Kilimanjaro

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Now as promised follows detailed description of a long walk uphill, followed by a very short walk up high and a shorter one downhill. I will also, and only for your benefit, throw in a relatively fast one at the very end, enjoy!

To begin our story we arrived in Moshi, the town at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro who lives and breathes because of the mountain. To summarize it short, if you ever feel like going on safari in the Serengeti/Ngorongoro area of Tanzania or climb Kilimanjaro, and if you don’t mind haggling, simply travel to Moshi and walk around because you’ll get offers thrown your way at every street corner. There is absolutely no need to make reservations in advance even if you want to start the next day.

Machame route (2012-02-15 to 2012-02-20)

Now to begin with the climbing, the beginning of which takes us from Machame gate upwards trough the natural reserve and park enveloping the entire mountain. Initial altitude was about 1800 meters above sea level and after walking three and a half hours through rainforest we arrived at the Machame camp which was the stop for today. At an altitude of 2829 meters above the sea we felt slightly disappointed since we expected to walk until our legs were shaking from exhaustion and you crawled into bed. Then after a dreamless sleep you’d wake up the next morning feeling like you’d been running five marathons yesterday, but still having to kick your body into movement. But from what we’ll soon see the following days walking will be rather short compared to what we expected. This also with some rather disappointed arguments from me and the sister’s uncle Olof who joined us for the attempt on Kilimanjaro summit.

Second day began with a chill morning, some frost in the grass were the sun had yet to strike. Started from camp at 07:30 am and walked until 11:00am when we reached the Shira camp (3837 meters altitude). The nature changed from rainforest to heat land with lots of lichens covering the trees and thick moist clouds rolling in to cover us for the latter parts of the day. But as you can imagine three and a half hours walking today as well and only 1000 meters of altitude gained left us feeling rather restless so after lunch we decided to walk upwards on our own. Got to 4100 meters above sea level before turning around, also visited the Shira 1 campsite used by Lemosho route after which me and the uncle went for a short run. This was the first time really felt something of the altitude because breathlessness hit almost instantly when trying too hard and the build up of lactic acid in the legs happened within five minutes of running. Anyway tried to sleep but the cold came creeping as the sun set and any decent rest was hard to come by.

Now on the third day of this walk/climb (yesterday actually required some hand gripping to pull over obstacles, but not much) we finally walked for almost six hours if you include lunch... The trail took us the same route as we walked up and down last day and continued up to lava tower at 4637 meters of altitude were we ingested a quick lunch before pushing on towards the next campsite located at 3976 meters above the sea so this was an acclimatization walk (however little...), as well as to test for early altitude sickness. Beautiful day though with strange nature, palm trees with frost insulation around the stems and glacial water streams.

Day four began with what’s called the breakfast wall climb which we started to climb at 07:45am, first out of the camp as every previous day. Maybe the other guys had better isolated sleeping bags or something because we were freezing too much to not get moving. Amazingly nice walk, with some actual climbing involved over paths that wore the wear of thousands of climber’s hands and feet. Kudos to the porters for climbing with al they carry on these steep paths. We also had a yelling competition with the porters from the other side of the gully just to have some fun, and also they started... This day provided lots up up’s and downs in the walking with the heath land gradually giving way to moor land. Walked past the Barafu campsite and decided it was too early for lunch (evidence we were rather quick since this place usually provides for a late lunch), so we pushed on another hour before stopping for food. Started to feel the altitude at this point, starting off with a moulding headache like from dehydration which didn’t disappear despite lots of water. Arrived at to the Baranco campsite at 13:00pm which was located 4673 meters above sea level. The wind started to increase at this point and during the evening and early night the hail came in and raged through the camp.

