Drakensberg Mountains and Little Lesotho where I'm worth 12 cows and ate a mouse

Whether in the middle of South Africa or "on top of it" as they say because it's at a higher altitude, visiting the tiny country of Lesotho with its Sotho speaking Basotho people was a journey worth making even if there was no border control or customs agent to stamp my passport as proof.

The multi colored flat mountains, waist high grass filled hills and drastic difference in temperature between when the sun is shining and when it's behind a cloud instantly grabbed me, but it was the people that were the best part. "Thank you for coming to our country" one of the little girls told me.

The kids held our hands and we swung them up in the air. Others brought out a ball made of some unknown material to play soccer before they invited us for lunch: "papa" made out of corn flower and spinach with spice. This all culminated with a beer tasting that brought back memories of Mongolia's fermented mare's milk. Mmm! Ha!

As we took turns "enjoying" their beer, I later found out the village people offered my guide 12 cows to keep me. She demanded 20 and then they all laughed, but that's the way their barter society works.

As for their traditions and customs, see below:

For a boy to become a man so that he can have some value, get a job and marry, he must "go into the bush" for 6 months and survive.

Fortunately, these boys go in groups so they have some company when they're far away from home hunting, stealing and doing whatever they must do to survive.

When they come back, they are almost men. I say "almost" because they must be circumcised. "An uncircumcised boy is dirty because he has maggots trapped under there. Once circumcised, he is a clean man" usually at the painful and memorable age of 18 or older.

Once a man, he usually gets working in exchange for sheep. 5 sheep equals about 1 cow and within a few years he will have enough money to be able to provide for a family.

This is no arranged marriage society though. The woman has her choice unless she needs help. How it happens is that a woman usually chooses a man at one of their celebrations. If a couple can dance well together, they have chemistry and are meant to be because dance is central to their and most African societies.

Her friend then gets the message across to the guy "without her knowing" and gives him 3 days to show up in her town if he feels the same.

If he shows up, the next step is for him to start loosing things like a cow, dog or his trousers. The girl being the nice person that she is, offers to go help him "search" somewhere reasonable and private.

The guy can keep loosing stuff for 3 years and the girl can be helping a few men at a time find lost items because they are not yet together. They are only getting to know each other. Only when the guy starts offering things does that become an issue.

"Do you want some water?" he asks.

A no means she is not interested. A yes means its official and soon enough a ceremony happens letting everyone known they're together.

Then the children are born. The more the better for their rural ways.

They all live together in their round house which is round so that bad spirits have don't come in because they have no place to hide.

If an animal is slaughtered, a red flag goes up in front of their house. Too much cabbage or veggies means a green flag. If there's beer, it's a white or yellow one, all indicating "come over and have some or trade."

And that is a glance of the Basotho people of Lesotho who wear blankets (originally brought over by the British) as part of their traditional attire.

What better way to end the day than by eating a mouse as they do! Fried in butter and garlic and with a hint of lemon, everyone on my tour ended up doing it. The legs are better than chicken once you get over how tiny the drumstick is. As for the rest, I wasn't a fan of the liver taste and didn't consider it good enough to make me forget it was a mouse.


* I visited Leostho from my hostel in Northern Drakensberg. This (the Ampitheater Hostel) is definitely one of the nicest and best hostels I've stayed. It's straight in the middle of the Drakensberg mountains away from everything, and definitely a place I hope to one day return to. See pics.

---

---

---