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Published: July 19th 2005
Sunset diving Zanzibar
Just along from the open food market seemed to be the local spot for a show of divesAs I boarded the bus early in the morning in Nairobi I prepared myself for the scheduled 12 hour journey to Tanzania. Interesting sights along the way, but nothing to keep me awake for more than 20 minutes straight! Luckily I woke up in time for the border, for what should be a simple procedure of getting my visa. Should be! When I handed over the $50 U.S., the customs officer quickly smiled and stated he didn't have any change. I pointed out that I had seen the Kenyan in front of me receive his change. Amazing how the officer then said he'd ask his colleages if they might be able to scrape together the $20 owed back to me. 20 minutes later I boarded the bus with my transit visa and $20. No way is the only fight against corruption!! Bloody ironic that we then remained stuck at the border for a further 30 minutes with a flat tire!!
Having survived the 15 hour journey to Dar Es Salaam, I was slightly off track to discover my chosen hotel was full. Who wants to traipse the streets with a pack at night? The taxi driver was accomodating enough
White character
As some tourists I met complained about the Zanzibar government not spending enough money on restoring their buildings, I could only laugh. Such different judges of character in this world!!! to drive me to the next budget option. So I put the pack back in the car in order for him to reverse across the street. And then he parked. Can you believe it? An extra buck in the fare because of two drop off locations just a few feet apart!! I argued and made a scene, and then realized in my tired state I was fussing over one dollar. Don't sweat the small stuff right? It's easy to loose track I promise!
I wasn't really intending to spend a lot of time here, really just the starting point for a trip down to Zambia. After a well stretched out sleep I found a french coffee shop frequented by too many ex-pats. Once the caffeine flowed through my system I made my way to the train station to purchase a ticket departing in a few days. I then snagged a lift back into town with some young lads from the UK-and why not, "I'll join you at the local pub!!" Hhhhhhhhmmmmm, always interesting to check out where people drink. We walked down a few steps out of the sunshine and cought the sight of beer on tap. As
Monkey Crossing
I've seen many zebra crossings in my time, but this was a new one! the boys salivated whilst ordering their pints, I couldn't help but notice the other bar patrons-who more significantly couldn't help but notice the young lads!! As a female I'm not as clued in to picking out prostitutes in most areas, but it was pretty obvious here! The 'ladies at the bar' were sizing up and down and pruning themselves to be more appealing. I was so relieved that the lads just shrugged it off!! After a couple of beers I returned to the outside world. Walking the streets (NOT in THAT way!!) was an intriguing visual collage. I was back in a Muslim environment so the streets had many colourful dresses and spices to keep my senses alert. Despite the sights, I decided a few days spent here might bring my exploring nature to a boring standstill so I purchased a ferry ticket to Zanzibar. I've heard of this island before, but little did I know of the peace it would bring me.
I stepped off of the ferry in the early evening to be immediatly swamped by taxi touts. A couple is never really a problem, and I'll even stand my ground against a group of 10
Monkey Lunch
Didn't mean to interrupt, although he doesn't really seem bothered! or so. But I had not experienced as many as 20-30 before. One would grab my arm to inform me that the white hair'd guy will rip me off, and the youngest driver would take me somewhere more private. I was lucky enough to catch a lift with a Swedish couple that I had met on the ferry.
After settling into my hotel room, I began my walk into town. I was joined for dinner by the chef who had cooked my curry. He informed me that some nights could be a bit slow at this end of town and he was the only way to spice things up a bit! A quick conversation and he realized that I really did find my book more interesting than him so it was back to me, my book and my beer. Sadly I seem to be saying that a little too often these days!!
Events picked up for me the following day as I joined a 'Spice Tour'. Although my fingers are not as green as all of the gardeners in my family, I really enjoyed this tour. Sitting in the back of the pickup with the other
The locals
The jokes and smiles were a few moments before I managed to click tourists was a little gruelling on the spine, but soon enough I was identifying cinnamon and nutmeg and back to the simple pleasures in life. The smells as we walked through the maze of trees and shrubs were extremely uplifting. Lemongrass, ginger, cardamon, ylang ylang, and cloves were just a few of the highlights. Even the sudden showers of rain as I stood under the peppercorn vines contributed to the buzz of the morning. We saw 1/2 of my kitchen contents and then ventured on to the next part of the tour, the slave caves.
It is so difficult to comprehend how people could just be plucked from their families and stored in such entrapments prior to being 'purchased'. The holes that had been dug into the ground had been filled with 2 levels of people that had just inches of room above their heads and no light. Zanzibar was one of the biggest 'hiding posts' of slaves. As soon as I started reading the information boards, I felt overwhelmed by a sense of needing to know more. How could people be treated this way? How could others believe it was okay? The slave trading period was recent
Slave Cave
Very hard to comprehend how many lives were trapped in these underground holding spaces in terms of history. A quiet reflection overcame us all as we tried to absorb these actions. There was nothing to be said to comfort one another, and we moved on. I vowed to myself to read up and understand more of this time out of respect for the lives and souls lost to the greed of others.
