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Published: October 27th 2006
Baoba tree
LAKE MANYARA - TANZANIAWe arrived in Arusha, Tanzania, and much to our surprise, when we got to the bus stop, there was a local holding up a sign with both our names. STRANGE! We hadn't booked anything, so why's this dodgey bugger got our details? We figured the guesthouse we stayed at after the last safari must've told someone about our arrival and tried to get to us straight off the bus to book more safari's with them. We weren't having it, so we steered well clear of him and made our own way to town to find accommodation. From the bus stop, we had about 3 guys follow us from the time we got off the bus, to various guesthouses, and finally to the one that we stayed at, to try and lure us into doing a safari with one of them. 2 of the guys even waited while we showered, relaxed and had a cold drink. We ended up booking with one of the guys and his was priced quite reasonably. So, the deal was a 2 day safari to Lake Manyana and Ngorongoro Crater, which is the huge crater left by a volcano unce upon a time.
So, the next
Baboons
LAKE MANYARA - TANZANIA morning we were up early, maybe a little too early thanks to the local mosque, and hit the road to Manyana. Within a few hours we were inside Lake Manyana NP on a game drive. The park itself was nice. Full of trees and plants. Nothing like the usual African savannah. There, we saw the usual culprites like antelopes, elephants, wilderbeest and so forth, but the ones that stood out the most were the huge troops of baboon's. They were in troops of over 100, and were all out for a walk together. it was an impressive sight, and similarly to the elephants, the large males were always at front and back watching over their extended family.
That night was a quiet one, and next morning we were up beforte the sun to get to Ngongoro Crater. The Crater itself is huge! About 30km's or so wide. I wouldn't have like to have been around when it blew it's lid. The crater floor has since been filled in and now supports a large variety of wildlife. Once again, saw all the usuals. Plenty of hyena's roaming around which were keeping all the animals on guard, and also saw a
Birds
LAKE MANYARA - TANZANIA dead elephant, which had keeled over earlier that morning, probably of old age. The vultures were making the most of it. Also saw a few lions roaming around aswell. After a full day in the crater,l we headed back to Arusha.
Next morning, as there wasn't a lot more to see around town, we caught the first bus to Mombasa. The ride was hell! They like packing people into buses in Africa, and this trip was no exception. Maybe 70 people or more on a bus that should carry 40! Doesn't make for a pleasant ride. We got to Mombasa and checken in to a guest house straight away. That night we ate quite well for the first time since Carnivores as Chris found a half decend Indian restaurant. Tandoori chicken was on the menu, and it was great! Unfortunately, no beers were on sale due to Ramadan. Bummer. Mombasa itself was a ok, but nothing great, although we only spent one day there so hardly enough time to scratch the surface. We checked out the fort, but only from the outside as entry prices were rediculously high, and tried finding the famous tusks of Mombasa, but couldn't see
Muddy Elephant
LAKE MANYARA - TANZANIA them anywhere. also, found a great shopping centre almost like the ones back home. We also bought a new home for ourselves in the shape of a 3 man tent! That night was a quiet one as we had to be up to catch the 6am bus to our next destination - Lamu, which is up on the Northern coast.
Well, we had no problems waking in time as the mosque, which sounded like it was right next door to us, likes to belt out its prayer music at 4am! so, once again, another long bus ride, then ferry, and we were in Lamu. Lamu is an island which has a huge Arab influence, Women dress in black and wear the Burka (Scarf) and men dress in white with a hat. They attend one of the many mosques many times a day. The island itself is much more relaxed that anywhere we've been so far. It felt like we stepped back in time a century or so! Donkey's were the main form of transport on land, and Dhow's (small sail boats) were used in the water. On Lamu, we pretty much just chilled out for a few days. We
Crater top view
NGORONGORO CRATER - TANZANIA did a fishing/snorkelling trip with 4 others on a Dhow out to a remote reef some distance out. Unfortunately, the fish we were catching were no bigger than our hands, although Antonella was quite satisfied to bring up the first fish of the day, which would've looked nicer in a fish tank than on a bbq. We caught about 9 fish all up, but they didn't last very long once barbequed as they were no bigger than the common sardine. The snorkelling was dismal to say the least! Murky water and dead coral. Certainly not what we were expecting. But we met some great people on the boat, so it was a fun day in the end. That night, we ate at one of the local's house, with a guy that calls himself 'Ali Hippy'. He's atleast 65, and would be the last person you'd pick as a hippy, especially in his typical Muslim outfit. However, photo's at his house did show a long-haired hippy-looking 30 year old bloke smoking some weed or something. He said it was him. It could've been anyone. None the less, the night was fun, or the hour that we were there, but i guess
it was a better experience that dining at a restaurant.
After Lamu, we headed back to Mombasa for a night, then onto Dar Es Salaam, where we were heading to Zanzibar. Dar was a pleasant surprise. we had a good feed, then even found a bar selling cold beer! It was the first beer we had had in a while. It was much enjoyed.
Next morning, we bought some stocks and a ferry ticket to ZANZIBAR... a paradise that has a lot to tell in another chapter....
