My second home

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"You are from Britain. You are welcome. You are my brother. This is your second home!"

Abdul (also known as Little King Kong).

Somaliland (Somali: Soomaaliland) is a de facto independent republic located in the Horn of Africa. The Republic of Somaliland considers itself to be the successor state of the former British Somaliland protectorate, which had an area of about 176,210 square kilometres (68,040 sq mi), which became independent on June 26, 1960, and united with Italian Somaliland five days later to form the Somali Republic. On May 18, 1991, the people of Somaliland declared independence from Somalia. However, it was not recognized by any other country or international organization

. (Wikipedia)




I was made to feel welcome in Somaliland, even if I sometimes felt like the centre of attention. Walking down the streets of Hargeisa everyone said "Hello". I remember a woman who was wearing a head scarf shout, "Hello, how are you?", from the window of a bus.



I flew into Hargeisa from Djibouti - the plane looked like it should have been in a museum. There was old, dirty, cheap carpet stuck to the walls of the plane and I spent the 40 mins of the flight with my fingers in my ears because of the very loud noise from the engines. Although putting my fingers in my ears couldn't stop the vibration - even without the noise I could feel the engines.



At the airport in Hargeisa I was met by someone from the Hotel Ambassador who had organised my Visa for me. Although, Somaliland has no diplomatic representation anywhere in the world you still need a Visa to enter.



The Hotel Ambassador is the most upmarket hotel in Hargeisa - it cost me $US40 a night. It always has a collection of Toyota Land-cruisers inside its enclosure, often white ones with the letters UN on the side. Its a really nice hotel with a high speed broadband wireless Internet connection. So, I was finally able to update the Sudan blog, which had been impossible in Ethiopia or Djibouti. I was pleasantly surprised by the telecommunications system in Somaliland. I saw cell phones everywhere and the cost of making calls was the cheapest I've found anywhere in the world.

Las Geel

Soon after arriving in Hargeisa I had a stroke of luck. I was asking at the reception about organising a trip to Las Geel which is a highlight of any trip to Somaliland. The caves at Las Geel were only discovered in 2003. Within these caves which are about 50km from the capital are hundreds of perfectly preserved Neolithic paintings. Anywhere else in the world Las Geel would be swamped with tourists. The Hotel reception told me that I would have to organise a permit to visit and hire a vehicle and soldiers as guards. But as I was talking someone walking past intervened. His name was Tom. It seemed he was going to Las Geel that afternoon. He had a permit for 2 people but the person who was going with him couldn't. So, Tom asked me if I would like to take the second place in his car. How could I refuse?



When we got to Las Geel I was amazed. The paintings are so well preserved I was gob smacked. They looked as if they had been painted yesterday.




My second day in Hargeisa I took the local bus into the city centre from outside the compound of the Hotel Ambassador. The Hotel Ambassador is near the airport 4km from the city centre. I had a lot more difficulty though finding a bus back to the hotel. So, I asked around. A kind man led me across the city centre to the correct bus station, and found a seat for me on the correct bus. He then to my complete surprise gave me the bus fare. He not only didn't ask for anything for his help, but gave me money!

Hotel Oriental

After 3 nights in the Ambassador I moved to the Hotel Oriental in the city centre which only charged $US15 a night. Not as flash as the Ambassador but it was still a very nice hotel. The owner of the hotel is well travelled and has worked abroad. Back in 1991 at the end of the war with Southern Somalia his hotel was just rubble. He has rebuilt the hotel from his own savings. I asked him why no one will recognise Somaliland. He told me he thinks its because they are African - if Somaliland was in Europe like the Balkans it might be a very different story. The Somalilanders voted for separation from Somalia. If the UN tried to re-unite Somaliland with Somalia it would be a disaster. There are too many bad memories. Hargeisa was totally destroyed during the war with the South. Over 50,000 were killed during the bombing of the city. The city was bombed by the government of Somalia from the nearby airport, 5km from the city centre. The same airport that I used to enter the country. At the end of the war nothing was left standing. The Government of Somalia bombed the city back to the stone age. One of the Russian Mig fighters used to destroy the city is now a major landmark in the city centre. Everything in the city has been re-built from scratch without international assistance. Hargeisa now has one of the best telecommunication systems I've found in Africa - with several competing telecommunication companies.




Hareisa is not pretty but it is lively and I found its people very friendly and welcoming.




At the hotel Oriental I organised a trip to the port of Berbera. I was told that I needed to hire a soldier to travel outside of Hargeisa. It was very likely I would be turned back if I didn't hire a soldier as a guard. The cost of hiring a soldier was $US20 a day. Most of Somaliland is not dangerous, except near the border with Puntland. In fact Hargeisa must be one of the safest cities in the world. Theft is almost unknown. But in 2003 'terrorists' from Mogadishu illegally entered Somaliland and shot several aid workers. So, the authorities in Somaliland are over protective of foreigners because they do not want the country to lose its credibility internationally, which would harm their campaign for international recognition.




So, the owner of the Hotel Oriental organised a car for me and a soldier as an official guard. The driver of my car was Abdul (little King Kong) and the soldier was Mohammed. Abdul spoke good English and also acted as my guide. Abdul charged $US60 a day and Mohammed costs me $US20 a day. Abdul told me that his grandfather fought in the British army during the second world war.

Berbera

The trip to Berbera which is the principal port of Somaliland was interesting. The beach just outside the city is amazing and diving experts who have been to Somaliland say that the diving sites off the coast are some of the best in the world. All totally undeveloped.



