Nigeria- Kano motorcycle rally


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Africa » Nigeria
September 14th 2006
Published: September 14th 2006
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Well, Nigeria has without a doubt been the most anti-climactic destination on my trip so far, as it is not even remotely dangerous in any way, and corruption has yet to affect me in any way. Driving through the country though did remind me of "Baby Police", as every few miles police officers stopped the car and collected money without saying anything. I was thinking about the Nigerian police academy and what their curriculum must look like "How to Collect Money" or "How to maximize pocket space to fit the greatest number of bills inside" seems to be all they are expert about. A few of them bothered me, but most were just very enthusiastic, welcoming me and excited to meet and American.
I was expecting the full shakedown at the border, but everyone was just very kind. As I was filling out my paper work, the police chief said "Is that how they teach you to write in America?" I assumed he was going to insult my penmanship as that sometimes gives police a thrill of power, but he said instead, sincerely "It's beautiful. You must be a very intelligent man." In the vaccination office they the health officer started yelling because I didn't have a meningitis vaccination, I assumed he was going to want money, but I simply said that the Nigerian embassy told me I didn't need it, and then he got friendlier. He looked at my birthdate and said "You are only twenty? That's too small!" and then laughed and I left. The car broke down a lot on the way, and every passer by smiled, waved, and said 'Hello!'. The other occupants of the car bought me snacks and drinks without asking me and refused to let me take any other than the best seat in the car. When I got to, Kano, the third biggest city, it became clear that the chaos factor is as great in urban Nigeria as anywhere. It reminds me of other African cities, but more intense, more energetic, but also very friendly. People had told me in Niger not to go out after dark in the cities in Nigeria, but I got lost as the sun went down and I asked people and they said that it is fine, that it is not dangerous. So I walked around in the dark and the most dangerous thing was mud puddles and overly friendly people. Nobody seems too surprised to see me here, I think that contrary to popular opinion, many tourists come here. I saw several foreigners already, and there seems to be a fair Syrian population. I think people think I am Syrian because of the way I dress and the shade of my skin now. I am just surprised how little people take notice of me, even vendors don't make any particular effort to sell me things, and no one has made even the slightest effort to overcharge me for anything.
I wish that I could say I was adventurous for coming to Nigeria but it is not more difficult or dangerous than any where else so far, but it has only been three days now in the country. The police are everywhere, with their ironic and ridiculous motto "To Serve and Protect with Integrity!" The food is Englishly bad here, the baguettes have again disappeared. Travelling in Nigeria is really a joy. Here in the city the pollution is incredible- imagine putting your face in a truck exhaust pipe all the time. After going for a walk I feel like I've smoked two packs of cigarettes. I also just came down with a cold. I am staying at the guest house of the Evangelical Church of West Africa. It is a good value, in spite of the strange bible verses and sayings written on the wall- like "Our God is a mighty God- IN BATTLE!" There is an incredible market here, the market alone is bigger than most cities. I've never seen so many fabrics. It is easy to get lost here but no matter where I wander there are friendly people around to help me find the way. It's interesting religiously here as Sharia Islamic law is officially in effect yet there is also a huge Christian population, and while I sense a bit of tension people seem to get along well enough.
I am heading soon to a town called Jos(acronym for Jesus our Saviour, yes thats the name of the town.) Hopefully the cooler climate will be good for my cold.
Nigeria is booming economically compared to Niger. Construction projects everywhere, middle class people, nice cars. Oil money, I guess. Of course there is still a lot of poverty and I think security is an issue but not so much for tourists, rather for expats who work for oil companies who can be ransomed or people who have stuff to steal, like cars. No one seems interested in me. I think I'll steer clear of Port Harcourt, though, where most of the kidnappings take place.
I ride around a lot on motorcycles, as Kano is very pedestrian unfriendly(crossing the street here is the biggest adventure I've had yet in Africa, crossing eight lanes of speeding trucks and motorcyles with goats and vendors running around) so I kind of have the same emotional sensation from being in Nigeria that I get from snowboarding, which is pretty fun, but it keeps me pretty tense, definitely not a good place to come for a relaxing vacation. I am going to try to go to a park though, that seems like it might be accessible for wildlife viewing for people who have no money, like me. That should be some relaxation. So I will go for now but off to Jos afterward.

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23rd November 2006

Whao
"I ride around a lot on motorcycles, as Kano is very pedestrian unfriendly(crossing the street here is the biggest adventure I've had yet in Africa, crossing eight lanes of speeding trucks and motorcyles with goats and vendors running around) so I kind of have the same emotional sensation from being in Nigeria that I get from snowboarding, which is pretty fun, but it keeps me pretty tense, definitely not a good place to come for a relaxing vacation." one of the best comments I have seen on my country. Thank you.

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