Cape Town

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So, arrived in Cape Town. Wow, what a culture shock! Cape Town is a modern, western city, and it's wet and cold (in comparison). Of the 9 days, there's been three days of great weather and 6 days of so-so. It's about 16 degrees for the most part.

While security is everywhere (fences, barbed wire, armed response signs, locked and barred storefronts with buzzers for entry) the city itself is safe during the day. You have to go out in pairs or take a taxi at night though. Even locals do.

I've spent a fair amount of time recovering and making friends here. The Backpack, the hostel I'm in, is expensive for a hostel but it's absolutely brilliant. Worth the extra money. While I've been here, I've seen the aquarium (great for a rainy day), taking the rotating gondola and walked across Table Mountain (one of the good weather days), camped out at Camps Beach (spectacular beaches here), and ate and drank way too much.

But the highlights have to have been the Great White Shark dive and a two day hike around Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope!

The sharks are out of Gansbaii, about a 2 hour drive from Cape Town. You don't scuba, just free dive, in a narrow but long tank. Seven divers are in it, and because I didn't get cold or seasick, I was able to watch the sharks for about three and a half hours non-stop. Absolutely incredible. The size and beauty of these creatures can't be described, and really should be seen. I know there are moral issues with shark diving (does attracting the shark make them associate humans and food?) but looking at how it was done (just tuna used, and not really chumming, and also a seal shaped decoy) I can't see how the shark would associate humans with the food. Perhaps the boat, but not people.

In any event, it was fantastic.

The two day hike was also great. I hired Kevin Matheson, an ex-pat Scot to guide me (although one really isn't needed). The park porters your bags to the cabin that you stay in (hot showers, gas rings, and a braii - Afrikaans for a BBQ, solar lighting and comfortable bunks) so you just have a day pack. Saw both Capes, and also went "swimming" at Cape MacLean, the traditional spot for people who have been to the Cape of Good Hope. Kevin was great - I learned more about the Cape than I thought possible, and the food was fantastic. It was nice to get out, and although I've lost some muscle mass, it wasn't too bad so I should be OK for Kili. We finished off by checking out the African penguins at Boulders beach, and then a wine tour. What a trip!

If you ever get a chance, go to Cape Town. There is so much to do. Just watch out for the snakes! ;-))

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Photos

Eland
A big antelope.

Cape of Good Hope
Doesn't look like much, huh? But it was magical.

Comments

[masao]

Shark bait
See - this is EXACTLY what I was talking about when I said I don't like going into deep water.... Those fish have BIG teeth! Sounds more like a resort than a hiking place!