Whilst I was in Berbera I was introduced to the Berbera Community Concern Group. The chairman is Jamac Abdilaah Aadan, tel. [phone], email [e-mail].



I was also given a tour of the University of Berbera, College of Fisheries and Maritime Studies by the academic staff. They are keen to make contact with academic institutions overseas. They have had to rebuild from scratch. They are in desperate need of donations of equipment and books. I have a list on a file on my computer of all the equipment they need. Most of the donations they have received so far have come from the Somalilander diaspora. If anyone is interested I can email a copy of the file - which also explains the vision of the University. Either contact me or the University direct:


For more information contact


Ahmed Abdulahi Yasir

The University Dean

[e-mail]

Tel. : [phone]

Berbera - Somaliland


Or


Mr. Kombo Mghanga George

[e-mail]

Mobile: [phone]

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Photos

Hargeisa
This is one of the Russian Mig fighters that bombed the city during the war against the South of Somalia. The whole city was reduced to rubble and over 50,000 people died in the city during that war.

On the beach...Berbera
In the foreground is Abdul (Little King Kong) my driver. In the background is Mohammed, the soldier I had to hire to travel outside of the capital city Hargeisa.

My friends in Berbera
On the left is my driver, Abdul (little King Kong). The other two are members of Berbera Community Concern Group.
Chairman: Jamac Abdilaah Aadan and Suleiman Abdulali Mohamed. If anyone wants to help with the groups work in Berbera I have their phone numbers and email addresses.

On the road from Hargeisa to Berbera
Next to the tank is Mohammed the soldier I had to hire to travel outside of Hargeisa.

Moscow, Berbera
These flat were built by the Russians when Somalia was an ally of the Russians during the Cold War.

One of the buildings that hasn't been rebuilt in Berbera
The whole of the city looked like this at the end of the war with Southern Somalia

A 1,000 year old building in Berbera
My driver told me that this building in Berbera is one thousand years old.

Comments

[Stubrucam]

Amazing!
What an amazing trip! I really admire your courage and curiosity in going to somewhere most people have never heard of, let alone been. I have read a little about Somaliland and agree that it is mad that a functioning state- unlike the basketcase to the south- can't get recognition. Maybe some day.

[Dan Savident]

Safe to travel?
Hi, I read this blog with great interest. My Uncle is buried in the war cemetery in Hargesia. He was with the RAF in WW2 fighting 'U' boats in the Indian Ocean. My Mother was 21 years his junior and 5 when he died. She is now 70 and although we have researched his service and the events surrouding his death, we have yet to visit his final resting place. It has long been an ambition to take my Mother. I gues my question is do you think it is safe and what would be the best way of approaching such a trip. Thanks Dan

[Stuart]

Hargeisa is safe!
Hargeisa is safe. I believe it may be possible to get a Visa in the UK. The information I found on the internet said that you can get a Visa from: SOMALILAND MISSION MR ADAM MUSSE JIBRIL 102 Cavel Street London E1 2JA UNITED KINGDOM Mobile:[phone] Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone] Email: [e-mail] If that's not possible then hotels will arrange a Visa for you. You send them a scanned copy of your passport - they arrange the Visa for you, which you pay for and pick up at the airport, on arrival. The Hotel Ambassador is the best hotel in the city at $US40 a night. Otherwise I would recommend the Oriental Hotel in the city centre. The number I found for the Hotel Oriental is 2514999, or 8289296. You will need to add the international code to that number. I also don't know if that number is correct - it is just a number I found on the internet. I suggest you do some research yourself if that number is not correct. You can contact the Hotel Ambassador directly on their website. If you look at the text of my blog you will see the Hotel Ambassador highlighted. Click on that link and it will take you directly to the Hotel Ambassador's website. You may want to ring the Hotel Oriental or Ambassador to discuss your intended journey. They will both be very helpful. In terms of getting to Somaliland, the cheapest way is via Djibouti or Dubai. All the best. I know that the people of Somaliland will welcome you.

[Fiona]

Hargeisa really is safe
Hi! Great to see your blog. I wrote my thesis on Somaliland and their legal case for independence and spent some time there a couple of years ago doing research. The people really are incredibly receptive and kind. Hoping to go back for the elections this year!

[David Munnings]

S/Sgt Harold J Munnings..R.E.M.E.
My brother also rests in the War Cemetry he died in December 1945. Any photographs would be appreciated,

['Aafi]

Somaliland is safe
Thanks Stuart, just to let you know that I really enjoyed reading your trip to Somaliland, which is my native country, though I now live in the UK. The man who paid for your bus fare was simply doing the Somali guest honoring, it has roots in the nomadic tradition.

[suleyman hussein omar kujog]

My grandfather
hey I just want you to add that the satue that was on the road from beerbera and hargisa is a tribut to my grandfather Omar kjuog how was one of the solders in the war.

[edward milner]

Hargeisa just after the war
Great blog! Well done. I was in Hargeisa in 1993 when the place was still in ruins, but the people were so friendly and helpful that I really enjoyed my trip. I also went to Berbera and Erigaavo and made a short report for Channel Four News. I can't understand why the international community can't recognise the Republic; it's one of the (few) success stories in Africa.

[Stacey]

S/Sgt Harold J. Munnings R.E.M.E.
Great blog entry Stuart, I enjoyed it. I was in Somaliland earlier this year and loved every bit of it. @David Munnings, I don't know if you still visit this blog, but I'm going back to Somaliland next year. Is your brother burried in the War Cemetary of Hargeisa? I could send you some pictures, but I don't have your emailaddress. You can contact me on [e-mail] Stacey