Day 15: Wet, wet, wet!

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Last night, Jerry excelled himself on the camp fire and produced the most tender, red steak you could imagine. Served with cheese potatoes, salad and two bottles of Pinotage, it was probably the best meal of the trip so far.

Awoken by Maxwell at 06h00, I was still dreaming of the food. It had been a real pleasure to be back in the tent and I'd slept like a baby. Now it was time to get up, wash, dismantle the tent, pack the truck, eat breakfast and get on the road.

So proficient were we that we were leaving the Elephant Park 15 minutes ahead of schedule along some very bumpy roads indeed. Although the dawn had been beautiful, dark clouds were gathering to our right as we bounced along. To our left, the clear weather was putting up a brave fight and a superb rainbow arced across the horizon.

Eventually we reached Port Elizabeth, where we came off the minor road and re-joined the main N2. This was the road we'd originally used from Mkhuzi. Looking over PE, we could see cruise ships glistening on the Indian Ocean, though it wasn't to last.

Driving through scrub, rather than savannah, the sun lost the battle and the rain began to fall, gently at first. Passing shanty towns, their buildings painted in yellow, blue, green, orange and white, provided colour to the otherwise drab journey. Soon, those houses were replaced by more expensive properties, nestling into the sand dunes along the coast. White horses blew from the waves as they crashed into the coastal defences lining the motorway - a sign of what was to come.

With the expensive properties behind us, container ports and flour mills filled our vista. Soon though, we'd even left those behind and, as the sun came out, we reached trees and hills, gorges and grass.

At 09h00, we arrived in Jeffrey's Bay, our shopping stop. Whilst the guides went off to stock up on food, I popped into a book shop and managed to find a map of Namibia and a photographic reference guide to the birds of Southern Africa. It was reduced in price, so I guess you could say that it was going cheep?

Shopping loaded, we headed off down to the beach. Technically, the surfing capital of South Africa, it came as no surprise that the wind was strong. Sand was blowing offshore whilst two surfers attempted to ride the waves, battling the white horses. After some time wandering about the beach taking photographs, I went to get a cup of coffee and returned to the bus.

Rejoining the motoring, the rain started coming down in sheets and the trees started coming down to the motorway; after all, this is almost the Garden Route. Although we were now driving through forest, the heavy rain and misted up windows made it difficult to appreciate the view.

Finally, at 12h00, we pulled into a service station at Storms River Bridge. Reputedly one of the most spectacular service stations in South Africa, I wandered, as instructed, out along the motorway to stand on the bridge overlooking the gorge. Suffice to say, my fear of heights got the better of me and I simply had a pleasant walk without taking in anything of the breathtaking views!

Back in the bus, we rejoined the motorway and just as quickly pulled off to look at a Big Tree. This 800 year old tree was situated at the end of a rather wet 500m walk and reminded me of the Kauri trees in New Zealand, where similar walks were set up to view the trees.

Back at the bus, we set off yet again and, again, shortly after, pulled into the Storms River Mouth Camp Site. The rain was coming down in sheets again and my fellow Dutch travellers requested an upgrade to a house, rather than a tent. I think it took about 20 minutes to get the necessary approvals from the tour company, but they did manage it in the end.

Arriving at the camp site, the rain stopped, just as the bus came to a halt. Whilst the Dutch Trio went off to their brick accommodation, quickly, the rest of us erected three tents in the wind and secured them, for the first time, with tent pegs. Timing was perfect as, just as the rain covers went on, the heavens opened again! All the time, the waves crashed on the rocks just yards from the tents.

Deciding that it was pointless trying to prepare lunch in the open air, Jerry took everything round to the house where, some minutes later, we all gathered for lunch.

With the weather a little improved, we hopped into the bus and drove the short distance to the camp shop. The rain started again, so rather than taking a walk, we had coffee. After coffee, with no excuses left, we set off along the Storms River mouth for a walk to the suspension bridge across the river. It was easy walking although I didn't take the camera simply because of the weather. Thankfully, it was the right decision as we got thoroughly soaked, even walking under the trees. The views into the ocean were made all the more exciting by crashing breakers although, to be fair, wildlife was a little scarce! However, I was in my element - rain lashing down, wind blowing, wet hair, dressed for the weather - I was very very happy!!!

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