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Published: November 12th 2008
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Today I’d booked myself a wine tour, one of the things I really wanted to do while in this part of the country. There was some initial confusion about getting me on the tour that had me stressed for a bit, but it got sorted, I joined the group and it was fantastic.
The first winery, in the Paarl region, was Fairview Estates. I took a look at the distillery, saw vats holding 50,000 litres of wine. But of course the feature is the tasting. Tried seven different wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage and Pinotage Viognier. They also had about a dozen different types of cheese (wow were they good!!), plus spreads, vinagrettes and bread. It was awesome. And it’s helped me clarify what wines I like. I’ve always known the tastes, but not always the names. So that’s been helpful.
It’s beautiful out here. Wineries are lovely. Something about the expansiveness, but the orderliness of the rows. There are also many wheat fields out here (and this country girl loves her wheat fields). And then there are still backdrops of mountains: the bouweld range (meaning interior land) and the Paarl Mountain. Paarl means pearl
Fairview Estates
The first of four tasting stops. and the mountain got it’s name because apparently when the sun hits it just so, it shines like a pearl.
The second winery we visited was the Backsberg Estates. There we samples the Aldorina, Viognier, Elbar and Klein Babylonstoren. They also make brandy there and we were given a sample of their 10 year old Sydney Back Brandy. I was nervous about the brandy. But the somelier showed us first how to properly small brandy. If you just smell from the glass, it gives an acidic burn in your nose. He had us dip our finger in, put a few drops on our thumb holding the glass, and smell the drops. He was right, to my surprise it smelled nice! Then we were shown how to taste the brandy so that it didn’t burn in that throat. Take a small sip, hold it in the front of your mouth, chew it for a moment, swallow, breathe air in through your teeth and out through your nose. So specific! But, gave it a try. No burning in my throat. Instead there was a firey feeling on the front of my tongue and around the inside of my lips. It didn’t
make me a brandy fan, but I tried! To finish up, we tried the Pinneau (far too sweet for my palette).
Backsberg was where we had lunch. Most of the lunch options contained my allergens, but one choice was ostrich, served with salad and potato. I figured, I can eat chicken and turkey, so another bird will likely be fine? We ate at a table laid out in the garden under big shady trees. First homemade bread - just as good as when I make it from scratch! The potatoes were light and tasty, the salad had fresh berries - yum! The ostrich was chewy and smokey. I didn’t dislike it, but I wouldn’t get it again. But tried that now too!
Lunch was also nice conversation. The others on the tour were nice. And it was interesting to listen to Robbie, our guide, and his personal thoughts about his country. He was born in South Africa, but his parents immigrated from Portugal. He’s spent years abroad and plans next to move to New Zealand. He loves Africa, but wants to move to “the first world”. In the books you read, the museums you visit and the general
A Lot of Wine
These Hold 50,000 Litres of Red Wine! word of mouth (that I’ve heard) is how great the country has been post-apartheid. (Aside from AIDS and poverty, both complex and different issues.) It was interesting to hear Robbie’s perspective on where the country is going wrong, why so many whites - and also educated elite blacks - are leaving the country and what needs to change to fix it from here. Just one opinion of course, but hearing the opinions are what help create a greater understanding.
After lunch, we moved on to the Stellenbosch area and the Beyerskloof Estate. Their lands also very pretty and inside the building was very modern decor. But we were the second group there and the other group was obviously serious buyers, not mere tourist tasters, so we didn’t get much attention. Regardless, we tried the Pinotage Rose Brut, Pinotage Rose, Chenin/Pinotage, Pinotage, Pinotage Reserve (they’re known for their Pinotage), the Cabernet/Merlot and the Field Blend. It became clearer and clearer to me that I do not like the sweet wines!
The final winery stop was at Villiera Estate. Robbie took us through the building to see where it’s all made. Then the final tastings: Tradition Brut Rose, Sauvignon Blanc,
Chenin Blanc, Pinotage and the Fired Earth Port. We were all saying how lovely more cheese tasting would be at this point. We’d had a LOT of wine! Which led to some fun conversation, lots of laughter and me feeling really sleepy. I like wine, but a lot of it only tires me. So I was okay to head back.
The drive into the city was lovely. As it came into view, clouds sat resting at the top of Table Mountain.
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