Easter in the Casamance


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Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Cap Skirring
March 23rd 2008
Saved: November 30th 2021
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Ile de GoréeIle de GoréeIle de Gorée

View of the island from the ferry.
Yoff was a little disappointing for us, the beach was filthy and we were constantly hassled to sit in people's shade compounds on the beach. We left after one day and decided to pick up our passports with our Malian visas and head straight to Ile de Goree, south of Dakar.

Ile de Goree is a short 20 minute ferry from Dakar and is a world away from the big city. It is a tiny island that can be walked end to end in less than hour, at a stroll. There are no cars on the island (yay!) which is a delightful change. We arrived in the early afternoon and just after we checked in, Peter started feeling ill. Peter doesn't get ill very often, so this was very unusual, and I knew quite bad. We were very lucky to get a room on the cool ground floor of the hotel with a fan that actually worked, and our own bathroom. It was dark and quiet, so Peter spent pretty much one whole day in bed, with a bad stomach, fever and aches and pains. Poor guy, I felt very bad for him. Lucky it was a short-lived illness and he was already on the mend the next afternoon. It did mean that we didn't swim at the little beach, or eat any extravagant meals, but we did enjoy the island very much. It is a very pretty island, brightly coloured buildings, brilliant flowers, lots of stone architecture. The history is another story and not pretty at all. Ile de Goree was a slaving station in the 18th and 19th centuries. We visted the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) and it is a very sobering experience. Above the door that led slaves onto the ships they have placed a sign that reads something like: "the start of a journey with no return". It is a door that opens right out to the ocean and the next stop was the Americas. There was an estimated 20 million people taken from Africa during the slave trade and only about 1/2 of these survived the journeys. It is a very humbling experience to learn of the atrocities of the slave trade. I guess we humans have been commiting atrocities against one another for a long time, and it shows no signs of abating even now.

We took the ferry back to
House of SlavesHouse of SlavesHouse of Slaves

The doorway that led slaves to the waiting ships.
Dakar on Friday afternoon and went directly to an adjacent dock to purchase tickets for the ferry from Dakar to Ziguinchor, in the Casamance region of southern Senegal. The ferry leaves at 8 pm from Dakar and arrives in Ziguinchor (pronounced zig-an-shor) at 10 am the following day. The ferry we were on was brand new - it was beautiful - apparently it was only the 4th voyage for this ship. On the boat we ran into Marty from Alberta again (he had serenaded us with "Gordon Lightfoot" in Mauritania). The crossing was uneventful as we slept through most of it. We arrived into Ziguinchor and decided to head straight to Cap Skirring on the coast for the famed beaches.

Cap Skirring - The first hostel we stopped at wanted to charge us 50 dollars a night. This was out of our budget, especially for a very basic room. We moved onto "The Paradise" hostel next door, and are very happy to be paying 14 dollars a night. We are right on the beach here, and the beach is beautiful! Finally, a clean stretch of beach that we can swim in! Yay! Happy Easter to us! While the places
House of Slaves MuseumHouse of Slaves MuseumHouse of Slaves Museum

This case shows the shackles used to transport slaves.
to stay are very inexpensive, they get you with the food! Ah, you have to pay somewhere right?
There is a Club Med just down the beach from us here - it is so strange to us, yet if we think of Mexico or Cuba, it's probably very similar. Besides the beach chairs and the boats, the only real difference is that Club Med doesn't have to share the beach with cows. Okay, there are probably other big differences, but this is all we will allow ourselves.
We spent 3 glorious days swimming in the Atlantic Ocean, drinking rosé wine and wandering the expansive beach.

Next stop is Kafountine in Northern Casamance and then onto the Gambia.



Additional photos below
Photos: 11, Displayed: 11


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The Busy Dakar Port The Busy Dakar Port
The Busy Dakar Port

The Dakar Port was still very busy as our Casamance ferry was preparing to leave around 8 pm.
The FerryThe Ferry
The Ferry

And such a lovely ferry it was!
Cap Skirring - SenegalCap Skirring - Senegal
Cap Skirring - Senegal

The cows were very gracious. They didn't mind sharing the beach with us and they looked after our stuff while we were in the water.
View From The Paradise HostelView From The Paradise Hostel
View From The Paradise Hostel

This is the view fom the restaurant patio at Le Paradise.


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25th March 2008

Happy Easter
It seems you have finally had a bit of a vacation during your travels! What a wonder full adventure for both of you. I have enjoyed reading through your blog and catching up to your news. (I'm home today with a cold and too fuzzy headed to work.) Take care :) PS Its spring time in Alberta
25th March 2008

Finally!
I'm caught up with your trip! And what a trip it is turning out to be! I love that you stay as long as you want where you want! No hurry to get to the next stop. Hope your Easter was wonderful!
26th March 2008

The beach looks beautiful....even with the cows!
Hey you two!!! Your photos and blog are fabulous! Wishing I could drop in for a visit....just a short one... to say hi, have a glass of wine....ahhhh would be nice!! I will have to be patient, and am anxiously awaiting the slideshow when you guys are back! Well, must run.....miss you both so much and very happy to see that you are having so much fun!!!! Lots of love, Pam PS Could you give each other a big hug with a big squeeze... from me!! Thx.
26th March 2008

wow 14.00 bucks a night i wish
thats awesome 14.00 per night wow Bahamas was a rip off then LOL Miss you guys we went for Indian last night and said wow wonder what Peter and Laini are eating tonight, bet they would have liked to come with us Oh well maybe next time they will be back and can come with us!!!
26th March 2008

Dreaming of Indian Food
You have no idea how much we would have liked to be with you for Indian Food!! At home we are definitely spoiled with the variety of food options. Here, not so much. We are not starving though, I'm sure you can see that in the photos!
26th March 2008

Hugs Back Attcha!
Thanks for the note Pam. Hope you had a wonderful Easter! We would love to have you stop in for a visit, anytime!! Please give Dave, Emily and Jessica big hugs from us too! pnl
26th March 2008

Hello
We're so glad to hear that you are enjoying our blog and photos! Thanks for taking the time to send a note, we really appreciate it. The postcard is via snail mail, and from Africa it could mean about 3 weeks, or when ever it gets there. All the best in your move and new job, keep us posted on how things go! Lots of love, Peter and Laini

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