one last stock up at the marjane and two nights of very little sleep meant I spent the majority of the morning with my iPod on, dozing. I knew when we'd arrived at our free camp site when we turned off the sealed road and onto a bumpy path that led past a farmhouse with a decent sized field full of olive trees and oddly enough, gum trees! Past the dog and machinery we drove up to a ... read more
Troche historii z drogi. Lotnisko w Marakeszu jest bardzo blisko miasta ale postanowilismy tam nie zagladac i ruszyc odrazu w trase,co prawda pojechalismy nie w ta strone co trzeba,ale mily starszy pan wywiozl nas na wlasciwa trase w stone Agadiru. Nie przemieszczalismy sie za szybko ale co dzien o kilkaset km do przodu poznajac nowych ludzi. Znow ladowalismy w Tiznicie i Tarfaji. Trafilismy w srodek ramadanu wiec czesto musielismy poscic razem z muzulmanami bo glupio pic i jesc przy kims kto posci caly dzien. SZczerze mowiac nie wytrzymywalismy i jak tylko zostawalismy sami wpychalismy w siebie szybko co sie dalo,szczegolnie wode. Ogolnie do Al Ujunu dojechalismy w kilka dni,ale nie bylo latwo ze wzgledu na policje ktora czepiala sie kierowcow ciezarowek ze nas biora na stopa i przetzymywala nas razem z kierowca do pol godziny ... read more
Zlapal nam sie ostatnio bardzo mily stop do ... MALI ! no nie wierzylismy,dopoki nie wytlumaczyl ze odda czesc bagazy w Mauretanii a potem juz nam bedzie wygodniej do Mali. Z naprawde wielkim zalem odmowilismy. Z roznych powodow chcemy juz wracac, powoli, przynajmniej z Sahary i pustyni do Maroka, na polnoc. Spedzilismy niezapomniane chwile w oazie na poludnie Laayoun w kierunku Smary ( chcielismy bardzo do El Hagouni , ale jest to miejsce na ziemi gdzie nawet stop nie jezdzi bo miejscowych jest malo i droga tam sie konczy). Teraz jestesmy w Tarfaya - to tutaj Antoine Saint-Exupery zatrzymywal sie wozac poczte z Tuluzy do Dakaru. Tutaj tez podobno napisal jedna ze swoich ksiazek :"Poczta na poludnie".( ukochane przeze mnie: "Maly Ksiaze"," Twierdza", "Ziemia planeta ludzi") . ... read more
W tej podrozy podoba mi sie to, ze ruszamy z miejsca dopiero gdy czujemy sie jak u siebie. Czyli poznajemy gdzie najtanszy chleboplacek, dobra mieta z absyntem(powaznie dodaja jakas zielenine ktora sie tak nazywa,wyglada jak koper) najlepsze placki z orzeszkami, jakies tanie jadlo, ludzie nas pozdrawiaja juz z widzenia i Imienia.CZyli gdy sie zasiedzimy... wtedy ruszamy dalej. Od paru dni lazimy slimaczym tempem po Al Ujunie. ZAdziwiala nas liczba wojska. Ciagla odnosze wrazaenie ze za chwile ma sie cos wydarzyc. Jak przed wielkim meczem.W niedziele trafilismy na demonstracje.Jeszcze wiecej policji i zolnierzy z jednej strony, a z drugiej mlodzi Saharyjczycy mowia o sobie Sahrawi wyspiewywali w zgrany, zorganizowany sposob swoje hasla. Podchodze do policjantow i pytam zaciekawionym (przyjaznym) glosikiem co sie dzieje, dlaczego oni krzycza o co chodzi.. Policjant zmierzyl mnie (jak z... read more
Jestesmy na Saharze:) Normalnie...Prawdziwa pustynia! Najprawdziwsza pustynia na swiecie!! Nie moge sie nadziwic jak taki potezny ogromny huczacy mokry ocean wali w brzeg tak poteznej ogromnej suchej spokojnej pustyni. I tak sobie Sa obok siebie, po prostu;) Przemierzylismy kawalek piasku, krajobraz pt. wiatr,piach i nic wiecej. I mijalismy znaki :uwaga na wielblady, a wielblady skulone miedzy krzakami sobie lezaly stadami. Autostop to najpewniejszy srodek lokomocji. Gdy wszystko zawiedzie,do busa Cie nie wpuszcza, grand taxi nie bierze, pociag nie istnieje wtedy zawsze jeszcze mozna lapac stopa.Nigdy nie wiesz dokad Cie zabierze i kiedy.W najgorszym wypadku sam sie zlapie;) Drugi raz zatrzymal nam sie (nie proszony o to ) mercedes, znowu okazalo sie ze kierowca jest policjant i tez z Casablanki. Stanowczo i energicznie zaprosil nas do wspolnej podrozy zapewniajac ze darmowo... read more