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Para nuestra sorpresa cuando nos bajamos del bus en Arusha, Tanzania, habia una persona con un letrero con nuestros nombres. RARISIMO! No teniamos reserva alguna asi que no entendiamos como este fraudulento tenia nuestros datos y sabia que llegabamos!! Suponemos que fueron dateados por personas del ultimo hostal donde habiamos estado y querian agarrarnos a penas llegaramos a la estacion para que hicieramos mas safaris con ellos. Nos hicimos los tontos y cuando nos pregunbtaron dijimos que no eran nuestros nombres y buscamos alojamiento por nuestra cuenta. Pero 3 persistentes de diferentes empresas que ofrecian tours, nos siguieron todo el camino mientras cotizabamos y hasta que encontramos hostal. No
se movieron de la puerta del hostal, esperando mientras nosotros relajadamente tomamos una Ducha, cambio de ropa, relajarnos un rato y tomarnos algo frio. Se paso lo insistentes que pueden llegar a ser. Pero el que la sigue la consigue, y al final negociamos safari con uno de ellos. El trato era Lago Manyara y Crater Ngorongoro que la gran marca de una explocion volcanica.
Temprano a la manana siguiente, tal vez demasiado temprano por culpa de la mezquita del pueblo, la que nos levanto de un salto con los rezos por altoparlante, partimos al lago. El parque tiene mucha flora, lleno de arboles y plantas y muy lejos de la tipica savana africana. Ahi, vimos los residentes comunes como antilopes, elefantes, etc., pero lo que destaco fue la tremenda tropa de Baboons que vimos mientras migraban silenciosamente y en filas de cientos de ellos. Al igual que los elefantes , los dos Baboons (monos) mas grandes y viejos van uno adelante y el otro al final protegiendo la familia.
Al dia siguiente, antes que amaneciera partimos al crater que es gigante, alrededor de 30km de diametro. No hubiese sido agradable estar ahi cuando exploto. El crater florecio
Hyenas
NGORONGORO CRATER - TANZANIA y ahora posee una gran cantidad de animales. nuevamente, los mismos vistos en otros parques.
Las novedades fueron varias Hyenas aullando alrededor un elefante muerto al parecer por vejez, el que estaba siendo devorado por los buitres. Un par de leones cerraron el dia y de ahi vuelta al pueblo de Arusha.
Sin mucho que ver en el pueblo, tomamos el primer bus camino a MOMBASA, nuevamente en KENYA. El viaje fue un infierno!! . Esta no fue la excepcion a los viajes con exceso de pasajeros. Tal vez 70 o mas personas en un bus con capacidad para 40. Nada agradable, la gente encima tuyo, tambien en el suelo o 2 por silla mas la guagua en brazos y uno que otro bolso o canasto. Llegamos directo al hostal. Por primera vez , desde el restoran Carnivoro, comimos decentemente ya que Chris encontro un restorant de comida india. Desafortunadamente y como en casi todas partes, no vendian cervezas dado el mes de Ramadan que celebran los musulmanes.
Solo nos quedamos un dia en Mombasa, la ciudad esta bien, pero no pudimos ver mucho. El fuerte Jesus es una de sus mayores atracciones. Sin embargo nos perdimos
Hippos
NGORONGORO CRATER - TANZANIA los curnos gigantes que enmarcan la entrada principal de la ciudad.
Divisamos un Shopping centre de los buenos donde compramos nuestra casa propia en la forma de carpa para 3 (tienda de campana) la que se supone nos ayudara a ahorrar. Como de costumbre, durmiendo muy temprano para madrugar al dia seguiente y a las 6am tomamos el bus a LAMU, que es una isla al norte de Kenya. Nuevamente la Mezquita fue el despertador mucho antes de lo programado con unos gritos y chillidos que parecian broma!! Una vez en LAMU un bote sobrepoblado y casi hundido, nos cruzo hasta la Isla.
La isla tiene una tremenda influencia arabe, las mujeres vestidas de negro con la burca tapando la cara y los hombres de tunicas blancas con gorrito. La isla es el lugar mas relajado de los que hemos estado hasta ahora. No te acosan con ofertas de safaris y hostales,, solo te saludan y te gritan 'hermano(a)'. Pareciera que retrocediste un siglo, murallones gigantes construidos con corales y burros que son el principal medio de transporte en tierra y Dhow (botes a vela hechos a mano) se usan en el agua. Nos dedicamos a descansar y tuvimos
Male Lion
NGORONGORO CRATER - TANZANIA un dia de pesca y snorkling con un grupo de jovenes. Nos fuimos a un lugar remoto en un Dhow y como parte del paquete teniamos que pezcar nuestra propia comida. Antonella estaba feliz de agarrar el primer pescado del dia, pero desafortunadamente los peces eran chicos, del porte de la mano y hubiese sido mejor meterlos a un acuario que tirarlos a la parrilla. Al fianl agarramos 9 en total y no duraron ni alimentaron mucho. El snorkling desiluciono! agua sucia y corales muertos, ciertamente no como esperabamos! Sin embarco, la gente que conocimos en el bote fue lo mejor de todo y no paramos de reirnos.
Esa noche habiamos recibido una invitacion a comer en la casa de un local que se hacia llamar 'Ali el hippy'. 65 anos aprox y no tenia nada de hippy, especialmente por su tipica vestimenta musulmana. Pero, algunas fotos en su casa mostraban su pasado de pelo largo y fumando hierba o algo por el estilo. podria haber sido cualquier, pero el insistio en ser el mismo. A pesar de todo, la hora que estuvimos ahi fue diferente y creo que mejor experiencia a que comer en un restoran.
Despues
Forte Jesus
MOMBASA - KENYA de 5 dias en Lamu, volvimos a Mombasa por una noche y de ahi entramos nuevamente e TANZANIA, directo a DAR ES SALAAM, ciudad que nos sorprendio con buena comida y donde finalmente encontramos cerveza, la primera en muuucho tiempo!
Desde aca cruzamos por ferry hacia ZANZIBAR.... un paraiso que tiene mucho que contar en un proximo capitulo....
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