Time for the summit

And so for the last push. 1222 meters of altitude to gain over a distance of approximately six kilometres, minimum five hours required. Starting temperature was -10^oC and winds still throwing some hail hour way. Started from camp at 00:15am and from what we could tell there was maybe seven groups of people ahead of us. Walked rather fast and passed the first group within half an hour. Second group we passed needs special mentioning since they were maybe eight Americans, really cocky in their attitude “Yeah, come on guys, let’s push hard”. And also they had a radio which as we passed blared out the awful Katy Perry radio puke that you hoped never to hear again, and especially not on one of the most quiet and serene places in the world. Needles to say, we increased our walking speed, pushed passed and slowed down fifty meters ahead when the wind quenched their noise. Apart from this, noting special, the temperature didn’t change much but as we got higher winds increased since the shelter got fewer and farther between. We pushed relatively hard, mainly to keep warm and after two and a half hours we had passed the other groups and headed undisturbed up the cold blackness of the mountain. Our guide, Saumu, asked at a couple of occasions if we wanted to take a break. However the cold made me and the uncle shatter our teeth into saying no since that would only make us colder, the sister was probably the only one with enough clothing for the unexpected blizzard/storm that hit this night. Anyhow we got passed Stella point (5749meteres of altitude), frozen to the core and continued pushing towards Uhuru peak (the summit). Despite a throbbing headache on my part, due to the combined factors of altitude, tight hat and tight head torch (both of the latter were removed halfway through the night to get some relive that never rally came about, neither diamox or aspirin made it better, but possibly prevented it from getting unbearable...?) we reached the summit of 5985 meters above the sea at 04:55am. Crazy happy, dangerously cold and slightly distraught due to the fact that the sun was not due to rise until 05:30am we started running about taking pictures and keeping warm as much as was possible. However at 05:40am we started our decent despite not yet having seen the sun since it was covered by a mantle of clouds at the horizon. We got the sunrise when walking back along the rim of the crater and it was amazing. Despite the cold that was mind numbing the feeling was amazing. If you ever get a chance to get up here, don’t think just do it, the money and time spent is worth everything!

Anyhow now to the descent, not as fun to describe since it was mainly a transport towards the end of our stay here but some special things should be mentioned. The deep core body freezing sensation let go about mid day, when we had walked below 4000 meters of altitude, also the headache slowly diminished. The knees are sensitive to downhill walking, especially when doing it fast and without support so from 15:00pm I walked with knee supports, slowed down the pace and relied on my walking stick to offload some of the pressure put on the knees. Also what needs mentioning is the uncle, who rushed of the mountain, literally running down from the base camp to the gate in less than one day to catch a plane to get back to work. Never do I want to work that much that I can’t take six days of vacation in a row, other factors were off course in play here but still...

Stayed the last night in Mweka camp site and in the morning we got some nice singing done by the porters after the mandatory tipping had occurred. Including our guide they were eleven people who made this trip possible for us by carrying things, arranging food and shelter and providing us with the necessary guidance we needed. Might sound like a lot but the machine of getting up and down Kilimanjaro is larger than you can imagine. Also they know how to make money on Muzungus...

One last note concerning the cold of the mountain, upon writing this entry after nine days post finish. Three of my fingertips still can’t feel anything... This only to give you some idea of the cruel conditions we got hit by the last night with winds estimated up to 20 meters per second.

Anyhow in conclusion:

DO IT!!!



Finally we have arrived at the last walk that will be described in this entry. The classification as walk might depend but some might also call it a slow jog. The Kilimanjaro marathon (20120226) which was arranged for the tenth year was attempted. And the pre race prep was the most ultimate I have ever done which is actually the main reason why I got the slow time I did (yes that’s my excuse...). Don’t try this race preparation if you want to run a marathon. Don’t get diarrheic the day before, and also, eat some breakfast so that the first solid food you get down is not after 18 kilometres of running...

Anyhow to make this story short, lots of water, coca cola (a.k.a. fast sugar) and four bananas I finished after four hours fifty minutes or something like that. The results are not yet up so I don’t know the exact time. I was really happy though when I got a medal and t-shirt since these were only for the first four hundred runners making it across the finish. I never imagined I’d make it to get that so I beet myself across the chest and say “god job”. And also if you ever decide to run this race, bear in mind to save your energy because the first 18 kilometres are relatively easy with alternating up’s and down’s. However, at kilometre 19 or so the uphill starts and it doesn’t end until kilometre 32. Also a word of warning, running 10 kilometres downhill is much harder than you can imagine. Take care.



Now dear friends the physical activites will be diminished somewhat as me and my sore feet and legs will relax for some time in Dar es Salam, enjoying some nice relaxing beach time at Kipipeo beach. I will return in a while with news updates on whether the Rasta guys we met there two years ago still smoke the ganja...

And remember “Pole pole”

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Photos

The goal
some way to go...

Siblings
Feeling beautiful as always

The team
9porters one cook and one guide

jumping
Mandatory travel tradition instituted by the sister

Feeling cool
not cold!

The summit
ice cold, to the core...

Sunrise from crater rim
At last!

Coming down
shale sliding run race

We were there!
10 hours ago

Toilet
aim steady...

Bathroom view
I could live with this at home