As there is no official border crossing on entry into the disputed Western Sahara, it’s difficult to tell exactly when you get there, there were a couple of giant camels in the middle of a military outpost which seemed likely, but everyone’s GPS suggested the border was in fact an empty patch of sand about 400metres further on... personally we preferred the camels. We had to be pretty careful in Western Sahara because only about 3 weeks before conflict had risen up again. The Sahrawi refugee camp had been broken up by the Moroccan authorities, with a dozen civillians killed in the process. Jeepers, best not to mess around with Moroccan military. The first town we stopped at was Layoune, which is a heavily military dominated town; the place was crawling with soldiers and training facilities, ... read more
Ok, Western Sahara, what did we know about this? Not much, besides that it's a disputed territory. Morocco claims it, while the local claim independence. It was quite 'peaceful' for quite some time, but just when we started to plan our crossing through Western Sahara, Moroccan security forces shot dead some local protestors... The cause of the shooting is still 'not' determined. Some say it was self defence, some say it was unnessary violence.... The border was closed for some time bt was open again when we wanted to cross, so from Nouadhibou went tracked on North... Danger, mines!!! So after our fish-feast night in Nouadhibou we took a bush taxi with 2 American and a French fellow travellers through the border up until Dakhla in the middle of Western Sahara. As it was Mauritanian independence ... read more
So Laayoune ended up being a great city at night Streets were full of people. Food and Coffee were cheap (3 course meal was about dollars? good coffee was 50 cents). Lots of fruit and amazingly colourful dressed people. And people didnt pester you trying to sell things for crazy prices. Sat on the bus today for almost 10 hours. Lots of checkpoints. I think 6, friendly police today, many smiles and hellos. Hopefully I can get some kind of ride to Mauritania tomorrow. Lots of camels here, maybe soon I will get to eat some of their meat and drink some of their milk. Still hating the french keyboards... I feel like i am learning to type again for the first time. ... read more
Casablanca to Rabat and into the Western Sahara
Published: July 2nd 2009Africa » Western Sahara » North » LaayouneWell: not too much exciting stuff has happened. Got my visa for Mauritania in Rabat after lots of politics. Had a good time in Rabat but then spent almost 24 hours in Transit to make my way to Laayoune in the Western Sahara. Didnt spend any time in Marrakesh as planned because I met a new travel companion who had already been there. I decided that it was more important to travel with someone into Mauritania then to see the tourist city of Morocco. There is a lot of desert here, a lot of camels, a lot of police checkpoints, etc. I think my updates will be much shorter if I have to deal with these french keyboards for much longer. Tomorrow is Dakhla and then Saturday is Mauritania.... read more
So I didn’t go to Laayoune after all, as I went straight through on the bus to Dakhla. It took 16+ hours and was uneventful except for the numerous police checkpoints. Also this fruit vendor, Abdullah, who bought me a yop and then asked to exchange phone numbers. I was suspicious, but his near illiteracy made me think he was just extremely nice, which he was. He gave me a bunch of photos of himself (odd?), and we are now brothers. I arrived at Dakhla at 5 am and found a crappy hotel around 7:30 am that let me check in so I slept until noon. Then I explored the city --- so many cops and military!!! Bought a sweet “Lawrence of Arabia” suit! Off to Nouadibou, Mauritania tomorrow. Actually in four hours as I have ... read more


































