Out and About in Kigali


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Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali
August 2nd 2009
Published: August 2nd 2009
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This little guy was hanging out in my bathtub for a few days. I tried to catch him and put him outside, but he was too fast. After the cleaning woman came Friday, I went to look for him and he was gone! I was very sad, but he appeared later, still in the bathroom, but with a much shorter tail! I tried to catch and release him again, but he's just too fast!
I have successfully completed my first weekend in Kigali!

On Friday night I went to see the new Star Trek movie at the American Embassy with two people from FHI. There’s no movie theater in Kigali, but the embassy shows films once in a while. We had to pass through a metal detector and have our bags searched before we could enter the main compound. You could take in cell phones, but not cameras. The movie was shown in the conference room of the main building and we paid 2000 RWF (about $4) for a ticket. Beer cost $1.50 and the popcorn was free. The movie was OK and, although I’m not a Star Trek fan, it’s surprising how many famous lines and characters I knew. The new Captain Kirk was hot! I did get a bit confused over all of the time travel and who was where when. When Future Spock met Current Spock, I was really lost because I thought the time-space continuum would implode if you met your future self. Oh, well… it was still fun.

On Saturday morning I went to the Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center. The center was opened in April 2004
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

The fountain in front of the museum with Kigali in the background
on the 10th anniversary of the genocide. There are exhibits inside about the genocide with a special section showing the stories of some of the children who did not survive. There’s another exhibit on different genocides throughout history. One exhibit shows skulls and bones from some of the victims with the intention to prevent anyone from ever denying the genocide. The memorial is well done and the stories told are compelling and emotional. It is difficult to comprehend the horror and the total lack of world response. There are videos of survivors sharing their experience and these are intense.

Outside the center there are memorial gardens and many mass graves. Gisozi is the burial site of over 250,000 people killed in the three month period starting in April 1994. As additional victim remains are discovered, they are brought to Gisozi for burial. Work has started on a wall of names that will eventually list thousands of the victims names.

After the Memorial, I went to the Gahaya Links, a women’s co-op where handicrafts, especially sweet grass baskets and bowls, are made. It was lunchtime so the ladies were not working, but I did a bit of shopping. The co-op sells to Macy’s so I’m curious to look at their web site in September to compare prices. The baskets are not cheap here, but I’m sure they are much more at home. The woman who runs the center is currently designing a bracelet for Oprah! I saw the prototype and the finished product is suppoed to be in the October issue of O magazine.

After this, the driver wanted to go to the Rwandan Expo, an annual even that was a mix of retailer and commercial exhibitors. There were high end electronics, furniture sellers, banks, people selling crafts and food, especially cheese and honey as well as wine made from bananas, pineapples, and guavas. There was also clothing for sale from different parts of Africa. There are was also a guy demoing the Super Slicer! I looked for the Cham-Wow, but no luck.

On Saturday night I went to dinner with Jessica. We ate at Sol e Lune, an Itlain restaurant with a nice view of Kigali. We sat outside (very common here) and had dinner and a bottle of wine. It was a relaxing evening.

On Sunday I walked around quite a bit. I first
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

Mass graves containing over 250,000 genocide victims
walked to the Nyabovongo Mosque to see it and the beautiful view of the Kigali valley along the way. I then headed back toward the center of town and past the Gorilla Roundabout, the closest it seems I’ll get to gorillas this trip! I walked past the Place de l'Unite National, a large park with a fountain right in the center of town. I went to the Hotel des Mille Collines, featured in the 2005 movie “Hotel Rwanda”, and had a very nice lunch in their outdoor restaurant. The weather here is perfect - cool in the morning and evenings then sunny and about 80F in the day.

After lunch, I walked home to relax and get ready for another week of work. The movie “Ghost” is on TV at the moment so I’m watching that. Patrick Swayze looks so young and healthy! There are a number of American TV shows on here, including “The Office”, “30 Rock” , “ER”, “Law & Order”, “Without a Trace”, and “Ellen”. I have the BBC and CNN so I can keep up with the news. I also have the Hallmark
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

Many people bring offerings of flowers to Gisozi, leaving them on the graves. This grave has a glass window with white and purple clothes inside. There is a large purple cross on one of the lace clothes.
Channel, the National Geographic channel and two English channels that should TV shows and movies. My internet connection varies between good and really slow, but I’m lucky to have it in the apartment. I have seen a few internet cafes around, but I hear they are slow. I have a cell phone that works well except in the apartment - I have to stick my head out an open window or go outside to be able to talk.







Additional photos below
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Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

As new victim remains are located, they are brought to Gisozi for burial. The new mass grave can be seen in this photo, lower center.
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

Names of some of the genocide victims on the wall surrounding the mass graves
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education CenterGisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center
Gisozi Genocide Memorial and Education Center

A beautiuful flower in front of a mass grave - quite a contrast
KigaliKigali
Kigali

The Nyabovongo Mosque is on the far left
Lunch at Hotel des Milles CollinesLunch at Hotel des Milles Collines
Lunch at Hotel des Milles Collines

Goat kabobs, chips, steamed vegetables, and a $5 Diet Coke, my first in over a week!


2nd August 2009

GREAT first wkend-TONS accomplished
I will get with you when you return but wanted to shoot a quick "hello". I'm aware that a bunch of others are doing the same and as you stated net connection is "good" at best! I wanted to say thank you for sharing your adventures and the photos... especially ones that connect us to the day to day operations.... ie purchasing food, $5.00 cokes, and even your unofficial cold blooded "pet" you were "hiding" in your bath :) !!! The Gisozi memorial and education center HAD to have been exhausting... though it seems they are doing all they can for proper burrial (now and in the future-- sad to say) and its amazing that part of the memorial has to remind and/or convince folks that this tragic event even occurred. Just amazing this sort of thing continues in our midst in our continuum of civilization! On a lighter note... the expo sounded quite interesting and inspirational ... you have given us something to look for in an upcoming O mag-- you just KNOW it will be a hit here in the USA... if that woman gave stock pics...you'd have a run on the mkt! I'll have to depend upon you or one of your friends to let me know the markup on the goods you catch at Macy's! The kiosks with the demonstrators cracked me up.... say what you want, but those folks actually make a heck of a living I'm told. Say... if you do have a chance to send a note.... when are you back in town? Good luck this upcoming week.... sounds like you have much ground to cover ea week with the folks at FHI!! Thanks again Nancy!
10th August 2009

Sci Fi
Getting a quiet moment to catch up with your blogs. And of all the great things you're seeing, I just have to tell you that I laughed over your "Star Trek" comment. Sci-fi is just not your thing - lol. I can just see you puzzling over the space time continuum. LOL. Off to read more of your blog posts.

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