I might taste of the lotus and forget the way home....

Africa » Tunisia » Tunis
January 22nd 2008

Published: January 24th 2008


MatmataMatmata
Matmata

Berber woman in Troglodyte house

"....We landed in the country of the Lotus-Eaters, who live on a flowering food."



Homer:The Odyssey.






Tunisia was a gentle re-introduction to the African continent. It has good tourist infrastructure, an efficient public transport system and its people are friendly and helpful. After 6 months back in Britain earning some money, I'm traveling again. (See my last blog).



I had packed an Arabic phrase book, but found that I didn't need to use it. Everyone I spoke to in the last 2 weeks spoke French.



I flew out of Britain on the 7th of January arriving in Tunis late at night. I spent my first day visiting the Bardot Museum in Tunis and the second in the nearby suburb of Carthage.


Carthage




Carthage, which is only a short train ride from Tunis is now basically an upmarket suburb of Tunis. It was an ancient North African state that lasted from the 9th century BC to 146 BC. It later prospered under Roman rule.



I walked from my Hotel to the Marine train station. As I walked through the turnstile I noticed a young couple that were obviously tourists trying to talk to a Tunisian. There was a train on the platform. I wasn't sure if it was the correct train.



The young couple walked over towards the train but made no move to get onto it. I asked them if they were also going to Carthage. They didn't know if the train was going to Carthage - they hadn't understood the reply they had been given. So, I tried my luck. It seemed that it was the correct train.



During my stay in Tunisia I visited Tunis, Kairouan, Sousse, Gabes, Matmata, Sfax, and Djerba.



The Lotus Eaters




Djerba, famously claims to be the island of the Lotus Eaters in Homer's poem. It attracts a lot of tourists - although most of them stay in a strip of package tourist hotels, 10 km from the main town. I stayed in Houmt Souq, the main town in an hotel which had been converted from a traditional funduq.
Funduqs were lodging houses for the camel caravans during Ottoman times. The merchants stayed on the top floor, whilst the camels were lodged below. My funduq was beautiful. It had vaulted whitewashed ceilings, surrounding a courtyard with a swimming pool. I was particularly struck by the huge key for my room - it was longer than the palm of my hand and worked a lock mechanism that was suitably gigantic.




Stuart Morgan Hurlbut
... my purpose holds To sail beyond the sunset, and the baths Of all the western stars, until I die. It may be that the gulfs will wash us down; It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles, And see the great Achilles, whom we knew. Tho' much is taken, much abides; and tho' We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are,-- One equal temper of heroic hearts, Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield. (Alfred L... full info
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Following independence from France in 1956, President Habib BOURGUIBA established a strict one-party state. He dominated the country for 31 years, repressing Islamic fundamentalism and establishing rights for women unmatched by any other Arab nation...more info

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El-Ghriba Synagogue, DjerbaEl-Ghriba Synagogue, Djerba
El-Ghriba Synagogue, Djerba

This is the oldest Synagogue in North Africa
Sidi Bou SaidSidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is a small town near Tunis.
Sidi Bou SaidSidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is a small town near Tunis.
Amphitheatre of CarthageAmphitheatre of Carthage
Amphitheatre of Carthage

This was the 3rd largest Amphitheatre in the Roman world
Kairouan - Grande MosqueKairouan - Grande Mosque
Kairouan - Grande Mosque

Kairouan is an important city in Islam.
Kairouan - Hotel La KasbahKairouan - Hotel La Kasbah
Kairouan - Hotel La Kasbah

I stayed in this hotel - it was very good value for money
Matmata - inside a Troglodyte homeMatmata - inside a Troglodyte home
Matmata - inside a Troglodyte home

View from above the house into the central courtyard
Hotel Arischa, Djerba Hotel Arischa, Djerba
Hotel Arischa, Djerba

The funduq I stayed in.


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