Uganda and Rafting the Nile

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We have had a wonderful week in friendly Uganda. The terrorist bombings in Kampala a few days ago meant that there was plenty of security around in the form of young armed guards with AK-47s. We were searched before we went into the mall and the banks but on the whole things seemed pretty safe.

Matt had a terrible rash on his neck that looked like a severe burn so we decided to go to a doctor, our first doctor's visit since we left 9 months ago. There is a highly respected clinic in Kampala run by a British ex-pat, so we jumped on a boda boda (a motorbike which is far more convenient than a taxi as Kampalan traffic jams are atrocious) and were whisked away to the clinic. Boda bodas are fantastic and really cheap although their safety standards are pretty relaxed with no helmets and at least three people on them at a time!

In the end, despite our speculation that the rash was caused by an allergic reaction, it was actually caused by a insect called the Nairobi-eye, a nasty bug that excretes on the skin causing a chemical burn. It eventually heals after a week or so. The doctor had a specimen Nairobi-eye to show us, nasty looking little critter. Apparently any mzungu in this area would know the rash immediately.

We headed to Lake Bunyonyi (“place of many little birds”) a lovely lake (and the third deepest in the world) with 29 islands. We took a boat trip in a traditional dug out canoe for an hour and then walked through the countryside to visit the Batwa Pygmy village. The pygmy population has been completely marginalised, forcibly removed from the forest to allow for the protection of the gorillas and the creation of national parks. They are incredibly shy and extremely poor. While we were there they put on a dance performance and to be honest it was the least culturally sensitive and the most bizarre interaction that we have encountered. We were all quite pleased to leave and we were chased out with them asking for more money and throwing rocks. On the way back to the boat, children came from all directions yelling “how are yoooouuu?”asking for money, water bottles and pens.

Our trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park was a long day but fantastic. Out of control bush fires surrounded our camp overnight which quite frightening with some other overland groups evacuating and going on fire-watch, but the fire had completely died down by the morning.

We watched hippos cross the road on their way back to the water and our driver spotted some lions, two females and a couple of cubs. Being typical lions they just sat there while all the cars in the immediate vicinity came to watch. We saw plenty of buffalo and warthog as well.

The highlight was a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel. The shores were teeming with wildlife - the highest concentration of hippos, including babies, buffalo, crocodiles, warthog, elephants, African Fish Eagles and kingfishers.

Following that we went for a chimp walk down into the gorge. We walked passed pools of hippos and we could hear them growling. There are only 20 habituated chimps in the area and after an hour and a half they were tracked to the swamp. We were lucky to see one high up in the tree. He very kindly went to the toilet just as people passed underneath. As we were watching he swung down the tree and barged right through the middle of our group baring his teeth and looking ominous. They are far larger than we imagined but we all enjoyed the close encounter.

Our last stop in Uganda was Jinja, the adrenalin capital, so we decided to try white water rafting, the grade 5 rapids are some of the best in the world. A new dam that is in the process of the construction will pretty much ruin the awesome rapids so this was the prime opportunity. It was a fantastic day - the rapids were awesome. We paddled all day, sometimes there was 5 or 7km between rapids. The last rapid was called a “bad place” and it really lived up to its name. We have never been so scared in all our lives. We plunged right into the rapid and the raft surged forward and most people fell off at this stage. Matt, Orla and I managed to stay on while it pushed back to the rapid before a massive wave knocked Matt and I out. Orla somehow managed to stay in the raft which did not flip. She surfed the rapid the whole way, for about 45 terrifying seconds, apparently one of the only people ever to do so.

We got dumped in the waves and it seemed to take forever to pop up. We eventually came up for air only to be hit back down again. My helmet was ripped off and I was battered around for what felt like minutes although I am sure that it only lasted for a few seconds. The rapid was like a washing machine but it was awesome nonetheless and the DVD was hilarious - it showed the fear on our faces.

It's now back to Kenya to visit Hell's Gate National Park and the wildebeest migration in the Masai Mara.

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Comments

[Emma Niko]

Just caught up on all your happenings! AMAZING PHOTOS! Haydes and I are definitely investing in the new canon beast of a camera! You guys look so happy and I bet your having the time of your lives! Carry on throwing the photos our way love seeing what you are up to. Em xx