Where disease stalks the land

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The average life expectancy for a Swazi is now 32 years old. Swaziland is a stable, affluent, and peaceful nation. So why are people dying at my age? Because of AIDS. Swaziland now has the highest infection rate in the world - a shocking 40+ percent. Why that is, I'm not quite sure, but it probably has something to do with the size and location of this tiny country. Sandwiched between Mozambique and South Africa, Swazi is about a quarter the size of Tasmania, and is home to a million people. Travellers and truck drivers pass through on their way to the large cities of Maputo, Johannesburg, and Durban, and polygamy is legal. The King himself has a number of wives, and over 200 siblings. In a small population, that means that everyone is having sex with everyone else. Which means AIDS can spread unchecked.

The statistics become more awful the more you study them. There are 200,000 kids in this lovely country who have lost a parent to the disease. In 2010, one-sixth of the population will be kids who have lost BOTH parents. Many families are struggling to feed themselves, as the disease tends to kill those at the height of their productive power - young adults.

Swaziland is an absolute monarchy, one of the few remaining, and the majority of the population revere the King, Mswati III, as the 'lion', the protector of the Swazi nation. When he tried to check the spread of the disease a few years ago by banning unmarried women from having sex for five years, he looked like he was doing something to stem the tide. Then he went and got himself a(nother) 18-year old wife, and thumbed his nose at his own efforts. It looks like Swazi traditions might have to change if the country is not to disappear demographically.

I wasn't quite sure how HIV/AIDS would present itself in such circumstances. Would there be young adults visible anywhere? Would everyone look sickly and thin? Would there be a paranoia about getting too close to other people? But, of course, like anywhere that is undergoing a traumatic situation, the Swazi people are just getting on with things as best they can. Yes, you see the odd scarily-thin person, and AIDS ribbons are ubiquitous; but most people you meet are healthy-looking, good-humoured, and busy living their lives. The worst cases are probably bed-ridden, or have already died, so on a lightning trip like ours, you won't be exposed to the true horrors. But there is definitely a vibe here, a feeling that something is not quite right.

Watching the BBC at our hostel last night, I realised it was World AIDS Day - an appropriate time to be here. There was a story on the news about three South African brothers, aged 4 to 14, who have been orphaned by the disease. The boys have no family left, no work, no money. One has HIV himself. they live in Kwazulu-Natal, just down the way from Swaziland. I'm sure such tragic tales are common around here; as a tourist, I just don't see them.

Swaziland has been a very pleasant surprise, apart from the HIV epidemic, of course. I haven't been to South Africa yet, but this is how I'd imagine it to be: shopping malls, posh cars, polite and friendly locals, supermarkets, and plenty of visible wealth. The country feels positively super-developed after the rest of sub-Saharan Africa. The car is King, as many people are rich enough to own a private vehicle, and some backpacker destinations are difficult to reach on the public transport network. Prices are comparable to Australia, perhaps a little cheaper if you really hunt out the bargains, but the Rand is powerful here, and everything seems to be imported from South Africa. There is a more easy-going feel to Swazi than Mozambique, and the cops don't hassle you, which is a bonus. The land is green and hilly, and quite beautiful in parts, and there are no potholes in the roads.

Dad and I headed straight for the Ezulwini Valley, which is a picturesque part of the country, right in between the two biggest cities, Mbabane and Manzini. Being so tiny, distances in Swazi are not great, and we were in the heart of the nation within two hours of crossing the border. Ezulwini is the epicentre of the tourist industry, as well as the headquarters of the royal family (and therefore the government), and there are quite a few hotels, shops, and sights to see. We really only had one place we wanted to visit - the small wildlife reserve at Mlilwane. We had heard you could hire bikes, and ride around in the company of the large herbivores at the park, and the idea of cycling past zebras appealed to us immensely.

So we got on our bikes, and rode into the park, and straight away we were blessed with some up-close-and-personal encounters with small herds of impala, nyala (stripey antelope thingy), wildebeest (gee, they're cool animals), and zebra, as well as a lone kudu and plenty of snuffling warthogs. the real highlight was stumbling upon two massive hippos, loudly munching on their serving of lunchtime grass, about a hundred metres away from us. After watching them feed for ten minutes, something startled them, and they galloped into the water, only to be replaced by a huge Nile crocodile, who popped out to sun himself on the bank.

Later we came across a mother warthog and her bubs, calmly feedi9ng by the edge of the road. Normally, pumbaas dart away at the slightest noise, tails erect as they escape from you. But this mummy one let me get really close - about two metres. And then she charged me. I was taking a photo at the time, and I just managed to back away without getting a warthog tusk in my ankle. The blurry shot that resulted can be seen on this blog.

Apart from riding around with the vegetarian mammals at Mlilwane, there wasn't much to divert us in Swaziland. We visited the capital, Mbabane, one day. Well, one half-day. It has to be the most boring capital city I have ever seen. 60,000 people, a few hills, and two shopping malls. We walked around both supermarkets, used the internet, and (naturally) checked out the second-hand clothes market, and it was still only lunchtime when we were done. Dad and I decided to have a Swazi experience for our midday meal, and so we went to the main butchery, bought some pork and fish, and then grabbed (from the same store) a plate of mealie pap (the local stodge), spinach and chili sauce, before throwing our meat onto a free BBQ right next door to the butcher's. Having a braai (BBQ) with the Mbabanians was a little more authentic than eating at the KFC down the road.

And next? Why, the Rainbow Nation itself - South Africa...

Tom's Top Three of Swaziland

1. The Swazi people. A little formal at times, but genuinely relaxed and proud of their tiny kingdom.

2. Mlilwane Reserve. Cycling along dirt roads, past wild herds of antelope, zebra (and even the occasional hippo) - just brilliant.

3. Having a braai. BBQ-ed meat, mealie pap, and peri-peri sauce: the Swazi way to eat.

Tom's Bottom Two of Swaziland

1. The ravages of HIV/AIDS. This tragic country is being decimated by the disease.

2. The car culture. I am sure that South Africa will be a shock after this, but public transport is rapidly becoming a more difficult way of moving around.


*****


Africa Country Count: 17

Swaziland Overland Kilometre Count: 300km

Africa Overland Kilometre Count: 30,765km

Next Country: South Africa

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Photos

Kudu calling
OK, I thought this was a kudu, but it's a male nyala. Nice-looking antelope, though...

On yer bike
Dad poses near a herd of zebra and wildebeest on his bike

Poaching victim
The skull of a rhino - minus his horn - the victim of Swazi poachers

Nyala
A female nyala browsing in Mlilwane reserve, Swaziland

Warty
This is the mother warthog who charged me about thirty seconds later...

Charge!
...and this is the picture I got as the warthog charged me...

Zebs
A few zebra enjoy the view at Mlilwane Reserve, Swaziland

Sad fact
This sign makes for stark reading - snaring is killing a lot of the wildlife in southern Africa

Braai guy
Dad does the honours at a local braai (BBQ) in Mbabane, Swaziland

Hungry hippos
Two hippos at Mlilwane having a munch

Comments

[Kate in Africa]

HIV/AIDS and polygamy
I am currently studying in Senegal, and we are taught in our university-level classes that polygamy is an effective way of keeping the number HIV/AIDS cases low. So far Senegal has been lucky, as their infection rate is very low, but it is terrible that polygamy is helping to destroy other countries. I really enjoy reading your blogs. :) Kate

[Nilesh]

Great Blog!
Very insightful as I prepare for my first trip to Africa (during the World Cup 2010). Thanks!