The last stop on the day tour was towards a beach on the west coast. It wasn't as spectacular as the beaches on the East or North coasts, but as it was a chance to swim I was content. I couldn't figure out why the others in my group didn't run in as well, although the skies were a bit stormy. As I paddled and floated through the currents of the Indian Ocean I started speaking to the 2 other daring swimmers from another group. How proud was I to learn that Paulette was from Vancouver! So how many times can you say 'it's a small world' in one lifetime? And then Anita turned out to be catching the same train to Zambia in a few days. Swimming in new waters when ever you can certainly pays off!
The 'Lip Stick' plant
Learned a few local natural tricks for cosmetics whilst on the Spice Tour As I walked into town for a meal later in the evening, I bumped into Anita so I joined the gang of girls for a meal on the seafront. What fun it was to have a giggle and flirt with the waiter! The fact that he turned out to be gay only made the evening more entertaining.
The next day I signed up for a tour to the south coast beach of Kizimkazi where I was hoping to swim with dolphins. As I collected my flippers and snorkel and walked towards the boat my mind couldn't stop thinking of Flipper the Dolphin pulling me back to shore. Not concentrating on this walk through the shallow tides wasn't the smartest idea. I missed stepping on the deadly sea urchins by just a millimeter or so. Then I saw our boat. Although it was named Rambo, it didn't look so tough. Ah well, this is Zanzibar life now. When we far enough off the coast not to swim back, I noticed the full time bailing water motion of the skipper. Hhhmmm, hopefully Flipper really will want to take me the whole distance!! After a lot of searching the waters, we
Open Roads
Much smoother and greener than the Kenyan roads! joined a couple of other boats. A couple of dolphins had been spotted so I jumped in. Again, I was the only one from my boat in the water? Maybe I'm scaring them all off??? Anyways, I sorted out my mask and then looked straight down. Wwwoooooooooo, bit of a jolt to my system to see these smiling creatures just a few feet below me. I followed their actions with as much attention as possible then had to yell with excitement at the people still sitting in the boat. They'd seen nothing. Ha ha.
The evening was another relaxing meal with the girls in town, followed by a bit of retail therapy. Such a shame that I was having to leave the next morning. Zanzibar is a place that I will always suggest for people to see. It's interesting, friendly and safe and so very different to the rest of Eastern Africa.
The next day the Tazara train journey began in the early afternoon. It was a scheduled 2 day journey, of which we were guarenteed to arrive at the final destination of Kapiri Mposhi, in 5 days. Strange way to advertise train timekeeping eh? I
Rambo on shore
Setting off to swim with the dolphins met up with Anita at the train station. We chatted over a beer and plowed through our guidebooks reading about the sights to soon see. We then noticed the line in our guidebooks about getting our visa beforehand, not on the train. Oops. We boarded quickly hoping to deal with it later.
First class was a joy as the lounge areas were very comfortable, opposite to the comfort of my room that is. The 3 Zambian ladies that I shared my cabin with managed to fill every possible storage space. Luckily I didn't mind propping my feet on my bag as I slept. My new buddy Anita snuck into first class, slightly upsetting the staff as her ticket didn't really allow her to do this. (always always 1st class, it's only a few dollars difference!!) Anita offered to pay more money and buy more things as a true American citizen, and finally calmed the conductor down. The first delay of the journey was just after breakfast, still in Tanzania somewhere. It was time to break out the deck of cards with the new friends on the train. The games played started with polite consideration of rules and others
Solo boat in the big sea
Sometimes a lonely job being a fisherman! sitting within the carriage. And then the game of peanut poker was born. We were lucky enough to have a chap walking by the window several times selling a few bags. When we purchased half of his bowl on offer I think we might have made his month!! The next couple of hours I well and truely learned how to bluff my way to the biggest peanut pile possible. Laughter is such a good cure for train boredom!! We had become mates with fellow Canadians Chrissy and Adrian, and Brits Bryanny and Lyndsey.
The next adventure began at 4am when we arrived at the border. We had been told earlier on in the journey by train staff that Anita and myself wouldn't have too much trouble getting our visas. So, most of us slumbered off of the train to get our exit stamps on the Tanzanian side. In trying to save a bit of money I was planning on using my Canadian passport (cheaper for a Zambian Visa) instead of the British that I had been using to date. The Zambian customs officials then boarded the train and would be issuing our Visa whilst travelling across Zambia. Sounds
Homemade Dow
I used to be proud that I could fold and float my own boat, and then I saw what they manage here in Zanzibar! easy enough right? Hhmmpphh. That's what I thought. What an interesting start to Zambia!!
My few days in Tanzania were extremely good, the time far too short. Be ready for the next adventure!!
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Mom
non-member comment
Colobus monkeys are fascinating-great photo Fiona.I think I will have to join you when you return to Zanzibar, such fabulous beaches, and you know how much I like to swim. Mom