Lovely Lady Luck... This past month has been testament to the unpredictability of life. At any given time, one can never really know where you will be, what you will be doing, with whom, or what will befall you during any given event....... The following list is in no particular order:
1. Biking in Bagamoyo The decision to go to Bagamoyo, the original capital of German East Africa, was made about an hour before packing up and heading out the door (of course, after much waffling). After three rather unpleasantly long dalla dalla rides, we were settled in our romantic banda on the beach and ready to explore the area. The name comes from
“bwaga moyo,” which means “lay down your heart,” encompassing the despair that the slaves felt upon reaching the last port on the mainland. The area is exceptionally beautiful and has many interesting historical sites.
After indulging in yummy paella and lounging on the beach, we decided to get some exercise and bike to the Kaole Ruins. Now I wasn’t that eager to hop onto a bike after the Pangani debacle but was pleasantly surprised by the comfort level of the bike seat this time around.
The Girls Pre-MarathonNote that it is dark outside. Nan and Jennifer have been training for a half-marathon since the beginning of the year. Jessica, she's an athlete. Me... just plain foolish.
However, although more comfortable, it was definitely not more reliable……… About half way to the ruins, rather enthralled with the stunning view of the ocean from atop a bluff, I wasn’t that concerned when all of a sudden I was pedaling very quickly in a “low gear” …… I hopped off and as I watched Jessica become a distant figure, I realized that the chain had broken. After calling her back, Jessica and I confirmed that we did not have the number of the hotel and that we were a good way from either the ruins or the hotel. Luckily, a trio of very resourceful students were able to patch up the chain, using only a hammer, an old bike gear, and another broken chain (they also inflated the near flat tires…). At any rate, we made it to the ruins and back to the hotel without any further incident (despite the lack of rear brakes on Jessica’s bike…).
2. Clubbing For the first four months, I was under the impression that there was no nightlife in Dar. After many re-affirmations of this, I had resigned myself to no Palace/Whiskey escapades until returning to Calgary. Well… was I ever
WHY???Post-marathon me... not happy
wrong! Of course there is a nightlife here - you just have to know where, and
when, to go……unlike clubs back home, nothing starts to get busy until about 4am! Being quite a bit over the average age, a night out until 7am is not exactly conducive to productivity…………for an entire week!
3. Kitchen Party I was invited by one of my colleagues to a “kitchen party.” Upon asking for more information, she said,
“just ladies, will be fun.” Um… ok… Anticipating a tupper-ware party, it was with some apprehension that I agreed to attend, but upon arriving, was surprised by the peach and white fabric adorning every possible fixture in the courtyard. After speaking with some other guests, I realized that kitchen party = bridal shower, TZ-style, complete with much dancing and a speech on how to be a good wife (all in Kiswahili so no wisdom gained here - may have heard odd English word of
“obedient……” which I promptly chose to ignore)
4. Caribou Half Marathon Lulled into the happy state of drowsiness by lounging on the beautiful southern beaches, when Jessica said that she would like to run the Caribou Half Marathon the next
The Impunity ProtestAs you can tell, Jimmy, an American intern at LHRC, and I were straggling along behind the main group
morning, I foolishly said,
“sure, why not, how bad can it be.” Um……… what was I thinking? Reasons to have vehemently said
“NO WAY!!!” - Start time = 6:05am
- Weather conditions of hot and humid not exactly conducive to running
- Training, who needs to train to run a half-marathon? (hadn’t run since twisty-ankle fiasco)
- Twenty One Kilometres is NO joke
- Race route is NOT marked and I do not have the ability to read maps
- Purple toe is not exactly attractive (but is infinitely better than lack of toenail…)
After 2 hours and 26 minutes of running, getting miserably lost 3 times (21 kms +/- a few), one map disintegrating due to sweat, three unhappy toenails and missing all but 2 of the 7 water stations, I happily enjoyed a nice brunch at SeaCliff Hotel. (Note that Jessica left for an office trip the day after so did not have the pleasure of listening to me complain…)
5. Expat Moving Party (aka daiquiri-night) After watching an amateur production of Little Shop of Horrors, we headed over to one of Kenny’s friend’s moving party, which was awash with both expats (so many pale people!!!) and plentiful mango and passion daiquiris. Of course this was also unplanned………
Lechun Quintessential Filipino Party Food
but a very pleasantly sweet event.
