Gisenyi days 12-13

---

It took just 1.5 hours to reach Gisenyi, which is Rwanda's version of a seaside resort, (just like being back in Blackpool:-). They are not on the cost but they do have the beautiful Lake Kivu - a freshwater lake. I was supposed to be in Gisenyi for one night as I was to depart for the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) the next day - best laid plans though.

I stayed at the Auberge de Gisenyi which is the place in the town, it is packed with diners every day and the buffet is always busy, especially for 1,500 RWF - my plate was always overflowing with the usual, chips, platain, rice and beans and some chilli sauce for good measure.

As a price comparison a 750ml bottle of Primus, the best beer in Rwanda in my opinion is 800RWF around 1 pound - woohoo.

As soon as I arrived I had a walk down to the lake for sunset, and I wasn't alone, thousands of huge bats were flittering through the palm trees at the shore's edge.

I had been in contact with Hakuna Matata tours in Gisenyi for months about arranging a trip to climb up Nyiragongo volcano. This is an active volcano 3,500 metres high with a lava lake in its crater. Once you get to the top you sleep in a tent in near freezing temperatures and then head back down the next day.

The next day I loaded up my day with loads of warm clothing and went to meet Kennedy who I have been conversing (kinda) with for the past 2 months.

When I arrived at his house, as opposed to an office he started to talk about politics and what good guys George Bush and Tony Blair was, especially because of the war, this being a pet subject of mine I soon pointed out the error of his logic:-) Anyway after this exchange he drops the bombshell that he is already to start the trek the next day - WTF, I had been E-mailing him the previous night and he never mentioned any of this. He said that the tourism office in Congo had cancelled the permit to climb the volcano (this turned out to be a lie as I spoke to the guy in charge in Goma (Congo) and he said that Kennedy had applied for the permit too late in the day - even though I had given him 4 days notice.

I was furious with him and told him so - bloody George Bush eh!! Anyway I told him where to go and headed back to the Auberge. I then had a dilemma in front of me should I wait another day - or just nip in to Goma for a brief visit - I settled on the latter.

Whilst I was waiting to get my visa at the border a very attractive French lady turned up and we got chatting, she worked for a NGO looking after the Gorillas in the DRC. The border guards thought I was her boyfriend as I have the same surname as he does, in fact he has the same name as my father - spooky!. I cheekily asked her for a lift into Goma and I explained my problems with the permit and said I wasn't going to bother. Anyway she had done the climb and said it was amazing and that I would be crazy not to do it now that I was here. I've always been a sucker for beautiful woman so this was enough to change my mind and she drove me to the ICCN office and helped me get a permit for the next day. It's a nightmare to get a permit normally you have to make a deposit at the BIC (on the way in to Goma) get a receipt and then take it to the offices. Sounds easy but it means numerous boda-boda rides plus more crossing of the border and US$35 Visas. Thankfully he let me off (just this once) and I gave him the money directly (he wasn't happy though).

Goma was a war zone and looked like it - the majority of vehicles were either from the UN or an aid organisation. And one of the largest UN bases in the world is just on its outskirts by the airport.

I had given up going with a tour so I decided to do get to and from the start of the trek by myself - from the looks I got from the UN guards and the locals this probably wasn't done often!!

So that was my plans all changed and so I get a boda-boda back into Gisenyi where I spent the night with some medical students - I must have had a good time I woke mp with my first hangover of the hols.

Boring Bits
Visa into DRC - $35
Visa back into Rwanda - for UK Nationals - free
Volcano climbing permit $200.
Don't use Hakuna Matata tours

---