40 - 3

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Long march across to Mawenzi Tarn (14,206ft). Beautiful spot - tarn beneath the crumbling, rocky faces of Mawenzi. More rock-surfing keeps me from drifting off but I keep telling myself I must take this time - must be patient to allow for success on summit day. We head up to the ridge at 14,763ft for an acclimitisation walk. Many of the primates who are hiking with me are beginning to feel the strain - headaches, light-headedness, shortness of breath. The wanderer is blissfully unaware of any such inhibitions - the shoulders are feeling lighter by the day and air is getting thinner and fresher, the temperature dropping. This makes this goat feel alive.

Spend ages talking to the man-mountain chief guide about mountains, famous mountaineers he's hiked up here with who have gone on to achieve great things - makes my mind tingle to be back in the Himalaya.

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