6. Impunity Demonstration LHRC has been involved in the Serengeti case, which involves a group of villagers who were evicted from their village by government officials. Late last year the Commission for Human Rights and Good Governance determined that there were human rights violations and recommended that the villagers be compensated by the government. However, the AG recently gave a statement that they will not be following the Commission’s recommendations as the government conducted an independent investigation and found no human rights abuses. As LHRC was representing the villagers, the Centre hosted and organized several events to advocate and raise awareness, including a marching demonstration and a candle vigil. It was really interesting to be involved in the demonstration, where everyone was singing and chanting in time with drumming - we even managed to not get run over by the dalla dallas (courtesy of our police escort).
7. Chapati-Making Lesson Mmmmm…… chapatis! Heavenly, flaky, oily goodness for a mere 100 Tsh. After spending close to 1.5 hours making chapatis, the consensus is that such labour-intensive and time-consuming effort will not be repeated in the near future…… but many thanks to Dickens, one
of Jessica's colleagues, for showing us how to make a favorite breakfast food!
8. Philippine Independence Day Party Officially, Philippine Independence Day is celebrated on June 12 (1898), when General Emilio Aguinaldo proclaimed independence of the Philippines from the Spanish at Cavite el Viejo. However, there is some debate as to whether this is actually the correct day, as the Philippines continued to be under American power until July 4, 1946. At any rate, whatever the date, it is an excuse for all the Filipinos in DSM (more than you think - over 50) to get together and eat mass amounts of yummy food. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Filipino party without
lechun! 9. Walking Tour of DSM The Lonely Planet has a suggested itinerary for a walking tour of DSM but we decided to be creative and modify the route. Therefore, after a few false starts, we spent a good 5 hours wandering the streets of the city, luckily with a native Tanzanian (Noel), who not only kept us from getting lost but provided us with some history. Highlights of the tour include entering a Hindu temple, chasing peacocks through the Botanical Gardens, and munching on
Lunchie MunchieIt was literally freshly caught seafood. A man with a bucket would come by and dump the contents on to the none-too-clean wooden board. You point, he fries. Nothing survives boiling oil, right?
freshly caught squid and shrimp at the Kivukoni Fish Market. (Mental note - it is not necessary to go to the gym before going on a 5 hour walking tour.)
10. Apple Pie Craving good ol’ American comfort food, Jessica and I decided to return the favor and show Dickens how to bake apple pie. Despite use of the ingredient
fat spread (margarine, lard, Crisco, your guess……), the end result was a very yummy, sweet creation not to be found within the city limits of DSM. There are future plans to make another pie - this time to be made with butter, and to be enjoyed with vanilla ice cream…
Future random events??? Who knows - will keep you posted once I know myself!
Bagamoyo SunriseThis may look like a postcard but it's the view from our romantic little banda... So beautiful!
Tree PoseWe can't decide if the name of the tree is Mbuyu or Baobab but it's one huge tree (about 500 years old).
The Romantic BandaYup, fully made of red clay/mud and never mind that the washroom was a good hike away... check out that view!
Cheap Plastic GlassesEver since breaking my sunglasses when I banged my head against a tree, I've been on the hunt. Good thing these guys are everywhere - "you're always shopping in Dar"
Camel Rides Anyone?Noel, another one of Jessica's colleagues, our guide on the walking tour, was brave enough to ride the cantakerous camel. Note that this is where I was fooled into thinking running a half-marathon wo
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